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#1
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I set out to build a 4wd RC10 using era correct parts and yet keep the parts easy to find. You can perform this conversion with only a handful of special parts- the front noseplate, bumper, towers, pullies, and belt. The rest is kyosho optima steering and front axles (870c would also fit), and a spare stealth trans. I know there are more efficient ways, better transmissions now, etc but it was important to me to keep this as era correct as possible. Nothing modern.
This is the prototype and mainly just shows how I got to the end. It currently is a runner, although I will be selling it soon to finance the making of the specialty parts needed to make a conversion available. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I played around with the front tower today, as I wasn't a fan of the look it had going. This mimics the A&L style tower or worlds tower a little closer. Opinions? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And a very short video. This is with an ancient 27 turn stock motor and 6 cell pack http://youtu.be/Aypz4LFsswM |
#2
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And heres the original 4wd conversion http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=21641
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#4
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I'm quite familiar with the mip conversions, if this all works out the parts needed to convert one will be about what a couple of Mipit pulleys run nowadays. Everything MIP 4-10 is so expensive.
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#5
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Yep, that's if you can find a full kit, probably quite hard to source now
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#7
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Nice, wish id kept my cf mip rc10 4wd. What id be interested in would be an RC10b5m conversion.
__________________
www.kamtec.co.uk www.fibre-lyte.co.uk answer-rc.com/uk/en/ Answer UK team driver Designer of the Lazer ZX/ZXR carbon fibre tub chassis Designer of the Lazer ZXRS |
#8
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I like the creativity of your solution and the very clean execution.
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#9
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Thanks for all the replies. I was surprised in how well it ran (there is a short video of it on the street). Using just a standard 27 turn brushed stock motor it doesn't feel bad at all! Peppy and corners well especially considering how little time I put into suspension tuning.
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#10
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Nice job!
![]() I do think you need to address the area where the belt slightly touches the battery holder, in my opinion is too close and it seems it will slowly wear both the battery strap and the belt itself with normal use. You could make a custom servo mount in aluminum with a simple ball bearing that it would create the gap needed, just took one of your pics and made a simple drawing on how it could be done. Just my two cents ![]() |
#11
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It looks closer than it is. That is the tight side of the belt, so if anything it tensions except under deceleration. I know it looks close in the pics but it's a lot higher than the MIP setup running off the idler
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#12
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Brilliant, I'll buy one of your conversions!
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#13
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