XX-4 Steering Issues

[Robfo]

Well i ran the xx-4 for the second time out at Worksop yesterday and all the car wanted to do was understeer everywhere, i'm sure my xxx-cr could have gone up the inside of the 4wd at all the hairpins easily!

This is the setup i ran:
Front
Toe - 0
Ackerman - Outer with Draglink – 3mm
Ride Height – Chassis Level with Rear
Camber - -1
Caster - Stock
Sway Bar - No
Oil - 40wt
Piston - Orange
Spring – Silver – 1.5 coils
Front Diff - One-Way
Clicker Setting - Locked
Drive Shafts - Aluminium CVD
Shock Location – 2 - Inside
Limiters - Internal Spring - Outside None
Camber link – 2
Washers - 0


Rear
Toe-In - 3 inboard (std)
Anti-Squat - High Pin
Ride height - Driveshafts Level
Camber - -1
Diff - Plastic (with Trinity savers)
Drive shafts - Steel Dogbones
Sway bar - No
Oil - 35wt
Piston - Blue
Spring - Red
Shock Location – 3 - Inside
Limiters - 1x A washer Inside - 1x B washer Outside
Hub Spacing - Middle
Camber link - 8C
Battery Placement - Forward

Blatantly stolen from Tom out of the setup thread.

What do people recommend for more steering and better rotation around the tight corners?
I did try a rear roll bar for the last qualifier and final but it made little to no difference.

Cheers

[ashleyb4]

I would put the draglink back to std, drop 5wt oil all round and try your front camber link at the longest position. I tried the whole shorter drag link but preffer std. Have you filled the hub carrier down where the ball stud mounts to lower it i didnt used to but tried it earlier this year and i liked it.

A

[Southwell]

There is a new steering link which you can buy which gives you major steering. http://www.xfactoryrc.com/storeESpeed.htm

Are you braking into the corners? If your carrying too much speed you will understeer no matter what you do. With a one way this may make the back end snap quite aggressively, in that case i would run a diff.

[Robfo]

ah thats a good point, i am running that exact setup other that the fact it's not got a one way in only the clicker set really loosely.

Yeah i was breaking into the hairpins it was the only way to get the back end moving.

I think i'll have to have a look at getting the x factory steering part i heard about it before but not got round to getting one yet, that's another thing for the shopping list! Does it really make alot of difference?

[_sleigh_]

If you need to get the rear end to pivot a little more then you could try lengthening the rear camber-link. Try moving the inner ball-stud in and up to hole 5.

[Southwell]

I ran the new link at the f3's and it pivotted a lot, but not so much it was uncontrollable.

[tyreman]

Originally Posted by ashleyb4

I would put the draglink back to std, drop 5wt oil all round and try your front camber link at the longest position. I tried the whole shorter drag link but preffer std. Have you filled the hub carrier down where the ball stud mounts to lower it i didnt used to but tried it earlier this year and i liked it.

A

Ashley

Making the front camber link longer will make the car very safe, and not produce the lively-ness he wants from the front end, cutting the caster block flush will also reduce the aggressivness of the front, by raising the ball stud you will get more initial steering into the corner.

[Fiddybux]

Originally Posted by tyreman

Ashley

Making the front camber link longer will make the car very safe, and not produce the lively-ness he wants from the front end, cutting the caster block flush will also reduce the aggressivness of the front, by raising the ball stud you will get more initial steering into the corner.

Thanks for clearing that up tyreman! I was going to go for the washers under the ball stud anyway, but its nice to have some clarity.

[SHY]

"The meaning of life is a picture of Christopher Walken building Optimus Prime."

-is this from a movie or what"???

[Kopite]

is it not Pulp Fiction, when Christopher Walken is talking to Bruce Willis (or Bruce Willis' character when he was an infant?)