DEX210: Alternatives for Low Roll Center/LRC

[Origineelreclamebord]

Hi everyone,

Lately I've been looking at a low roll center modification for the DEX210 as that should aid rear traction - not a bad thing considering I drive mine in mid-motor on low bite dirt and clay. However, the parts from RDRP are very expensive though - and the ones from Tresrey and Durango don't allow for 0 degrees of anti-squat without modding the (!&@ out of an RF hanger.

So, alternative options might be:
1. A second hand set of RDRP hangers.
2. Machining 2mm off the standard Durango hangers.
3. Asking a company like Cream RC to consider producing LRC rear hangers.
4. 3D Printing a set of LRC hangers (likely not as durable as alu though).
5. Using parts off DEX210 clones.

The last one caught my interest. The Proken S1 parts might work and look as if it may indeed have a lower roll center. The Intech ER-12's rear suspension user different hangers altogether (more distance between inner rear hinge pins), which funnily enough seems to be a mod that the DEX210 proto at the Worlds has - and I recall so does the X6 line of cars (the X-6^2's I've driven had tremendous rear traction and always seem to lean on their outside rear wheel a lot - so it seems an interesting difference to try out in my situation).

So... does anyone have an Intech ER-12 and/or a Proken S1, a set of calipers and a few minutes of time to check the measurements? Or suggestions what other parts may fit?

[rcjunky]

The proken looks the same but from what I've seen everything is different. I think shaving the RR block and using shims there will be your best bet.

[Jonny5]

Durango has a -2mm LRC hanger available for the Type B chassis sets. I machined an original TD RR hanger to accept the new Type B motor guard quite a while ago when I received a few of the proto Type B chassis. Very helpful mod to gain rear bite and give the back end a more stable feel.

[Origineelreclamebord]

Originally Posted by Jonny5

Durango has a -2mm LRC hanger available for the Type B chassis sets. I machined an original TD RR hanger to accept the new Type B motor guard quite a while ago when I received a few of the proto Type B chassis. Very helpful mod to gain rear bite and give the back end a more stable feel.

I saw that, and good to hear it helps However, Durango doesn't seem to offer RF hangers that can give 0 degrees of anti squat combined with the RR hanger... and I don't have any machining equipment to do an accurate job myself to make a -2mm plastic or metal RF hanger. So are you running 3 deg at all times, or have you found another way to get 0 deg. anti-squat with the LRC RR hanger?

Edit: With minor dremeling, one could also put the original RR hanger upside down, which puts the mounting point 2.5mm lower on the rear - which only leaves the RF hanger to be lowered (For a 2mm lower mount, one could do a bit of dremeling on it and shim the block upward from under the hanger). I've got an idea for a 3D printed RF hanger that might work with this to achieve proper anti-squat adjustability.

[dex210Nick]

what is it about the lrc blocks that makes them better/different than adding shims under the ballstud to lower the roll center?

[Origineelreclamebord]

Originally Posted by dex210Nick

what is it about the lrc blocks that makes them better/different than adding shims under the ballstud to lower the roll center?

A angled link (which is lower on the inside) not only adds grip, I'm told it also reduces the tendency to roll compared to a link that's parallel to the suspension arm. Also, look at this image (taken from http://users.telenet.be/elvo/) carefully, and you'll see lowering the upper link on the inside actually makes the roll center higher:


As far as my understanding goes, it works like this: The roll is caused by a torque: The force caused by the shifting weight times the distance (arm) between the sprung mass and the roll center. This mass has the center of gravity (CoG), and there will be a distance between that and the roll center. The amount of distance is one of the ways to play with the amount of body roll (because it works as an arm in the torque formula).

The roll center (of most cars) seems to be lower than the center of gravity. Therefor a higher roll center (closer to CoG) will reduce body roll, and a lower one (further from CoG) will increase body roll.

Increasing body roll increases sideways bite on the car. This is beneficial in low traction conditions to make the rear end feel safe and planted, so you can floor the throttle earlier and more. In high traction conditions you don't want that much body roll, in fact you often are trying to reduce it to prevent the car's tendency to grip roll. Also, the reduced body roll may make the car respond quicker to changing direction.

If you look at the posted image again, you can see that lowering the inside pivot points of the lower suspension arm will lower the roll center. That why a LRC conversion will add rear grip to the DEX210 without playing with strange upper link positions

Mind you, this is my understanding of how it works. If I'm wrong please tell me

[Jonny5]

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord

I saw that, and good to hear it helps However, Durango doesn't seem to offer RF hangers that can give 0 degrees of anti squat combined with the RR hanger... and I don't have any machining equipment to do an accurate job myself to make a -2mm plastic or metal RF hanger. So are you running 3 deg at all times, or have you found another way to get 0 deg. anti-squat with the LRC RR hanger?

Edit: With minor dremeling, one could also put the original RR hanger upside down, which puts the mounting point 2.5mm lower on the rear - which only leaves the RF hanger to be lowered (For a 2mm lower mount, one could do a bit of dremeling on it and shim the block upward from under the hanger). I've got an idea for a 3D printed RF hanger that might work with this to achieve proper anti-squat adjustability.

I have a complete set of Alum blocks, so when I machined the RR I also machined each of the RF blocks. That said, I run RM and never run 0°, though I do have the 0° installed and then shimmed up. Much easier to slide shims in and out than to change a block.

I suppose if I had read your first post a little better I would have realized that you were trying to get 0°. Oops.