My new 210 build

[minke]

Not been able to race for quite a while now, the building bug is still strong though. I caved in and bought a 210 kit, since the prices are so cheap. (It would be rude not to!)
The kit quality is as I expected, smooth and a pleasure to put together. But there have been a couple of issues.
I have it in MM 4 gear setup with a geared diff. The rear end assembly looked awful, the instructions didn't show the rear bumper at all, so I had countersunk screws protruding from the bottom of the chassis. Also the sway bar mounts were really weak, the nyloc nuts kept spinning and the screws still look like they should be longer to go through the upper holes in the gearbox. I wish my scanner was working, just so I could show the incorrect diagram in the manual. Thankfully Stu at JE helped me out with that one.

I also need to know how to cut out the pod shell, got the right scissors, but after painting, the lines still aren't clear. Can anyone post a clear pic of a cut one to help me out?

Rest of my specs -

Nosram matrix Istc with Lrp X12 6.5T
35/30 shock oil with stock springs (not seen other springs available)
Schu yellow minispikes rear, yellow staggers on front, med inserts
2000wt gear diff oil, dunno if I should change it

[Si Coe]

That close enough to the setup mines running. Bring it down Sunday (I'll be in race control) and I'll give it a look over.

[minke]

It will be a week on sunday until I can come down, (I've been working 3 out of 4 weekends for a long time) It will give me time to get the wheels dyed black and tyres glued up though. I'll post pics tomorrow.

[Danosborne6661]

I wouldn't bother with the rear cowling set, waste of time. Just cut the rear of the shell round the gearbox casing like you would usually and don't bother with the cowlings. That's what most tend to do!

[minke]

My bad ekt, I meant the small side section that sits beside the main shell, it looks so damned awkward to cut.

[minke]

quickly put these up before I call it a night- bumper added in this one, those nylocs are a pain.

[Dombrasky]

the rear assembly is not right,the two small plastic inserts that are above the gearbox
should be underneath into the rear hingepin brace
were you can see thread of the screws is were the inserts need to be,look at the diagram
in the manual again, its not that clear really on page 38 but a bit better on page 42

[ekt]

Originally Posted by minke

Not been able to race for quite a while now, the building bug is still strong though. I caved in and bought a 210 kit, since the prices are so cheap. (It would be rude not to!)
The kit quality is as I expected, smooth and a pleasure to put together. But there have been a couple of issues.
I have it in MM 4 gear setup with a geared diff. The rear end assembly looked awful, the instructions didn't show the rear bumper at all, so I had countersunk screws protruding from the bottom of the chassis. Also the sway bar mounts were really weak, the nyloc nuts kept spinning and the screws still look like they should be longer to go through the upper holes in the gearbox. I wish my scanner was working, just so I could show the incorrect diagram in the manual. Thankfully Stu at JE helped me out with that one.

I also need to know how to cut out the pod shell, got the right scissors, but after painting, the lines still aren't clear. Can anyone post a clear pic of a cut one to help me out?

Rest of my specs -

Nosram matrix Istc with Lrp X12 6.5T
35/30 shock oil with stock springs (not seen other springs available)
Schu yellow minispikes rear, yellow staggers on front, med inserts
2000wt gear diff oil, dunno if I should change it

The online manual is more accurate http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manu...n%20Manual.pdf

Here are a pic from google that show how the shell is cut for MM.