Hop ups for DEX210 on initial build?

[ChrissieL]

Evening,

about to purchase a DEX210 and would like to know what you guys are running, hop up wise? I assume some form of weight in the front and change out the steering assembly?

Chris

[mutoid]

In a similar position as you.
Bits upgraded so far:
Shock collars with o-rings.
Tresrey 16pc spacer set.
Brass bulkhead.
Alloy steering block plate.

After building the so called pro kit,i was quite disappointed to find the large amount of non-alloy bits,especially spacers/washers which would cost pence to put in there.
In hindsight,i should have got the RTR kit for about the same price,and paid tthe extra tenner or so for the mid-motor bits.

[hypersonic77]

that's why I got the rtr last month as didn't seem loads of different and get a motor with it plus sold the controls on ebay for £25
upgrades I have done so far are carbon towers, carbon steering plate and have some alloy 14mm hex rear wheel mounts coming and parts to change to mid motor

[OneKiwi]

That's really all you might need:

CF towers, but I'm doing fine on stock ones.
If on rear stock put a 1mm spacer between the tower and gearbox

Hexes well i did ok with the stock one for quite a while then swapped out for alu ones. If you don't use tresrey locking ones then put some shoe gooe or silicone in the hex slot to help them stop falling out.

Steering rack, I think TD have upgraded that but its still flimsy so the alu or CF ones are a good choice

Shock collars... yes and no you can lightly score/scrape the thread so its not like new, but I do have the alu ones

I think other than that the rest is bling

[mattr]

Originally Posted by mutoid

After building the so called pro kit,i was quite disappointed to find the large amount of non-alloy bits,especially spacers/washers which would cost pence to put in there.

Which pro kit is that? Is it just the, um, kit version as opposed to the RTR? (Hint, there is only one kit version, no R and no full fat.....)

And in answer to the OP.......

Which of the suspension hangers are plastic on the kit now? Is it just the FR?
If it is, its worth upgrading that to a tresrey or RDRP aluminium one, the plastic one lasts *fairly* well, but it is a bit of a weak link, and can lead to lots of swearing if it breaks!

[ChrissieL]

So, just to clarify, from the people that have responded this far ( thanks for your responses btw), no one is running a brass bulkhead and/or the under servo weight?

[Gregerl]

I have tried the brass bulkhead several times, but always reverted back from it, the car just seems too nose heavy, I think it works if youare running really hot motors and with a very aggressive style, like J. Neumann. But for most I've seen the car work better without it. We do tend to use the cream under servo weight, and an alu bulkhead, or run with the plastic bulkhead and add weight on the servo.

My reccomendation for you would be to get the under servo weight and add stick-on weights to the servo as needed.

This is hat we mainly use on astro and carpet.

/Greger

[mattr]

I have the alloy bulkhead, a brass steering link and the underservo weight, i took the underservo weight out as it just got too nose heavy.
It's only in the car now as one of the jumps on our track is a nightmare in the wind, it was 50/50 if i'd flip the car when we got a gust at the wrong moment! The weight just kept it a bit more nose down. I'd prefer dealing with a bit nose down on every jump than on the roof every other lap!! It'll come out next time i have the servo out. (Unless its windy.)

The brass steering link is probably overkill, but its a pain to take out.
And the aluminium bulkhead is (really) just bling, even with my driving i didn't manage to break the original bulkhead.

As Greger says, getting one, or other, but not both, and then sticking weights on would be the best (and cheapest) solution, until you decide what you want.
And TBH, none of the are really *needed*. Just nice to have. The benefit they give can easily be replicated with sticky weights.