|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
First of all I would like to introduce myself... My name is Mikel (duh) sounds like Michael if you were wondering. I am an avid scale modeler and recently found myself a job in a hobby store. After much gnashing of teeth and cajoling from my other co-workers I was thrusted into the world of r/c. I was offered a tamiya DB-01 kit unbuilt and untouched for 40 USD. I put it all together exactly as per instructions and enjoy driving it. However I know that with some modification it could go incredibly faster and handle better. I am also aware that this is kit was designed after the trf501x I believe and have seen various ideas of ways to get this car faster and more durable. My questions are what are the modifications I should consider IMMEDIATELY and in the future and also what is the best choice of a motor for this kit. I have looked at dropping a Traxxas vilenion kit in it and other brushless systems and also have looked at speed gems brushed set-ups. Currently I am running the stock 540j and a dynamite speed controller that came with my transmitter, receiver and servo combo. I am not looking for blisteringly fast and am not even considering a round of competitive racing however I would like to see it get stupid. I am not opposed to tearing it apart again should the need arise and lucky me I get a discount on parts that being said money is not a huge issue either... so what would y'all do in my shoes?
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Hi Mikel,
Immediate upgrades - CVDs, slipper slutch and the alloy suspension arm mounting blocks (IMO anyway). Helpful other upgrades - Hex head screws! I run mine with a Mamba Max and 5700Kv motor at the moment and as DCM will testify it isn't exactly slow (I am having trouble with temps. at the moment though..........) Hope that helps.
__________________
Dragon Paints |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
After those upgrades, you might want to invest in the carbon shock towers, and if you are looking at putting some serious power in there, the TRF501X rear diff halves and carbide balls.
As for the motor, a 6.5 is pretty rapid or a 5.5 but that would need a lot more car maintenance. Ian.... should of bought a Tekin, lol
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks alot guys... This is going to be a daft question but what is a CVD? Like I said im stupis new at this. So i will probably be asking alot of stupid questions. Is there a site that you guys would reccomend ordering from or are all these parts available from Tamiya? I know that the motor y'all speak of is not a tamiya product but i can get the motor in my store anytime so that not a huge issue... but the other parts are another story. When i got the kit my manager was like what the **** is that. needless to say i have to order all the parts for it. Another odd question i have is about the "belt tensioners" that are offered for it. They go in the beside the center gears but how on earth do they actual tighten the belt??? or is the idea that it applies more pressure to the belt on the gear? I hope my wording is understandable. I dont know that this will help you I4n but i read about cutting vent holes in the body and putting mesh in to help cool it down maybe that could help? Either way thanks alot guys... looks like ill be ordering parts soon.
![]() |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Mikel,
A CVD is a type of drive shaft - the one's that come in the kit are "dog bone" drive shafts (so called 'cause they look like a dog bone). You didn't ask but the slipper is needed to control the extra power from the faster motor and protect the diffs etc. As far as I am aware the belt tensioners aren't actually belt tensioners but bearings that sit close to the belt to stop it coming off of the drive pulleys. I don't use them, I also don't think that DCM uses them either. I've had a look for you and you'll need the following Tamiya part numbers: CVD - 54015 (front) and 54016 (rear) Slipper - 54018 I'm in the UK but use a site based in Hong Kong - www.stellamodels.net and not had any problems with them. As for holes in my shell Mikel, it already looks like a sieve! I've got gearing issues that I'm working on (I think). DCM - had an email from castle, as long as the motor doesn't go above 93C (200F) then everything will be fine (apparently ![]()
__________________
Dragon Paints |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
the eccentric belt tensioners dont actualy tension the belt, the are placed just above the belt to stop the belt jumping teeth on the pulley.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
You can cut a hole on top of the motor on the body itself and put some kind of foam to cover it yet keeping the airflow at high speed. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks fabulous I was concerned there for a bit. I finally figured out how to use the website cross refferance and got it all straight there. I actually painted mine translucent blue with gold backing and the "cabin area" is al-clad prismatic maple with a purple back.I think it looks pretty good .. I'll have to get pics up as soon as I get home from work today.I'm still painting the wing but it is taking its sweet time getting there. Stupid airbrush just wont work on its own ya know
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|