ball diff broken

[racer11]

after 5 rounds of 5 minuit racing spaced 15 minuits apart the ball diff in my 22 gave in, (while trying to tighten it by holding wheel and spur and turning bolt in the ball diff the bolt just spun instead of being tight) i had tightened the diff two meetings ago and wondering if that could have caused it and how could i fix it. would this work;

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/TLR232001.html

or is there a cheaper quicker option than to take apart and rebuild the diff.

[Shaun_TLR]

Sounds like you ve snapped the diff screw by over tightening it. I did this on my 22T. Somewhat frustrating and does require pulling the guts of the car apart to fix it. Either its a bad design or I have fists of ham.......one of the 2! !

[racer11]

i dont think so as i broke it in and thought i made sure it was the acceptable tightness. would the mainanance kit work though?

[Frecklychimp]

Originally Posted by racer11

i dont think so as i broke it in and thought i made sure it was the acceptable tightness. would the mainanance kit work though?

Hi matey,

i read in another thread that you were having slipping/squealing issues, so the chances are you have damaged/prematurely worn the diff components more likely through too much heat... just tightening up a diff after it's been excessively slipping without a rebuild is likely going to lead to failure in near future.

You should always be keeping an eye on diff action between races, just a quick spin of the wheels in hand gives you an idea of its condition and little tweaks are much better than leaving it for too long and then cranking it up to compensate.

The 22 diff is a very good design and components are fine if it is maintained well, it's certainly a lot better than some of the other models on the market! I run a ball diff quite tight and have ran standard diff balls for many months of racing before they have become really gritty and worn by regularly cleaning and regreasing plus keeping the plates in good condition/replacing when needed.. where a lot of drivers wrecked them both in a meeting by poor set up/adjustment and then blaming the quality of components!

It is also very important to have the slipper set up correctly so the diff is not taking all the drivetrain 'shock' and load, they are both traction devices so need careful set up as having one too tight will cause load/wear and excessive heat on the other.

The rebuild kit you listed will get you back on track again, the uprated Tungsten Carbide diff balls are very good, will last a lot longer than standard chromed steel and be a lot smoother.

Try this as a guide:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EToj2yX76NU

[Shaun_TLR]

Originally Posted by Frecklychimp

Hi matey,


The 22 diff is a very good design and components are fine if it is maintained well, it's certainly a lot better than some of the other models on the market!

It is as I thought, I do have fists of ham

(my rounded off hex tools prob should have given me a clue to this)

Chimps' advice is certainly of more value than my input.I'm somewhat of a noob

[Frecklychimp]

A neat tool to have is the TLR Hex Differential wrench,

You insert it into the diff screw through the outdrive slots without having to remove the camber link or bottom shock mount to get access by removing driveshaft from outdrive, so much quicker for tweaking!

Adjustment is easier by using the opposite wheel to tighten or loosen the diff, you also get a better feeling of diff tightness through moving the wheel than you will through using a driver on the screw and are less likely to overtighten and damage internals.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2950