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#1
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hello all ive been toying with the idea to start buggy racing i would particuly like 1/10 herd there are a few clubs round kent.
my questions are what buggy to buy or do i need two can i still use nicads as that is what i use now do i need to spend a shed load of cash through out the year to upkeep what motor and esc brushed brushless and what is a good budget to start off with got £500 to play with i have got two RC10s gold pans would this be a good choice or are they abit too old i hope i dont sound too demanding just wanna get a idea thank you guys |
#2
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Nice gold tubs make ace office/model room art, dont get rid of them lads.
Racing, moved on a bit boss. No need to spend a bomb anymore to be competetive at club level, if your experience is 15 years ago plus you wil be amazed how technology has levelled the playing field. Cheap power & run time and strong ccars.
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#3
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Hi mate, the goldies aren't really worth racing these days as parts are hard to find. The stealth trannied gold car is much better but still you're much better off with something that others are running locally.
£500 is plenty especially if you buy some stuff second hand. Nicads will work but I'd advise getting a lipo and lipo charger. If you're club racing, you might need two packs, but I've raced with one pack myself and never had time to completely re-fill the pack, but it didn't matter.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. ![]() |
#4
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thanks for the quick feed back so do you reckon i can get everything with that sort of money even lipo and charger
i do like something pretty high quality but where to get one and what to get i have been looking at a ae b4 but wouldnt know witch b4 to get, is there anything particular i should look at also losi22 that looks nice |
#5
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Yes. There are 2 big main clubs in kent Faversham on wednesdays, which primarily runs 4wd cars and Maritime in Chatham on tuesdays which runs 2wd and 4wd but is mainly 2wd. there are other tracks which run events during the summer. My advice is go to one of the meetings have a chat with someone who looks like they know what there doing and ask questions about pretty much anything, also most clubs have shops that you could probably get a full setup from at once or order one in which would save a lot of hassle. |
#6
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#7
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__________________
SP12/RC10/XLS/JRX-2/XX/XXCR/XXCR-KE/XXX/XXXBK2/CR2/Xpro/B4/XX4/XXX4/X5/X11/DEX410/DEX210/DNX408/8ight/VW Golf GTI MK2/VW Golf TDI Wagon/Ovlov V70 D5/VW Beetle II (registered to Carrie)/Bailey Ranger/(does anyone read this bullshit?)/Creda Tumble2/HotPoint FE800/BOSCH SGS45C02GB/Dyson DC04/new patio doors & windows/freshly painted bannister rail & skirting boards, baby. Last edited by Stu; 28-01-2013 at 08:54 PM. |
#8
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http://www.maritimeracing.info/index...tact&Itemid=85 or have a look here: http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=130 most club info is here: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108387 |
#9
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Where abouts in kent may i ask?
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#10
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im in tobridge do you live in kent
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#11
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Ok guys think I've nailed it down to two buggys a losi 22
Or a sv2 just don't know what one to get |
#12
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Try listing the spec of each, and then deciding. For example, do you have an existing set of tools? Losi designed in the USA and Imperial hardware. SV2 designed in the UK and metric hardware.
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Schumacher racing http://www.racingcars.com ne-rc.blogspot.com My Trader Feedback : www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25402 |
#13
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Had both cars and definitely both good cars and you won’t go far wrong with either.
I found the Losi bulletproof - I bought a few spares but can’t remember actually breaking anything. Few issues like with any car but easily solved. Kit diff balls and screw are rubbish – might as well replace when you build the kit – probably cost about £12 tops. Out of the box in some track conditions it did suffer from a lack of rear traction but there is now a lot of set up information available to cure this and most people change the HRC rear block. Not a lot of room under the shell to get your electrics in so you’ll probably end up buying another shell but I found mine went better with a cab forward (FTW) shell anyway which had a load more room underneath. SV2 kit is a joy to build, it just falls together, and they have done a lot of the work for you like the shell and wing coming pre-cut. Feels like you get quite a lot for your money in terms of nice alloy bits. No need to really buy anything apart from the normal pistons/springs etc to suit track you are running on. If I have to come up with negatives in my experience it is not quite as strong as the Losi – had a couple of breakages (front bulkhead and servo saver) in not particularly bad accidents but then again any car can break if you hit things hard enough. Not trying to suggest it is a weak car in any way -just my opinion that Losi would not have broken in same accident. Also IMHO the rear gearbox seems overly complicated – there really is no need for the external idlers – so neither of 2 SV2s I built had the smoothest of gearboxes I’ve ever experienced but does not seem to affect performance. Also I almost guarantee that you’ll take at least 2 attempts to build the diff first time around due to annoying c clip – once you have it sorted its fine. For me they are so close that I’d just choose the most popular at the track you are going to race at most or if you have a local shop, which one is best supported. Rob
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____________________________ Rob Warren Yokomo Cal3.1 Yokomo YZ4 SF2 |
#14
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Also just looking at the pics of the sv2 it just says quality I can't see any plastic on it. And doesn't look like you need any upgrades for it maybe some weights. The 22 There are a lot at the track seeing so many skinny things running about the track not doubting them just saying there are a lot. But looks like you have to spend loads of money for parts and buy more up grades. I think I will end up buying a sv2 I spose it wouldn't matter wicH one I buy I can't go wrong. |
#15
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I've got two sets of kyosho velvets should I use them on the new buggy or keep the standard ones.
Another question can I convert the sv2 in to a rear mounted at all |
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