adding weight in front?

[vrooom]

anyone done it and what its like?

i am thinking about 20g of weight in front..

[Frecklychimp]

Why do you feel the need to add the weight?

I have but am curious of your reasons

[Frecklychimp]

Plus we need to know more of your set up to be able to advise if it will help cure anything:

mid/rear config?

battery config?

servo type?

shock settings/oils/springs?

ride heights?

body type?

are you running other weights?

[vrooom]

My car is Mid motor, running shorty lipo (turnigy nano 4200mah battery) Savox 1251 servo. ESC hobbywing 60a sd on top of battery. running speed passion 8.5t. standard body, with rear kit wing cut 2 'notches' running minipin rear (yellow), cut stagger front(yellow)
Kit spring (yellow rear, red front), kit oil weight.

This setup is my own, never copied anyone setup.

Front end.
0 degrees castor, 0 shim on #1 inside on camber link 2mm on castor block, 0 bump steer. 20 kick up block -1 camber, 1 degrees toe out. top shock middle, bottom, outside. 18mm ish ride height... no toe changes across the travel range.

Rear, 2mm shim on #2 inside, 0/b on hub, TLR 50g weight in rear. every else is kit setup. shock middle tower, outside on bottom. shock has 2mm spacer at bottom to push the shock out to make it more vertical rather than angle. 20mm ish rear ride height.

i find the steering isnt sharp as other, it does turn in very well. but not as quick as others cars like team C, X2c, SV2 etc... i got 150% epa on my dx2s

So thought about adding weight to give it "more grip/weight" at low/high speed.

[Robby]

Adding weight to the nose is going to be problematic, as your quickie fix to cure your steering woes will more than likely make it jump nose down - in addition to probably making it oversteer and make the rear want to spin out.
And considering how great these 22s steer, I've never heard of anyone needing to add weight to force it to turn.

And at the same time, when you do whacky things to the basic set-up (like you've done in the rear (vertical shocks, notched wing, etc), it's bound to affect other things in the car.
So, other than not understanding how you reached your baseline set-up (I've never seen your front-end setting used either), I don't understand why you haven't used any of the tried and proven set-ups anyone has listed (either here or elsewhere).

Additionally, while there's no way to guess what kid of servo you're running, that as well could be a problem if it's a low torque model.
And finally, if cut-staggers don't do it for people the next logical choice is to go with more front tire (narrow mini-pins, or even standard width mini-pins).

So, at the end of the day, there's a lot of little things that you can do in the way of "normal" fixes - instead of making some stab in the dark via making a bandaid repair that will make things worse than they are now.

[Frecklychimp]

Originally Posted by vrooom

My car is Mid motor, running shorty lipo (turnigy nano 4200mah battery) Savox 1251 servo. ESC hobbywing 60a sd on top of battery. running speed passion 8.5t. standard body, with rear kit wing cut 2 'notches' running minipin rear (yellow), cut stagger front(yellow)
Kit spring (yellow rear, red front), kit oil weight.

This setup is my own, never copied anyone setup.

Front end.
0 degrees castor, 0 shim on #1 inside on camber link 2mm on castor block, 0 bump steer. 20 kick up block -1 camber, 1 degrees toe out. top shock middle, bottom, outside. 18mm ish ride height... no toe changes across the travel range.

Rear, 2mm shim on #2 inside, 0/b on hub, TLR 50g weight in rear. every else is kit setup. shock middle tower, outside on bottom. shock has 2mm spacer at bottom to push the shock out to make it more vertical rather than angle. 20mm ish rear ride height.

i find the steering isnt sharp as other, it does turn in very well. but not as quick as others cars like team C, X2c, SV2 etc... i got 150% epa on my dx2s

So thought about adding weight to give it "more grip/weight" at low/high speed.

I think you need to evolve the set up to suit the configuration more...

Red front springs are too soft and come in the kit as suited more for rear motor dirt set ups aimed at US market... i would recommend Black or blue front springs to start with, will stop front collapsing and rolling too much.

27.5wt in front is light depending which pistons you run?

The rear weight will be making the car understeer in high grip conditions by creating too much rear grip and causing push on turn in... the rear weight is more suited or low grip conditions such as wet tracks or really bumpy tracks.

Have you tried 25 kick up and 5 deg blocks?

try more negative camber on rear than front which helps car pivot quicker

why uneven ride height?

what surface are you racing on?

having speedo mounted in that position with shorty lipo means you are running weight more towards rear... does speedo not fit in front?

I fitted brass 25deg shim and front alloy camber block to add a little weight, this was only only to keep nose down a little at high speeds for sweepers after straights, this probably added 20g... this was caused by using a different body which lifted front at speed

Have never had lack of steering and certainly never had to run toe out.

by all means try 20g on front, but with that set up i predict it will be worse

[vrooom]

thanks i know my set up is bit odd ball but it works for me. i tried other set up. it doesnt work for me.

i will try harder spring and remove the weight in back.