DEX210 ball diff issues

[dwp102]

This is as much a plea to Durango as much as anything. I know that this is not a universal problem, but I have suffered constant problems with the ball diff slipping, so much so that I have replaced it with an associated diff, which has cured the problem. The problem (highlighted to me by a friend from racing) as far as I can see lies in the thrust balls and plates not able to have enough pressure exerted on them, which is due to the thrust being on the inside of the outdrive rather than the outside. So if anyone has had the same problem please reply to this tread to highlight the problem, and do demonstrate it it not just me that cannot build a diff properly! Maybe if enough people reply something will be done about the issue, and if not then I will carry on using my associated diff.

[Adam Skelding]

Hi dwp,
Have you tried the 'Team Tech Tip' Build guide here?
http://www.team-durango.com/in-the-p...rticle_id=4771
There is certainly no design issue with the ball diff being able to have enough pressure exterted on the thrust balls. I can tighten my diff up so that it is a spool if need be, it's not a great thing to do as it will flat spot you plates and balls but I can assure you on a correctly built diff you can do this.

What grease are you using on your plates and balls? Incorrect use of the wrong type of grease can make your diff operate incorrectly, but I doubt this will be the full extent of your problem.

Another explaination for your problem might be that you have an out of tolerance part in your diff. We can't check this with you contacting the support staff at TD directly.

Please contact [email protected] and someone will get back to you directly.

[Lonestar]

Originally Posted by dwp102

The problem (highlighted to me by a friend from racing) as far as I can see lies in the thrust balls and plates not able to have enough pressure exerted on them, which is due to the thrust being on the inside of the outdrive rather than the outside.

tell your racing friend that other racing friends think he has no clue whether the thrust assembly is inside or outside, the spring would "push" it just the same

a helplessly slipping diff on the dingo is usually linked to a clip that has moved off his location (which happens often it seems, especially when the initial assembly wasn't done right)... on most other ball diffs it's usually caused by the wrong fluid (typically the thrust grease hitting the main balls).

Paul

PS: I have a brand spanking new in the bag ball diff for sale if you're interested nonetheless

[James Pickard]

I've also had the same issues with the kit diff built as per the tech guide with standard parts and kit grease. Managed to get it working with out slip, but at the expense of a really tight action. It does not seem to have any degree of adjustability either, with even the slightest micro adjustment causing it to slip again.

I too have gone over to the Assocciated diff which just works, and to be honest diff building really shouldn't be that troublesome!

[jo90]

One thing you may want to try, which im not sure appears in the build guide is to sand your diff plates.

Sand them down on 1000 grit Wet N Dry until you have a level shine across the face of the plate. Now rub them over 600 grit to add a light key to the surface. This will allow it to grip the balls but it wont hinder the smooth operation.

Make sure when you apply the grease you add enough to coat the balls and plates on both the thrust race (use associated black grease <no offence TD but this stuff is the best>) and the thrust plates. Place them onto the screw and run the screw over some tissue to remove the external excess grease. this leaves the balls covered, but nothing for dirt to grab to.

When you build the diff also apply a good coat of silicon lube (Schumacher is the best here) to the plates and to the balls in the pulley. Build it up so the diff is easy to move in the hand, hand tightenting until you cannot twist the pulley while holding outdrives. Clean off any excess grease from the outside of the pulley. Fit in the car and then do the final tightening with the wheels on, setting it to the point where it is smooth and you cannot turn the wheels while the spur gear is held in place.

That should be a good start point for you.

[dpackster1980]

I had an issue when I originally built the diff the circlip was damaged when I was a bit heavy handed tightening it. I used the method of winding it up then backing it off, DO NOT use this method it will end in tears and a diff rebuild.

The second time I used extra helpings of brake cleaner so the circlip gets a better hold of the outdrive and tightened the screw gradually. Now smooth as silk.

If you're not using proper circlip pliers then that'll be a big part of your problem. Another thing you must do is to make sure the outdrives are properly cleaned of oil, it makes such a difference in my eyes.

I thought the diff was a bad design originally but now I realised that it needs more care and attention during building compared other manufacturers that's all. I'm now happy with mine.

[/tobys]

and don't forget that running the diff in is a crucial step in the rebuild