|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I am intending to head down to Maritime Raceway to do some indoor racing. I have a stock DEX210, and have trawled Petit RC for set ups. There are quite a few carpet set ups from the likes of Skelding, Honigl, Neumann, and Collinson.
I was on the verge of the Collinson set up from Ardent, but that uses d-boots, and I am told that yellow minipins are the way to go. On the other hand if I go for the neaumann set up it appears to require different springs. I am from a TC/12th background - mostly TC - and really am at a bit of a loss ass to where to go. I did a little outdoor racing with the stock springs and 30wt oil and found the car to squat down wuite a lot at the back, and when going through corners the car would pitch and dig in on the outside front wheel causing it to roll. that being the case, should I be using heavier oils and a piston that would pack up more? Help me Obiwan Kenobi ur my only hope |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi mate,
i seem to have found a generic set up for my 210 which works on nearly all tracks. Now all i do is fine tune a few things, such as ride height and front camber links. This is my generic set up: Front: Shocks = 3x1.6mm pistons, 35wt oil, dark blue spring. Middle hole on shock tower, outer hole on wishbone. Caster = 30 degree (+5 insert) axle = trailing (kit standard) Camber link = outer hole on hub & outer hole shock tower for high grip. Inner hole on hub & inner hole on shock tower tower for low traction. 2mm washers under inner ball stud. Ackerman = Middle hole. Rear: Shocks = 4x1.6mm pistons, 30wt oil, light green springs. Middle hole on shock tower, middle hole on wishbone. Toe in = 3 degree (0 degree inserts) Anti-squat = 1.5 Camber links = 2mm washer under inner ball stud, 2nd from outer hole on hub. Wheelbase = middle Diff = geared diff with 1k oil on really high grip tracks (all carpet or astro), ball diff everywhere else. Battery position = middle Droop = maximum (wishbone screws all the way in) The above hardly changes on any track. I only make very small changes depending what the car is doing on the day. Hope this helps. Craig Collinson. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
thanks for that help - I was at a bit of a loss thus far - so this should get me round the indoor track then
![]() |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Can you buy the other pistons, or am I gonna have to drill some blank pistons.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Grest setup Craig
Maritime is not high grip tho apart from the straight All on throttle corners and acceleration points apart from one are on floor bourds or wood sheets. Stu rand |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Craig - I was watching you at Southport yesterday. Your car looked well planted. Did you have it set up as per your post above?
__________________
Tony Mulligan DESC410R, DEX410, DEX210, Cream Extreme (the dog's b******s) www.srcc.co.uk |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
hi could u give some tips on the ball diff? how tight etc? any mods?
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
i run the ball diff just tight enough so it doesnt slip. No mods at all. No mods you can do with a ball diff really, just make sure it's smooth and not slipping. Craig |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks by mods i meant lik a different e clip or anything?
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Sorry, yes i do use a different circlip. It's a Durango part but not sure if it's available yet. Could be a running change but im not 100% sure. To be honest though, ive never had an issue with the kit standard one. As long as you make sure to push the circlip all the way into the grooves of the outdrive, you shouldnt have a problem. Follow the diff build guide on the TD website of your unsure.
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|