|
|||||||||||||||
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Any instructions for how to fit and how to adjust?
|
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Seems obvious to me.. 2 middle holes for mounting screws, one outer hole for king pin and extre hole for mounting to chassis via a new hole drilled in chassis.
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
and various spacers between wishbone and chassis to adjust camber, castor and ride height. the usual mardave simple and accurate solution
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks.
|
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
How much castor do people tend to run on their front arms?
On my cec I used to use a nylock under the front of the top deck and a flat nut under the rear and this gave quite a lot of caster. I removed the nylock and use two thin washers now but I'm unsure what change its made although the car is driving really nice currently. I'm guessing with these I loose the top deck but how many mm is the norm? Cheers
__________________
X6 Squared. No2 car. Novak. Savox. X6 Squared. No1 car. RS Pro, LRP. SC10 4x4 FT. Toro 120A. Tenshock. Savox. SC10. Stock spec ESC & motor. KO Propo. Powered by Nanotechnology. |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
After talking with mr mardave. You keep the top deck but install it flat. And use the washers to give caster and camber.
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|