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Old 20-09-2006
KyoshoK KyoshoK is offline
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Default building the shocks

hi

was wondering how you guys fill up your shocks? i do as per instructions, but it seems to overflow too much and then it feels underfilled.
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Old 20-09-2006
andreasH andreasH is offline
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I filled the shocks from the top. Worked pretty well.
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Old 20-09-2006
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sosidge sosidge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreasH View Post
I filled the shocks from the top. Worked pretty well.
I've been using mine with the W6006 bladders, you have to fill from the top and be careful when you fit the bladders so they don't slip out of place, but you seem to get an air-free shock.
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Old 20-09-2006
KyoshoK KyoshoK is offline
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yeah i'll look at those bladders.

I tried filling from the top but the lack of a bladder meant that there was a bit of a air gap.
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Old 20-09-2006
andreasH andreasH is offline
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That is a very good hint.
I remember using these diaphragm at my old Tamiya shocks.
Never wondered why there were non in the Lazer kit.
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Old 20-09-2006
BluesFan BluesFan is offline
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Seems like these shocks have only been getting either 'love' or 'hate' relationships. I happen to love the ZX-5 shocks. They are the best in all 1/10 cars. I fill them Losi style from the bottom. Keep the shock shaft fully extended out, fill the shock body, screw the bottom cap on a few threads, push the shock shaft all the way in, screw the cap all the way in (finger tight). done and done. Easiest shocks to deal with, no air and completely smooth. I haven't even changed out my seals yet from Oct. of '05!
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Old 02-11-2006
KyoshoK KyoshoK is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
I've been using mine with the W6006 bladders, you have to fill from the top and be careful when you fit the bladders so they don't slip out of place, but you seem to get an air-free shock.

hi i got the bladders now. wow so much more smoother, no more air gap, i havent had a chance to run it.

just wondering with the bladders, do you then not need to use the o-ring thats on the top cap?
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Old 02-11-2006
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sosidge sosidge is offline
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Yes, you need to remove the original top cap o-ring, the diaphragm makes the seal.

Funnily enough I've stopped using the bladders now because the rear shock piston hits them at full compression! Not a big problem, just something I fiddled with and decided the kit setting was better, even though you do end up with squeaky shocks.
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Old 02-11-2006
KyoshoK KyoshoK is offline
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do you run the compression limiters still? i found they acted like window wipers and kept pushing dirt into the orings...
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  #10  
Old 03-11-2006
SimonW SimonW is offline
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I run yokomo BC/BX rear shock shafts(Ti coated), 1, cos' the steel ones wear out quickly on dirt as they are un-protected from front wheel 'blast' and 2, cos with no internal spacer fitted they have the same down travel (droop) as the kit shafts (with spacer) as they are shorter, the piston will also sit lower in the body at full compression ie: further away from the air at the top.
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