|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Anyone ran/running without them? Better or worse?
Thanks in advance ![]() |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
We've only ever run without them tbh and have never felt the need to reduce droop front or rear .... and that includes running indoors on carpet/polish and outdoors on astro .... cars awesome everywhere .... think I've said that before
![]() |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I found tuning the car with droop screws useful when trying to get the car to change direction more quickly on indoor astro. A little goes a long way I have found. Obviously alot quicker and easier than putting shock limiters in....
__________________
www.facebook.com/racewayone RACEWAYONE :: LMR :: MIBOSPORT :: RC CONCEPT :: SMD Trader Feedback: http://oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81070 |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The droop screws fell out of my car and driveshafts kept on falling out
As soon as I replaced the screws it was fine
__________________
Schumacher KF2 SE Schumacher K2 Schumacher Racing, MB Models and Rc Genius Last edited by nicVEGAchildJR; 03-10-2012 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Driveshafts NOT wishbones |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
sorry guys, bringing back this to the surface... it's shocking that there is so little setup info on droop for the dingo, given that it's one of the only cars on the market that helps you NOT mess with f'n inside oily spacers!!!
Anyone's got a good starting point, and can explain where/how to measure the numbers (under the arm angle, under the arm tip, under the axle, etc...). I've just finished the car and won't have any practice before raceday saturday morning (100 entries) That's one key thing to tune weight transfer with... good fingers can compensate for this but it'd be a shame to not use them... thanks! Paul |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Hi Paul,
Best way to measure is from the top of the head of the screw to the wishbone. It the easiest to measure repeatably. The droop info for the set-up sheet is being added to the next on-line update which should be out soon. It was an unfortunate ommisson and also occures on the SC and ST which is what brought it to light. In General More droop = Better over the bumps and jumps. Less droop = Faster change in direction. More front droop = more traction (greater weight transfer to the rear) Less front droop = more on power (Less weight transfer to the rear)
__________________
5 Time Oople Invernational SC Champion. Powered by OptiPower Do, or do not, there is no try! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Just a note. When running the longer plastic chassis you'll find that rear droop is dramatically reduced in comparison to the standard chassis. I removed the screws and got exactly the same droop as the old chassis with the screws in but fully tightened.
__________________
Tony Mulligan DESC410R, DEX410, DEX210, Cream Extreme (the dog's b******s) www.srcc.co.uk |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The droop settings that some people give may be a bit misleading as there are two types of wishbones.
The early type have the head of screw proud of the wishbone and the later wishbones have the screw recessed into the wishbone, giving quite considerable droop differences with the "screws all the way in" or "maximum droop"!! |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
which is why the only "correct" droop setup info is (chassis rise + ride height) ... the rest depends on too many suspension parts designs/setup/shims
![]() paul |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|