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#1
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Right, just spent some time poking round today, having a think and so on.
Apologise in advance for the length of post........ Noticed that there are a lot of people snapping towers and only a two or three solutions kicking around, namely, stronger towers (Cream, Atomic etc), a high wing mod to protect the tower and using spacers between tower and gearbox housing to allow some flex. (or, of course not crashing ![]() Another one mentioned on another thread was cutting the back of the motor plate away in line with the cover mounting lug. I had a think about this one, and had a good look, and in itself, this won't do anything (as there is clearance between the tower and the motor plate, so nothing for it to catch or jam on as it waggles backwards and forwards). But, i did notice, on my two drive old rear tower (from Cream), that there is a witness mark where the actual lug has touched and some chipping/crushing of the top layer of CF, despite having a set of 1mm spacers to offset from the g/box housing. Additionally there is what looks like the beginnings of a crack running from the impact point in a 45 degree line towards the top/middle of the car, across that side of the tower. From memory, its *almost* always been the left arm (75% of the time?) that has snapped off (only run it in MM). Has anyone else noticed any sort of a trend in cracks? i.e. always left hand in MM and always right hand in RM? FWIW there is no clearance worth speaking of when you have no spacers and/or the stock tower. Cos i reckon that lug is acting as a point load into the tower and causing it to fail prematurely, instead of flexing. I've tried a set of 2mm spacers now, and it *looks* as if there will be clearance to the lug, allowing the tower to flex evenly (left and right) with no restriction. Does anyone think it's worth trying to mod a plate, remove the lug and just taping the spur cover into place at the top? Actually, i've just answered that question, i've just got a spare plate, i'll wait until i snap the next tower and try it. Unless the 2mm offset works...... |
#2
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RDRP are going to be releasing a set of alloy front and rear shock towers that look the mutts as well as looking quite tough
Not sure when exactly these will be out but you can see a pic here http://www.redrc.net/2012/01/rdrp-dex210-option-parts/ there are some pretty swish looking metal towers on the pulse RC website to showcase the shell they do http://www.pulserc.de/dex210-body-available/ not sure if these are the RDRP ones or something different but i want some |
#3
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#4
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Any idea when they'll be out?
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#5
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As always, the only concern with aluminium parts is if the gearbox housing will turn into the weakest link?
Going from stock to CF takes the repair from a regular event, to an occasional tower swap which takes less than 10 minutes and virtually no risk of dropping/losing bits/getting dirt in the gearbox housing. Going to an (essentially) flex free aluminium tower........... whats that going to do to the gearbox housing? And how long does it take to swap the housing? A while. (And as with all the RDRP stuff, when are we actually going to see it?) I daresay i'll end up with one tho ![]() |
#6
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You can't go far wrong investing in Cream Front and rear Towers
see The Cream kit for the DEX210 They will take some hammer without breaking or busting the gearbox. Just don't over tighten the mounting screws as it will create stress points. I've given my DEX210 some punishment with cartwheels at speed and on occasion hit some trackside kerbing on a roll ![]() ![]() |
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