Clutch slipping even when fully tightened

[Acksaw]

Hi all, I have a one meeting old TLR 22 and when I try to set the slipper before re-using it I cannot get it to stop slipping even when fully tigthened. I found online that some springs were smaller but I've mesaured mine with a vernier and it's 12mm so it would seem the right one...

Any ideas? I've tried flipping the pads already and rebuilding it several times

[Frecklychimp]

sounds like its contaminated or pads are glazed.

is there any polishing to plates?

I clean pads with a flat scalpel blade which removes glazing and gives them a 'key' to help bed them in better and clean everything with automotive clutch/brake shoe cleaner... never had problems with kit parts... always compress a new kit spring with pliers etc to get it 'working'

Have you tried replacing the nyloc nut? it may feel like it's tightening but be spinning under any load?

have you got grease/lube leaking from gearbox into the slipper unit?

i use 35wt shock oil on gears to make the box quieter and slow wear... but only a little drop rotated through gears so gears have a shine, they are not dripping wet!

Only other explanantion could be the diff slipping rather than clutch?

[Moose]

mine need only a very little tension.

I would use 1200 grit and sand the slipper pads slightly.
Clean everything with brake cleaner.

My guess would be the diff. The slipper spring puts some massive tension on the pads when fully tightend, I would never ever tighten it even half ways. And even if it is glazed and oily it should not slip much. Some slipper use teflon/ POM slipper pads and they have less friction without oil on it so my tip is the diff. As chimp said compress the spring first!

[Robby]

Originally Posted by Acksaw

Hi all, I have a one meeting old TLR 22 and when I try to set the slipper before re-using it I cannot get it to stop slipping even when fully tigthened. I found online that some springs were smaller but I've mesaured mine with a vernier and it's 12mm so it would seem the right one...

Any ideas? I've tried flipping the pads already and rebuilding it several times

Are you sure the clutch is slipping, or could it be the diff?

Even with your pads glazed you should be able to lock the slipper.

[Acksaw]

The spur spins when it's "slipping" so I thought it HAD to be the pads slipping? The diff is loose at the moment as I wanted to adjust it at the track.

The pads are a little shiny. I'll sand them a bit and clean everything else with brake cleaner.

Also the plates are indeed shiny. How can I remove that?

[HyperDunley]

Hi Jamie, it's your diff mate not your slipper. I had exactly the same problem with mine until I tightened the diff nut right up, works perfectly now.

Give it a try pal, I thought mine was tight enough at first, but when you run it for a while it might have loosened up a bit.

You getting back into 1/10 then?

[Moose]

I would always recommend to set the diff first and THAN the slipper because the diff setting affects the slip too.
What is the sound like? a BSSSS or a BRRR BSSS is slipper BRRR is diff
It is really hard to see the slipper slip, but if it slippes it gets very hot after one or two short slips. So you can try with your finger, but be careful.
Just clean the diff plates, dont sand them because they soulnd not sand down the diff pads IU would leave tham as they are.

[Acksaw]

Just tried to tighten the diff as it was loose, not sure if this is the issue though. Got half a turn on it and the tip of the screw has stripped. I can't afford to buy another plus postage (and won't get one by Tuesday anyway!) so that means I can't race again.. 3 weeks on the trot now.. Think I'll just get a gear diff. Had more problems with the ball diff than any other I've owned.. Can't understand how the tip can even strip like that..

[Moose]

it is hard to help you without seeing everything but I never had this problem in any car. Looks like you overtightend the diff. Did you sand the diff rings first and compressed the diff spring? And used the right grease everywhere?
Without sanding it and using wrong grease it will always slip.
You can have a look at some youtube clips how to build it. The TLR diff is super good to be honest but the gen2 Diff nut is a nice to have.

[Robby]

Originally Posted by Acksaw

Just tried to tighten the diff as it was loose, not sure if this is the issue though. Got half a turn on it and the tip of the screw has stripped. I can't afford to buy another plus postage (and won't get one by Tuesday anyway!) so that means I can't race again.. 3 weeks on the trot now.. Think I'll just get a gear diff. Had more problems with the ball diff than any other I've owned.. Can't understand how the tip can even strip like that..

Yeah, that was your issue.

Screw heads, especially small ones, have been known to strip, especially when you don't use the correct size hex driver on them.
I don't really understand it, as this is a screw that shouldn't really be messed with often enough to strip the head.