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#1
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Yes I know there are many threads on this but I have tried almost all the suggestions and even some of my own methods with no success. I still have then fall out after around 2 heats or a main.
So far I have tried using, Blue lock loctite, Red loctite, CA glue and Heat-shrink + Red loctite. The problem I find with the Heat-shrink is that if you dont put it on the axle joint far enough it will end up sliding off, and if you put it on too far it gets torn apart by the bearings/hub. Any suggestions other than rebuilding all four CVD drive shafts after every heat? Thanks! |
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#2
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are you cleaning the sets and the threads in the barrel parts with motor spray?
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#3
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Are you putting the grub screw onto the flat part of the pin? That's the only thing that has caused me to lose any drive pins in the last 18 months.
I've built them clean, dirty, with threadlock, without threadlock and doused in oil/grease. Only lost 2, both times as i wasn't careful about aligning the flats on the drive pins....... |
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#4
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also make sure the grub screw is flat on the end,sometime they have a little pip on them
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#5
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Clean all the parts with brake cleaner, then make sure they are dry. Use a new bottle of genuine red loctite, not some old bottle that you've had for years.
Use two grub screws, one on the flat side and one on the non flat side. You want to nip the flat side down, then the non flat side and then tighten them both up. Never had a pin come out with the above method.
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Kyosho RB6 |
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#6
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You should make sure that the ball bearings are ok. Bad ball bearings and bad shimming could make a lot of vibration. This can make ting loosen.
You should also make sure that the drive train is free. That there is not a lot off friction. This will make the axel CVD warm, then the lock-tight will loosen.
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DEX 210, 410 and 410Ultra Kyosho Lazer FS2 SP Ultima RB5 SP2 WE and Vega SP2 Ultima SC-R and DESC 410R BOMBK Norway |
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