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#1
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Hi guys.
I need some advise on how to get more steering into my X-6. I read thru a lot of threads in this forum and you get always different answers. Long wheelbase, short wb for example. Here is what I have in my X-6: I run 6 cells (side-by-side)!! (Dont want to change that) 6.5 Turn motor 4- gear tranny AE shocks. Front: WT40, piston #2, blue spring; Rear: WT60, piston #2, silver spring. Micro pins in the rear and stagger rib up front. I changed the ride hight in the rear a bit up, to get the weight transfered to the front. All that didnt help a lot. The car still doesnt turn in as sharp as my B4 used to. Exiting a corner is even worse.... Do you have any advise? Frank |
#2
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Dont own an X6 but their is alot more weight centrally in the X6 so the mid motored cars generally tend not to get as much steering as the B4. Id try going down to 35wt in the front shocks.
And id definatley go down to 30 wt in the rear shocks. 60wt sounds far to hard. HTH ben
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Schumacher Racing - Reedy - Schelle - TKR - Bandicoot Bodies - MIP - Nextlevelrc - Trishbits - Moss Models |
#3
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I'm afraid to say it ,but your cells across the chassis is probably the main cause.
if you run them 4x2 format things will change, and the set ups people are giving you most probably work better, see my site in the downloads section for more info. espeed alloy rear hangers also help loads and i have to admit losi shocks are better
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#4
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Right all these things will help with steering.
ESpeed rear hangers, pretty much a must actually. Rear roll bar Low gearbox height long wheelbase short link on the rear hub. Front wing Front camber link long on the tower and short (inside) on the castor block. Raise the inner front link up by around 4 washers If the track is flat run the rear shocks middle or outside hole on the arm. Front shocks inner hole on the arm. Inline axles These things will get it to steer just how many of them you need is just dependant on the track. Also have you not thought of running minipins on the front?? Might be worth a go. You will get it to steer, the thing is we have loads of traction and when it is a grippy track it can sometimes be too much so you just have to tweak it to get rid of it but it can be done. E. |
#5
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I have to say that your main problem will be running stagger ribs on the front. You might want to try schumacher yellow minipins all round before trying anything else as this will give you lots more steering, especially inside.
Mark
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:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint :: |
#6
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Snap mark, thats what I was going to say.
Ribs on most surfaces won't be as good a minipins/spikes. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
![]() Even had to look it up in the B4 manual: FRONT CAMBER LINKS work better on med-grip loose tracks.
Shortening the camber link (or lowering the ball end) will give the front end less roll and quicken steering response. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the front more roll and slower steering response. Longer camber links are typically used on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to |
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