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Old 30-01-2012
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MILKY MILKY is offline
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Default Took the plunge and bought an X5

Hello to the family,Took the plunge and bought an X5...always loved the x factory product and in particular 4WD so why not

This is immaculate(for now) and will get used hard so any thing to watch for?

The car is in top condition and has had little use but the belt appears to click,is this the norm or is it mis-aligned?The lay shaft can be removed with out mountain man like strength so presuming tension is good.

Thanks in advance
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Old 31-01-2012
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First, Milky, I hope you have a ton of fun with your new old ride. Indeed there is life in the old nail yet; properly maintained she's a dream to drive and very competitive.

There are several threads on here about the X - 5, and I suggest you give them a read. Biggest thing is to make certain the belt is running straight and free. Take the bottom cover off and run the car -- you'll se what the belt is doing and you can move the idler in or out to make the belt run straight.

There are many posts on belt tension. Some people try to make it ridiculously tight in an attempt to eliminate skip -- you can't. What you want is minimal skip. The driveline must be free to rotate, and tight enough to eliminate skip is just too tight.

Finally, don't run a big motor. You'll say this sounds slow, but an 8.5 is about the most she will handle and when the driveline is properly free, it's plenty fast if geared right. The car was designed around the 11 double and 3300 cells, about all you wanted in 2003. Modern LiPos and brushless motors simply overpower the driveline.

So please check the other threads and see if they answer any other questions you have.
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Old 01-02-2012
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Chazz is 100% right if you want to keep the car running problem free. However (with regular maintenance) I had no issue running 8-9 turns when we ran brushed even on high grip astro, and 5.5 brushless with early Lipo (more like 7.5 now with latest generation motors and high power lipo). BUT be prepared for the layshaft gear wearing, keep an eye on it. Some of us ran xx4 gear here but take into account the effect on gear ratio - and reshim the whole layshaft properly so no side play and belt runs straight like Chazz says.

I got around the skipping under braking, by turning my brakes right down to approx 60%. i.e. enough to race a quick lap and brake into corners, but not enough to lock the wheels and skip the belt (just). This was with running a one way front diff. I absolutely loved my X-5 but it feels like such a long time ago now.
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Old 01-02-2012
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Thanks for the replys. Can't wait to use it and love the no compromise design. Chris do you happen to know the part number for the gear?
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Old 01-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MILKY View Post
Thanks for the replys. Can't wait to use it and love the no compromise design. Chris do you happen to know the part number for the gear?
It is the rear belt pulley from a Losi XX4 that is used, part number is LOS A3210
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Old 01-02-2012
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Hi Darren thanks for that,had a few bits from you for it yesterday should have added it to the order!oops. I want to keep most bits in my box is the Losi xx4 pulley set worth using instead of the x factory items?as in diff pulleys also and do you keep either on stock.

Thanks.
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Old 01-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MILKY View Post
Hi Darren thanks for that,had a few bits from you for it yesterday should have added it to the order!oops. I want to keep most bits in my box is the Losi xx4 pulley set worth using instead of the x factory items?as in diff pulleys also and do you keep either on stock.

Thanks.
Hi,

If you got two packets of A3210 this would see you good, you can also use the rear diff gear of the XX4 front and rear on the X5, this coupled with the XX4 rear pulley was the best we found to minimize belt skip and tooth wear....
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Old 01-02-2012
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Agreed. Get the pulley at the minimum.

If Chazz/Darren can help you with the double roller on the belt tensioner then that also is worth running....

The XX4 pulley is well machined but is 1 tooth smaller or bigger (I can't remember now) than the Xfactory pulley. The significant difference is the Xfactory early pulleys were not perfectly round, Losi ones were. Later Lesro ones wore too fast but some people still used them, I didn't. Not sure on other options, I think Kinwald ran an Xray pulley (I could be wrong).
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Old 01-02-2012
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Losi pulley is 17t, X-Factory/Lesro were 16t.

So if you use the Losi pulley, gear accordingly (smaller pinion).

Ah, memories
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  #10  
Old 01-02-2012
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Thanks for all the help,this what I love about x factory everyone is willing to help.

The centre pulley seems to be perfectly round with no wobbles in the machining and the diff gears are White. Am thinking the xx4 parts may already be on it as it is well maintained and setup. Will have to count the teeth to be sure I guess.

Re aligned the centre pulley as the belt was catching it,all true at the moment.
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Old 02-02-2012
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Yep, Chazz and Paul are great guys, and the cars show the passion they put in to it, therefore the drivers/Ex-drivers at any level all hold a fondness for them!

I always remember my first run of the X-5 and thinking "oh my word, where has this been all my life" 9and this was early days, before any good setups were known for it!). If they can do this with the X-7, it is a must have above any other must have.
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Old 04-02-2012
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I have owned so many 4wd vehicles its insane. To give you a hint, I am rebuilding a Yoke 870C that my brother and I put together some 20 some years ago (25?) - and this was not my first 4wd.

X-5 was by far the best. One thing you need to know - keep two or three sets of extra front arms. The speed of a 4wd against the stock losi arms is far from ideal.

Other than that, you have one of the best 4wd made.
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Old 04-02-2012
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Schumacher CAT front wishbones are a direct replacement, the medium flex ones are much more robust than xx4 ones.
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  #14  
Old 04-02-2012
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Yes I had seen a post somewhere regarding the cat arms and have some left over from a cat I recently sold so all good.

Used it for the first time last night and it was awesome. Lapped quicker than I could get my b max to lap,suits my driving style as it Is a proper hooners car and appears to like being thrown hard into all corners!
Very impressed but broke a front bulkhead as I hadnt done the pin brace mod!mind you I did hit it hard!

All in all very impressed.
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Old 05-02-2012
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Our caster block screws are a must-have. They cut front arm breakage in half or less. I think X Factory UK still has them.
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  #16  
Old 05-02-2012
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I think it already has them,shouldered bolts that go in from either end?
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Old 06-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MILKY View Post
I think it already has them,shouldered bolts that go in from either end?
But the thread into to castor block, and not the wishbone like original ones do.

With original, if you take a knock the wishbone is at 1/2 strength. With the Xfactory screws it doubles the strength.... but make sure they are in perfectly straight, if not they can bind and then they loosen..

I used to use xfactory screws at the front of wishbone, standard screws at rear of wishbone. This protects against knocks from the front - wish they all will be unless your driving backwards.
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