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  #1  
Old 10-06-2012
jcb jcb is offline
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Default Power on steering

I am after a bit more power on steering out of my mid motor'd 22. Mid corner rotation on hair pins is fine as is entry steering, but it's tending to push and wash out on faster sweepers and chicanes. Its the first time I have run the car on dry astro having mainly raced on grass / dirt and a lot in the wet so I've nearly always been chasing rear end grip. The set-up I finished on is shown below:
Any suggestions welcome,

Front Suspension
Toe: Out 0.5'
Ride Height: wishbones level
Camber: -1'
Castor: 5'
Kick Angle: 25' - Brass
Oil: 40
Piston: 3 Hole 1.45mm tapered
Spring: blue
Spindle Type: kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 1mm
Camber Link: 1 - 1mm washers on tower, 1mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 2.5'
Roll Center: HRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: -1'
Wheel Base: Medium
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 3 hole 1.55mm tapered
Spring: pink
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 2-2 (2mm under tower ball stud and 1mm under hub ballstud)
Shock Locations: 2-inside
Hex Width: +1.5mm

Tires: Schumacher Yellow mini spikes on rear and Schumacher Cut staggers on front (not the low profile ones)


My initial reaction is that I could reduce the anti-squat or maybe try the 10 degree front blocks and go back to the standard width rear hex's.
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  #2  
Old 11-06-2012
Robby Robby is offline
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Get rid of the toe-out for starters, maybe even try a tad bit of toe-in - well keep the steering from reacting so late.
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  #3  
Old 14-06-2012
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Gnarly Old Dog Gnarly Old Dog is offline
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I think you'll gain a little more corner exit turn if you revert to the 20 deg kick angle and the 10 deg caster blocks.

I'd also possibly try removing the brass shim weight from the kick up and you could go back to the std width hex as you've already suggested.

Or maybe increase your static camber a touch.

Nothing in your setup screams 'wrong' to me Jon - I can't comment with much authority on the Tapered pistons and oils that you are running but geometry wise - you're not far away from where I am.

Poss go Med-Long on the wheelbase if need be. Have you got any additional weight anywhere?

The Toe-out will be reducing the effectiveness of the outer wheel under load - so maybe go to zero or even a bit of toe-in as Robbie suggests?
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  #4  
Old 14-06-2012
woOdy woOdy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb View Post
I am after a bit more power on steering out of my mid motor'd 22. Mid corner rotation on hair pins is fine as is entry steering, but it's tending to push and wash out on faster sweepers and chicanes. Its the first time I have run the car on dry astro having mainly raced on grass / dirt and a lot in the wet so I've nearly always been chasing rear end grip. The set-up I finished on is shown below:
Any suggestions welcome,

Front Suspension
Toe: Out 0.5'
Ride Height: wishbones level
Camber: -1'
Castor: 5'
Kick Angle: 25' - Brass
Oil: 40
Piston: 3 Hole 1.45mm tapered
Spring: blue
Spindle Type: kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 1mm
Camber Link: 1 - 1mm washers on tower, 1mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 2.5'
Roll Center: HRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: -1'
Wheel Base: Medium
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 3 hole 1.55mm tapered
Spring: pink
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 2-2 (2mm under tower ball stud and 1mm under hub ballstud)
Shock Locations: 2-inside
Hex Width: +1.5mm

Tires: Schumacher Yellow mini spikes on rear and Schumacher Cut staggers on front (not the low profile ones)


My initial reaction is that I could reduce the anti-squat or maybe try the 10 degree front blocks and go back to the standard width rear hex's.
I think your are running too much rear toe in. Use a 3' and you will find it comes out of the corner better.
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  #5  
Old 14-06-2012
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Razer Razer is offline
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Posts: 341
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Just put your rear shocks out on the arm. Usually the first and only thing I do when I lack steering out of the turns, could work for you as well
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  #6  
Old 14-06-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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Posts: 377
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How about trying spikes on the front as opposed to staggereds? (But dont trust me......I'm a noob)
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  #7  
Old 15-06-2012
jcb jcb is offline
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Cheers for the reply guys.

I'll give the suggestions a go and see what comes from it.


Anyone know what the part number is for the 3degree rear toe block as I can only find the 3.5degree and more!
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  #8  
Old 15-06-2012
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D20MCK D20MCK is offline
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http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2984 LRC

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR2983 HRC
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  #9  
Old 15-06-2012
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TARTMAN TARTMAN is offline
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Default wow

I really need to know more about set ups. i sort of just chuck it on the track and race it........

oh well..........................

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  #10  
Old 16-06-2012
Robby Robby is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TARTMAN View Post
I really need to know more about set ups. i sort of just chuck it on the track and race it........

oh well..........................

I think that's the problem today, instead of experimenting and finding out what works and what doesn't and how particular changes relate to your driving style or track conditions - people are too ready to just log onto a forum, ask what set-up other people run, and blindly follow it not knowing whether it's even relative.
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