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#1
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I am after a bit more power on steering out of my mid motor'd 22. Mid corner rotation on hair pins is fine as is entry steering, but it's tending to push and wash out on faster sweepers and chicanes. Its the first time I have run the car on dry astro having mainly raced on grass / dirt and a lot in the wet so I've nearly always been chasing rear end grip. The set-up I finished on is shown below:
Any suggestions welcome, Front Suspension Toe: Out 0.5' Ride Height: wishbones level Camber: -1' Castor: 5' Kick Angle: 25' - Brass Oil: 40 Piston: 3 Hole 1.45mm tapered Spring: blue Spindle Type: kit Shock Limiters: 2mm Shock Location: 2-middle Bump Steer: 1mm Camber Link: 1 - 1mm washers on tower, 1mm washers on hub Rear Suspension Chassis Configuration: Mid Toe: 4' Anti Squat: 2.5' Roll Center: HRC Ride Height: Driveshafts Level Camber: -1' Wheel Base: Medium Oil: 32.5w Piston: 3 hole 1.55mm tapered Spring: pink Shock Limiters: 0mm Camber Link: 2-2 (2mm under tower ball stud and 1mm under hub ballstud) Shock Locations: 2-inside Hex Width: +1.5mm Tires: Schumacher Yellow mini spikes on rear and Schumacher Cut staggers on front (not the low profile ones) My initial reaction is that I could reduce the anti-squat or maybe try the 10 degree front blocks and go back to the standard width rear hex's.
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Norfolk Buggy Club- Norfolk's 1/10th and 1/8th Premier Off Road Model Car Club in association with BRCA East of England 1/10 Off Road Regional Racing JemmettFox- Accountants and Business Advisors Click any of the above to head to the website! |
#2
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Get rid of the toe-out for starters, maybe even try a tad bit of toe-in - well keep the steering from reacting so late.
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#3
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I think you'll gain a little more corner exit turn if you revert to the 20 deg kick angle and the 10 deg caster blocks.
I'd also possibly try removing the brass shim weight from the kick up and you could go back to the std width hex as you've already suggested. Or maybe increase your static camber a touch. Nothing in your setup screams 'wrong' to me Jon - I can't comment with much authority on the Tapered pistons and oils that you are running but geometry wise - you're not far away from where I am. Poss go Med-Long on the wheelbase if need be. Have you got any additional weight anywhere? The Toe-out will be reducing the effectiveness of the outer wheel under load - so maybe go to zero or even a bit of toe-in as Robbie suggests? |
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#5
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Just put your rear shocks out on the arm. Usually the first and only thing I do when I lack steering out of the turns, could work for you as well
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Martin Sørlie, 1985. Spektrum DX4R Pro - TLR 22 2.0 & TLR 22-4 - Absima Team Smallsize |
#6
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How about trying spikes on the front as opposed to staggereds? (But dont trust me......I'm a noob)
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#7
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Cheers for the reply guys.
I'll give the suggestions a go and see what comes from it. Anyone know what the part number is for the 3degree rear toe block as I can only find the 3.5degree and more!
__________________
Norfolk Buggy Club- Norfolk's 1/10th and 1/8th Premier Off Road Model Car Club in association with BRCA East of England 1/10 Off Road Regional Racing JemmettFox- Accountants and Business Advisors Click any of the above to head to the website! |
#9
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I really need to know more about set ups. i sort of just chuck it on the track and race it........
oh well.......................... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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XB4 & MORE , Team Xray, Team Gainsy Graphics, DPP Racing 2013 & 2014 OOPLE INVERNATIONAL BEER RACE RUNNER UP! FEEDBACK LINK =
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#10
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I think that's the problem today, instead of experimenting and finding out what works and what doesn't and how particular changes relate to your driving style or track conditions - people are too ready to just log onto a forum, ask what set-up other people run, and blindly follow it not knowing whether it's even relative.
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