rear suspension arm

[robsm]

Had my 22 rtr literally 10 seconds and the rear arm broke, cant beleive it. Very low speed knock from another car, my 22 wasnt even moving. Glued it back together but only lasted about 3mins before it snapped. Not impressed with the quality of plastie. Are there any stronger options out there? This really was a very low speed impact, and for a car with such a racing pedigree i had expected better. Any advice or should i just replace with stock parts? Cheers

[Razer]

Originally Posted by robsm

Had my 22 rtr literally 10 seconds and the rear arm broke, cant beleive it. Very low speed knock from another car, my 22 wasnt even moving. Glued it back together but only lasted about 3mins before it snapped. Not impressed with the quality of plastie. Are there any stronger options out there? This really was a very low speed impact, and for a car with such a racing pedigree i had expected better. Any advice or should i just replace with stock parts? Cheers

The stock arms from the kit are solid as hell, so it might be that it's a different material used in the rtr. Replacing it with the stock TLR 22 arms should sort it.

[atsang]

Originally Posted by Razer

The stock arms from the kit are solid as hell, so it might be that it's a different material used in the rtr. Replacing it with the stock TLR 22 arms should sort it.

I second that!!! my 22 has had some abuse and in all fairness i have had to replace one of the rear arms but the amount of abuse that it got was unreal like my 22 has had a very bad roll through its horizontal axis so every arm wheel got a real bad bashing and i can safely say i cant fault the plastics

[jaywestwood]

Third that... Car is mega strong

[Gnarly Old Dog]

So much depends on many variables including ambient temperature, the angle of the knock, the impact speed (as mentioned by the original poster) and the resistance to the impact speed (does the car slide on a low grip surface or does it resist the impact on a higher bite surface like long grass or astro) that in many instances, there is simply no rhyme or reason to why an innocuous impact can break a part when a much heavier impact seems to impart no damage.

It won't make robsm feel any better but I only broke 1 rear arm in over a season's use with the 22 - and I didn't even realise it had broken until I stripped the car down afterwards as part of my post-race maintenance.

I also ran for nearly the entire season last year on 1 servo horn and then broke 2 in the space of 2 meetings. No explanation - other than I did clip something on each occasion - but no harder than I normally clip things

The car is proving to be very strong but almost anything will break and often, in the most innocuous of circumstances.

There would be no reason why the RTR would break any differently to the TLR kit - if a different plastic is used (and I'm not sure that one is), then often the RTR plastics are more flexible as they tend to have less glass filled content in their composition.

Like I say - it won't make you feel any better but I think you were very unlucky. The 22 platform is amongst the strongest of cars in its class but sometimes these things do happen. It's of scant consolation but you should at least be able to pick up a spare part quite easily from one of the many Losi / TLR stockists around. At least it'll help you get back on the track quickly.

[woOdy]

I had a head crash with a Durango 410 indoors on carpet and I came off the winner as the Durango shock broke and got oil all over the track

[Frecklychimp]

The 22 is an incredibly strong car compared to others on the Market, I did a couple of rear wishbones a year ago when first getting used to the car... After 12 years away from hobby but that was using too much throttle and clipping a safety fence at speed with back wheel.

As Gnarly said, if you clip anything at a certain angle and force you will break something, but compared to other cars that break or bend expensive chassis when it goes wrong, a wishbone is a cheap and easy fix compromise and something worth carrying in the spares box for any car.

Very rare I've seen 22's carried off track with parts hanging off.

Stick with it as they are an awesome car when you get a good set up and used to the way it drives

[robsm]

Thanks for the replies. Have to say it did handle nicely, no matter how hard I turned it didn't flip. I am used to HPI firestorm and rustler, which spend 80% of their time cart wheeling around.

It has to have been a duff part or something, I was stopped on gravel at the time.

Anyway ordered some replacements from wheelspin, see how long these ones last me.

Fingers Crossed!

[Frecklychimp]

It was probably a bad luck thing matey,

Haven't seen a 22 RTR but wouldn't have thought that Losi would use different cheaper parts, may have been a weak part, all manuacturers get the odd poor moulding or defect... its the nature of plastic manufacturing and all r/c cars have parts made out of house and get quality issues.

I've had some high speed cartwheels and impacts where i've been taken out or got an obstacle wrong and have been surprised that the car is still in one piece and can carry on!

If you are bashing with it you may want to consider titanium turnbuckles as the 22 standard ones can bend in hard impacts but overall its a strong bit of kit.

Traxxas cars are built like proper tanks, bounce off most things without breaking and incredibly strong but what you get in durability you lose in performance as the 22 would out handle any traxxas car head to head in racing

If you need any help with the 22 just give us a shout, plenty of good sound knowledge on here.

[Ruffy]

I believe it is the RTR arms.
My original TLR22 (Not RTR) has always been strong and nothing broken even after hard wrecks which I found impressive. As the arms began to develop a little slop I decided to replace them with new arms I had bought on ebay from an RTR kit, feeling they had to be the same material. Well the RTR arms did not even last one full day of practice and wrecks over some big jumps, both of them splitting open from the inner hinge pin hole.
So my conclusion is that to save money on the RTR injected parts, they may have used some "cheaper" material that breaks quite a bit easier than the real 22 race vehicle parts; or it was purely bad luck for me too.

Afterwards I replaced the arms with over the counter 22 rear arms and they are still going strong, just like the first set which are still good, just a little sloppy on the hinge pin holes (and threaded shock hole) after over a year of racing.
My advice, stay away from the RTR plastic parts as much as possible just in case the material is different.

[robsm]

That's the inherent problem of not taking cars to a track I guess, you tend to attempt stupid things

One thing I don't like about this RTR is the steering servo, and the annoying delay in the acceleration/stop/reverse. My HPI isn't like that, the traxxis is really bad for it as well. Steering has no response.

I wish shops had build recommendations for clueless idiots like myself. I would have bought the kit, but have no Idea what to put inside it.

[robsm]

Originally Posted by Ruffy

I believe it is the RTR arms.
My original TLR22 (Not RTR) has always been strong and nothing broken even after hard wrecks which I found impressive. As the arms began to develop a little slop I decided to replace them with new arms I had bought on ebay from an RTR kit, feeling they had to be the same material. Well the RTR arms did not even last one full day of practice and wrecks over some big jumps, both of them splitting open from the inner hinge pin hole.
So my conclusion is that to save money on the RTR injected parts, they may have used some "cheaper" material that breaks quite a bit easier than the real 22 race vehicle parts; or it was purely bad luck for me too.

Afterwards I replaced the arms with over the counter 22 rear arms and they are still going strong, just like the first set which are still good, just a little sloppy on the hinge pin holes (and threaded shock hole) after over a year of racing.
My advice, stay away from the RTR plastic parts as much as possible just in case the material is different.

This is exactly where mine broke!

Could be some truth to it.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by robsm

That's the inherent problem of not taking cars to a track I guess, you tend to attempt stupid things

One thing I don't like about this RTR is the steering servo, and the annoying delay in the acceleration/stop/reverse. My HPI isn't like that, the traxxis is really bad for it as well. Steering has no response.

I wish shops had build recommendations for clueless idiots like myself. I would have bought the kit, but have no Idea what to put inside it.

100% agree with you on the Steering Servo - IMO it's such a key aspect to the whole driving experience that it can be frustrating if the response speed does not match your expectations - and it's often a part that RTR designers struggle with in order to keep costs comparative with their competitors - because the value of a more expensive servo is not always understood until after the point of purchase.

The good news is that you can fit a decent servo for not a lot of money these days but - be aware that the more powerful servos on the market (like the race spec ones) can draw a lot of current to operate and this causes the BEC circuit (which delivers the power to the servo and Rx) to drop out as it is unable to cope. With the 22 RTR Esc, you have a 1A BEC circuit so don't try fitting a big high torque digital servo else you will end up having to upgrade even further.
You can fit a mid-range servo - like the Spektrum S6000 (£19.99 RRP) or S6010 (£27.99) and these will give an appreciable improvement on performance and feel without causing any BEC / ESC issues.

As for the forward / Brake / Reverse delay- they do that generally to help protect the motor - not great for when you want to do Starsky and Hutch style J-turns but I guess there's a logic behind what they do. For racing, you should be able to reset that ESC to Forward and brake only - and you'll find that much nicer.

As for clueless idiots and modelshops. Don't put yourself down - there's a host on support available but it's often tricky to sort the good from the bad - especially if your main source of info is the internet. That said, there are some really good-meaning souls here on Oople and some very very good specialist UK RC shops who often post support on here. I'll let them and the wider oople populous advise you on who they are but you will find decent support and very good model shop support - certainly if you are uk based.

Otherwise, get down to a local club and ask around down there. you'll find everyone has an opinion and there are countless experts (again, sometimes hard to sort the wheat from the chaff) but we all have one thing in common - a love for racing toy cars