Weak parts/common breaks on TRF201

[Origineelreclamebord]

Hi everyone,

I don't have spare parts for my TRF201 yet, and it's something I'd like to have in the long term. I'd like to spend my money efficiently though, and spend money on parts that are the most common to break/damage/wear down on the TRF201. I heard from Wildwillydriver that he had yet to break something on his car halfway down the racing season, but inevitably something will break, no matter how tough it is (which I'm sure it is).

So... What parts do you most commonly break on your TRF201?

[msxmre]

Hi m8, been running mine for 18 months and only broke a front wishbone which wasn't my fault. Cars been very reliable and very strong. I bought a load of spares for it that have never been opened. Over the moon with the car.
Scotty....

[Donutt]

I'd say idlers can go, but I replaced mine with Kyosho idler from RB5 and it's been 100% since. RW do one too, and I'd buy that since his stuff is ace.

I did have a strange breakage - front bulkhead that goes above the steering - L10 in Section 19 of manual. Must say tho, that I suspect it may have not been bolted down tightly enough and broke on a landing sometime. Sorry I can't be specific about how it broke; I didn't realise till it was rebuilt a few days later, and I don't recall any major impacts during that day's racing. So that might be my fault!

[Ray Kindstrom]

I've broken 1 front reinforced arm in 40 races. Tamiya has some amazing plastics!

[muratti]

Ok guys, your driving must be much much better than mine because i have broken way more than you in total!
Nevertheless this car is very strong, most common breakage is the front arms, but i must admit there are lots of trees near to my track!
I managed to break the front tower when i landed bad on huge table jumps and that is the only weak part on the 201 in my opinion. If you crash and break the front tower it always breaks the big front part where it is mounted, too. It is the L- parts and if you can find them (Seidel have it in stock) it is rather expensive because the front shock tower is on another tree with the rear tower. So breaking this parts is about 22 Euro every time. Here are the links so you know what i mean:

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index...kung-vo-TRF201

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index...Dämpferbrücken

[Origineelreclamebord]

Thanks for the replies

Interesting mention on the L10 part: I broke mine yesterday. I was driving in the 'dark' (parking lot lit by huge lights at night), when I lost focus due to... something! Anyway, that was no problem with the 3000kV I in my previous buggy, but at 4600kV my TRF201 went head on for a kerb (luckily not at full speed or when acceleratign).

First of all, I feel pretty stupid that it happened! I expected a total massacre, but when I arrived I was surprised to see that the front suspension was in one piece! The body post on my L10 part broke and it made a small tear at the body post hole in my body. On inspection only the L10 parts seem to be the victim, but after the crash the car felt awkward (understeer to the right, oversteer to the left). I thought the chassis tub might be out of shape, but the wheelbase is good and it seems both wheels are hitting the ground at the same time when lowering the front.

After the rebuild I'll give it another test run today, and I'll keep clear of kerbs next time! If there are more people willing to share their breakage info, it's more than welcome!

Update: I took it for a 2 minute spin on the same spot before school: The cars seems ok right now. Same handling characteristics to both sides and seems no different than before. So I guess I got lucky and only the L10 part is damaged

[Jamesk]

I have only broke two lower arms and one front shock tower, and had a couple of large end over ends with no damadge. I upgraded the gearbox gears and added tungsten diff ball, which has proved very duriable and not need any rebuilds yet.

I have in my box 4 lower arms (from my DB01R) and front axels and hubs etc but they are still in the wrappers. I find Rc Mart very quick with delivery when the worse happens, quicker than UK people usually.

jk

[GRIFF55]

I only ever broke one rear arm and bent one of the early front ones, that's it!
I would carry wishbones and towers as spares, should be ok then

[muratti]

Oh yes i forgot to mention that: no worries about the idler gears, i am pretty sure RW does neat stuff but it´s just not necessary. Tamiya upgraded the gears and they are as tough as any others manufacturers are.
If you buy the first batch kit without body you will have to buy 54262, these are the reinforced ones:

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index...F201-verstärkt

If you buy the upgrade kit you will have these included as well as a body, lightweight motor plate (which is not my first choice, buy 54276 this ones seal better and is thicker) and a funky carbon battery plate:

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=5667

Stella models has the BEST service when it comes to packing a car. This is for sure!

[DCM]

Carry the usual spares, I have had mine since release, and I have tried really hard to break things, but as such, nothing.... that I can remember!

[Origineelreclamebord]

Originally Posted by muratti

Oh yes i forgot to mention that: no worries about the idler gears, i am pretty sure RW does neat stuff but it´s just not necessary. Tamiya upgraded the gears and they are as tough as any others manufacturers are.
If you buy the first batch kit without body you will have to buy 54262, these are the reinforced ones:

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=54262&name=Diff--u.Zwischenzahnrad-TRF201-verstärkt

If you buy the upgrade kit you will have these included as well as a body, lightweight motor plate (which is not my first choice, buy 54276 this ones seal better and is thicker) and a funky carbon battery plate:

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=5667

Stella models has the BEST service when it comes to packing a car. This is for sure!

I ordered my car from Stellamodels... It was the last of the kit without body, and not listed on the website because it had a damaged box. I got 10% off of their already low price (lowest I could find for a TRF201 ). The money I saved was used for ceramic diff balls, thrust bearing balls and reinforced gears - so no worries there Awesome packing job indeed! The box was already damaged, but they packed it like they were shipping porselain, really nice!

I recently replaced the motor mount after one of the threads was busted during re-assembly - I don't tighten stuff up far (A. I pretty much lack the power to do so and B. It's not my style to do it), so I was surprised that it happened. :P Anyway, I ordered the hopup motor plate with the locating edge/rib for the motor cover, it's a much nicer cover and I wanted one for the long term anyway.

So my car has already got the basic hopups that solve the small issues on durability that the car did have as stock, it's now just the driving skills that are letting me down.

Tomorrow I'll be going to a track to look at a Short Course raceday - I want to drive there soon and if all goes well I'll become a member there. It would take care of the kerb-problem...

[Nissemon]

The L10 part is also available in plastic from the DN01. This is what the TRF team uses on their cars (can be seen in photos, shiny look compared to the carbon reinforced stock piece). The stock motor plate and the lightweight one is made out of cheap aluminium and will bend and strip very easily. 54276 is the motor plate that is made out of proper material and is up to normal tamiya standards.

[Quantra]

So far I have broken 1 front wish bone, 1 idler gear (white tamiya, not rein), 1 lower shock eyelet (front). I also stripped the threads from the original motor plate.

My wing mounts are a bit bent too and had to use some long screws to stop them coming loose every run.