TRF502x: Excessive play in front wheels/hubs

[Netmav]

Hi guys.

I finished building my new TRF502x yesterday, and I gave it a try around on my floor. First of all, I LOVE this car!

But I noticed that I have some play in the front. The front wheels are nowhere near as "tight" as the rear wheels, and as a result, they "wobble". This makes it very difficult to set it up as I want to, because If I set in to i.e. 1 deg. of neg camber, and give the car a tiney sideway push, I have 2-3 deg. of neg camber..

I have the optional 12 deg. Alum Caster blocks.

Anyone else experienced this? How can it be sorted out? I would love the front to be as "tight" as the rear.

Cheers.


\Martin

[DavidAMS]

are you sure they are on the hex? it can be difficult to get the wheel to fit the hex and tighten it up, you should not be able to see the hex when the wheel is tightened up..
hope you get it figured out

[Netmav]

Hi David

Thank you for your reply.
Yes, they are on the hex.

To be honest, when I remove the front wheels and "wiggle" the drive shafts (that part of the CVD that protrudes from the carrier), it actually feels like the ball bearings are i little too big (innder dia.). So the bearings don't "hold" it as tight as they should/could..?
I suspect that this might be the cause of the problem..

Is there an option part to the standard plastic front carriers available that fits this car?

Thanks again.
Cheers.


\Martin

[DavidAMS]

ok and is the bearing the correct size for the carrier, maybe it got confused with another one. measure it up to be sure.

can you take some pics or get some video of the problem?

[Netmav]

I only compared the bearing against the 1:1 "picture" in the manual, so I'll measure it when I get home from work tonight, to be sure.

I'll try to take some pics and/or video of the problem as well, when I get home tonight.

Thanks for trying to help me. I really appreciate it.

Cheers.


\Martin

[Netmav]

Here's a link to video of the problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b884uhcN5C8

I measured the bearings, and they are the correct ones.

Cheers


\Martin

[DavidAMS]

i use 3 shims behind the hex to solve that..

[Matt Butcher]

yep shim between the hex pin and bearing to remove any play

[Netmav]

You guys are geniuses!
I'll give that a go, and see how it turns out.

David: What thicknes shims do you use on yours?

Thanks guys!

Cheers


\Martin

[HeavyD99]

At our club we call it "Tamiya slop" - it doesn't really affect the buggy very much when moving - but looks and feels awful on the bench.

When the buggy is moving forward, the wheels straighten up and it tracks well - if everything on our buggies was super tight, and had no slop at all, they'd never run straight! a few shims seems to help.

[DavidAMS]

Originally Posted by Netmav

You guys are geniuses!
I'll give that a go, and see how it turns out.

David: What thicknes shims do you use on yours?

Thanks guys!

Cheers


\Martin

the thinest you can find. not sure the size but i was able to get 3 behind the hex.

[Netmav]

Thanks guys!

I was able to fit 2 x 0.2mm shims behind the hex on both sides.
It helped a lot!

But I also noticed a small amount of slop between the caster blocks and the lower arms. Nothing much to do about that, I guess.

Time for the first real test of both my TRF201 and my TRF502x tomorrow!

Cheers


\Martin

[DavidAMS]

a bit of play is normal in the caster blocks, you need the 0.1 shims.

[hloland]

You can use KYO96641, Kyosho 3x5mm shims,
between the caster blocks and the lower arms.

[Netmav]

Thanks guys.

I've used shims on the shafts that joins the caster blocks and the lower arms, so they can't move forwards or backwords on the shaft, but the play seems to be due to the holes in the lower arms are a little to big, so the shafts can move a little around in the holes. It's not much, but it's very noticable when you "amplify" it out to the edges of the wheels (I'm not sure that sentence made much sense, but it's the best I could do )

Cheers


\Martin