TLR 22 - Oswestry Set-up's

[jcb]

Dont suppose there are any setups available from the TLR guys that ran at Oswestry?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Blimey Jon give us a chance, I've still got to get the layers of mud off of my car to work out what I ended up on

I will be sorting a setup sheet for my rear motor car ASAP. All I can remember right now was going to a Pink Rear Spring and just using loads of blue tack to help waterproof things

Was thinking of cracking out the ProBoat at one point...

[jcb]

I appreciate it's a bit soon after a muddy weekend, just asking while I remember!!

[Delves]

Hi

Here is my Mid-Motor set up from Oswestry at the weekend. Have to say I was pretty happy with my car, especially in the dry 1st round. Im sure Andy will get his Rear-Motor set up on here soon though for all to see

HTH

[NTS]

Originally Posted by Delves

Hi

Here is my Mid-Motor set up from Oswestry at the weekend. Have to say I was pretty happy with my car, especially in the dry 1st round. Im sure Andy will get his Rear-Motor set up on here soon though for all to see

HTH

Thanks for the setup. Two questions:

1. When you say "rounded edge of piston" is that both edges or just the bottom edge? Oh and how much, small rad, half piston thickness, full piston thickness?

2. I presume you ran the ball diff?

Nick

[Delves]

Originally Posted by NTS

Thanks for the setup. Two questions:

1. When you say "rounded edge of piston" is that both edges or just the bottom edge? Oh and how much, small rad, half piston thickness, full piston thickness?

2. I presume you ran the ball diff?

Nick

Hi Nick

I round both edges of the piston to improve small bump performance. In terms of how much, it's a small amount of around 1mm... basically trying to model the old Losi pistons. And finally, yes I did use a ball diff

Chris

[millser]

anyone got bloomfields setup that used in the wet ????????

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Here's my rear motor set up from the National.

In the end, I was fairly happy with it - upping the rear spring to a pink helped keep it stable on corner entry but with the conditions as they were, it was all I could do to get it clean for the next run.
Next time out, I'd probably run slightly thicker oils to help control things a bit.
Other than that, it drove sweet and was great fun sliding into the corners with a flick of opposite lock

EDIT - the sheet should say position 2 on the rear tower not 3

[RDG 40]

B interestin what mods u do where and when ??

When do team drivers use long link mod
Do u run motor brace screws out when
What do you do to change from dry to wet in shower to gain grip asap
Weight when?

I jus find i have a good set up now jus if conditions change i dont know what to change ie grass goes to dusty grip loss what do u guys do to adapt

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by RDG 40

B interestin what mods u do where and when ??

When do team drivers use long link mod
Do u run motor brace screws out when
What do you do to change from dry to wet in shower to gain grip asap
Weight when?

I jus find i have a good set up now jus if conditions change i dont know what to change ie grass goes to dusty grip loss what do u guys do to adapt

Difficult to accurately answer this because so often, the set up evolves and each element is inter-dependent on others but in answer to your above questions - here goes:

Long Link - Essentially makes the front end less aggressive. Drivers who have done this use in it high traction conditions when it can otherwise feel overly nervous around the front end.

Motor Brace Screws - Some have them removed, others fitted. Personal preference. It enhances flex in the rearward section of the chassis to improve rear traction. Personally, I didn't like it and so I run with the screws fitted. Any flex induced in this manner is inherently uncontrolled - thus I felt it made the car slightly number but more unpredictable. Very subtle difference though.

Weight - Most will add weight as the grip comes up. Weight under the battery space is very central to the overall bias of the car and so it does not affect the FR/RR distribution much. During testing, I found that adding weight when it got grippy made the car easier to drive. I did not need to add weight when the traction was low curiously.
I run the Rudebits side pod weights as this helps the car settle in off camber sections faster. I also keep the TLR rear weight kit in my box but only tend to use it when it gets dusty.

Setup changes as the conditions change.
Very tricky. If the grip is going away, I would begin to change the wheelbase by shortening the rear hubs on the a-arms. In extreme conditions, I would move the rear outer link position in-board to increase camber gain.
At the front, I tend not to change too much. Maybe raise the inner ball stud position to help keep the nose in the turn longer when the grip is diminishing.
Changing AntiSquat or Rear Toe is something that is tricky to do in a rush trackside with the Mid Car - so I normally don't deviate too much away from a 2.5 deg A/Squat and 4 deg rear toe with the mid car (rear car is much easier to work on in this regard).

TBH, running on the right tyres at the right time make the biggest impact. I tend to make my car fairly neutral to drive and just try to balance by throttle eagerness with constant forward motion :-)

HTH

[jcb]

Cheers for the replies some useful pointers for when I race at Colchester at the weekend. As has been stated would be interested to see what Woody and Bloomfield ran if it's availble at some point.


In reply to RDG 40, If it's a quick shower just before I go on I find that with my base setup on my mid motor'd 22 I tend to change tires and if I feel unsure as to how slick it will be is to put the rear weight kit on. It can make the 22 push when exiting the corner, but I find it makes it very safe to drive.

[Robby]

Originally Posted by RDG 40

B interestin what mods u do where and when ??

When do team drivers use long link mod
Do u run motor brace screws out when
What do you do to change from dry to wet in shower to gain grip asap
Weight when?

I jus find i have a good set up now jus if conditions change i dont know what to change ie grass goes to dusty grip loss what do u guys do to adapt

TBH - find a set-up that works for you, under the circumstances you're most often racing, and then change tyres to address changing conditions.

[RDG 40]

Thanks gnarly

I have found for us meer mortals running one tyre less than norm helps loads, wen most run a spike run stagger, or if green run yellow etc etc

Indoor its controlled mini pins all round so il either go back to speartooth or im hoping that the truck block will help take front end away