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#1
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Hi guys... I'm due to get my 22 next week and cant wait!
but few things i wanted to ask people in preparation for when I get mine... Firstly, why are so many people wiring their car so that they squeeze their speedo and receiver together upfront behind the servo instead of mounting the speedo on the specially designed plate covering the motor (this is for the mid motor build - I'm from UK so this is what I'll be running). Having motor wires sprawled all over the car looks messy as apposed to the simple neat and tidy way of having short motor wires with the speedo at the back of the car! Is it for weight distribution or is there a problem with speedo clearance on the bodyshell if you run it at the back??? or is it simply because this is how all previous mid motor cars have been wired? And also, I'm unsure of what electrics to get! I had to sell up a lot of my kit at the end of last year so I have the joy of replacing them for this years outdoor season with the 22. Last year I ran a 6.5 brushless motor with a Nosram Pearl Evolution, and Vampire 4400 40c Lipos and I found this to be very driveable and competitive. However I'm now looking at buying the Pearl Evolution Version 2 with the additional boost and feel settings as this is the latest technology... but do I stay with 6.5 turn motor and buy new Lipo's with a 35/40c rating or do I go down on the motor to a 7.5 turn and go for the newer 60c lipos that are available??? I've been told that 6.5 turn with 60c lipo's is likely to be too agressive and so will be a right handful to drive! I would appreciate any advice that you have to offer..... Many thanks, Jon! ![]() |
#2
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The reason is because although the little plate is there for a reason, you can only fit really low profile/small speedos on the plate without it interfering with the bodyshell fitting, plus I have a pearl, and the receiver plug wire isn't long enough to stretch to the receiver. :/ plus you'll never get a fan on the speedo with it there.
various reason, but basically it is actually better down there. ![]() |
#3
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Thanks, Jon |
#4
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I'll be mounting mine on the motor plate, I'm running a Tekin RS which won't get in the way of the shell
![]() I think the car will work better with it out back too, more weight up back the better ![]()
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Schumacher • Phat Bodies Mendip R/C Raceway - Offroad Racing in South-West WORM-Racing - GT12 Racing in the South-West |
#5
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Same here. I am hopeful that my LRP SXX speedo will sit nicely on the motor plate and with a bit of clever wiring shouldn't cause an issue. Pics to follow tomorrow.
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#6
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Jonathan | Atomic-Carbon |
#7
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I've set mine the other way: I run a Speed Passion GT2 which is not huge, but too large to have both esc and receiver up front (especially due to the large power capacitor). After much playing around I found the best layout was the esc up front but the receiver mounted on the plate.
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www.wbmcc.com |
#8
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I've got a slimline savox servo, full size Spektrum receiver (on it's side) and still loads of room for speedo passion gt speedo all in the space up front, will mount the capacitor on the receiver. Hopefully have speedo soon and will upload pic
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PR Racing - Insideline Racing - Zen Racing - GForce - PureRC - Puppy Paint
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#9
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That would be great - I too use the slimline savox and spektrum receiver
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www.wbmcc.com |
#10
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Message me your email address and I'll send the picture of how i laid out receiver and see the space for the speedo
Paul
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PR Racing - Insideline Racing - Zen Racing - GForce - PureRC - Puppy Paint
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#11
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I've placed receiver on its side down the LHS, speedo went on the right with the solder terminals running along the RHS and capacitor on top of servo. Managed to get it all in without removing the battery brace.
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www.wbmcc.com |
#12
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PR Racing - Insideline Racing - Zen Racing - GForce - PureRC - Puppy Paint
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#13
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Low profile servos seem to be easier to install in TLR22...What are your recommendations?
Are Savox ones a good choice regarding fiability ? |
#14
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I got a savox low profile last year and it is brilliant. Strong and quick. What more is needed
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#15
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I ran my Lrp sphere comp on the motor plate, no heat problems at all, only thing was I filed a angle on the heatsink so it doesn't touch the shell. There is a piece in the top of the cab of the shell you can cut out to allow air to pass over the speedo when it's mounted here too
![]() Don't see the point in cramping everything up front, seems people are doing it because they can squeeze it all in for looks rather than function ? I've loads of room spare up front that gives me options for running either the new small lipo or saddles (they are different lengths) also I've lots of room for weight if I need to add any. Also with a low profile servo, I can run a full size stick lipo if I just pop the reciever on top of it ![]() |
#16
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Hi,
Uploaded for Paul Upton, shows the room available. Thanks Paul |
#17
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![]() That's with the Tekin RS, of course. I doubt that I'll be able to squeeze my SPX Zero into the front that I need for participating in the LRP Offroad Challenge.
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NRW Offroad Cup |
#18
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i find all your posts interesting i thought that its all about balance/handling. from my boring cars days that was our main goals. ive got servo up front, followed by receiver, batts, speedo on plate. I ve had to cut a triangle on left hand side of body shell and also roof to allow for the height of speedo......
Dan
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MARDAVE VRX CEC/REEDY/TEKIN/SANWA |
#19
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Not quite finished the build yet but fitted the electrics tonight. These pics might help one or two of you, plenty of room for the shell with this config.
Had to mount the pt a little further away from the receiver as i`d like to of done to prevent interferrence. Looking forward to giving it a run ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#20
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looks good dude! does the batttery stay put with straps on as the from bar is tother way round?
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