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#1
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Right, I seem to have tried most things and the blooming thing still doesn't have any low speed forward drive, it constantly wants to carry on going round.
I have tried Rear and mid motor moved the cells rearward in mid less and more anti-squat 6 hole, 4 hole, different springs and oils It is to the point where unless I start seeing any improvement, it is going to be sold, so unless I can get a marked improvement, it will be gone, and I don't want to do that, as I think the car is a good solid car, but it is pointless when your left as a sitting duck out of the corner. Any help would be appreciated.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#2
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i have made the most improvement by making the rear link as long as possible and no rings on the hub
no antisquat front silver spring (clay) and short link it has taken my son a couple of battery,s but now he has the thing under controle or changed his driving style http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...529/index.html its for clay dont know what you wil be driving but dont give up yet joey
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vroeger:kijk daar heb je joey nu:kijk daar heb je de vader van wesley & Dominique
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#3
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have you tried moving the rear shocks out on the tower?
i did so on mine last week and it was a big improvement in this area!!
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proracing Moss Models Associated Reedy DJ KIRKY |
#4
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Buy an Atomic Carbon Tardis Conversion Kit for your Losi 22..........the amount of Forward Drive/SideBite it gives you is Amazing!
Since I've changed mine to it, its like a completely different Car to Drive! ........feels very similar to a CR2, but Jumps better, has abit more Steering & takes the Bumps as if they were'nt there! ![]() |
#5
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I can't justify that expense without knowing first hand, it would make enough difference to the handling.
Steve, tried shocks in many places, I just can't generate enough rear end grip at low speed.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#6
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do you have any weight in the rear ran mine for the first time on tuesday night on wet grass had load of grip.
maybe you have too much punch on the speedo or slipper to tight? |
#7
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#8
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Will post a full setup, but from what I remember it is
Front Shock loc 2-middle 30wt, 55 - hole, red spring line 2 (0.75mm washer) kit outer. Rake 25' caster blocks 10' Rear Shock loc 2-inner 30wt 54 - 6 hole kit spring 4.5 HRC 1' anti-squat camber link 2-E SWB on hub 7.5 motor, linear profile on esc diff loose, slipper slips 2ft Cells turned 90' and moved rear weight under cells and motor Full wing Stagger yellows and yellow minispikes on the rear.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#9
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can you put show ya setup,or is it the A1 racing setup thanks |
#10
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try running 3 small spacers/washers under the ballstuds on the rear.
drop the oil in your rear shocks to 27.5 and go back to the kit LRC block |
#11
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My latest setup, few tweaks from last ones, my car has loads of forward traction, I wll always start with this setup and change things if needed from there.
Front Suspension Toe: 0' Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level Camber: 2' Castor: 5' Kick Angle: 25' Oil: 32.5w Piston: 3 hole 1.45mm tapered Spring: Green Spindle Type: Kit Shock Limiters: 2mm Shock Location: 2-middle Bump Steer: 0mm Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub Rear Suspension Chassis Configuration: Mid Toe: 4' Anti Squat: 1' Roll Center: LRC Ride Height: Driveshafts Level Camber: 3' Wheel Base: Long Oil: 32.5w Piston: 3 hole 1.55mm tapered Spring: Orange Shock Limiters: 0mm Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints) Shock Locations: 2-inside 170g of brass under 96mm lipo and rear losi weight @50g Front tyres: yellow staggers Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins Speed passion LPF Ocra 6.5t motor Savox slim servo
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PR Racing - Insideline Racing - Zen Racing - GForce - PureRC - Puppy Paint
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#12
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Front change caster to 3 or 5 degree blocks put a 2mm spacer on caster block ball stud 1mm on inner ball stud blue or black front spring Rear Link B2 no washers on hub 2mm on inner ball stud yellow or pink rear spring just try this at first before changing the shocks! if not try my A1 setup that i ran! |
#13
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![]() I start with my A1 setup at every track now! made C8 at the National at Kidderminster on Saturday only change was 4 degree Low LRC with 3 degree squt and .5mm spacer on rear hub 1.5mm on inner front ball stud |
#14
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Nick, do you have a link to your A1 setup please?
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#15
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#16
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I got my 22 yesterday, took up to my local track to have a go with it. i find the rear motor better for me but the same time the 22 feels like a xx4 to drive. it could just be how i got it setup but i was wonderin if you guys got the impression of a 4wd off it?
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EAT, SLEEP & RACE. Keeping fast motors reving hard. signed...migsy racing made better by Losi, Team Xtreme, HPI BAJA 5B. novak, castle creations, trak-power lipos bantam B6 and my SMR nicely done by huski sport uk. ![]() www.the-pred.co.uk RC BEARINGS 4 U. Club 22 (admin) Losi22, losi xxx cr losi xx-4, losi xxx-4G baja 5b 30.5cc. |
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