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#1
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So I have my air brush, Compressor and a body shell, I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of my paint and air line. I've drawn up the design that I hope to achieve, I'll have a go at applying the fast mask later
![]() Anyway once the paints and bits arrive then I can crack on with ruining my-first shell. Wish me luck ![]() |
#3
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The 10's are curved, 10A are pointy sharp and 11's are like darts !
Personally I like to use 11's, I find the long pointy tip on the blade is further away and you can really see where you're going with it. Best thing is probably to get a pack of each and see what suits you, it mostly a personal preference thing. |
#4
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I'd never considered the 11A's but I see what you mean, less obstruction to follow your design! Nice one, have to give that a go...
I remember my first shell. Bits of mask left in it. Paint spidered all over the place, visible scalpel cuts, and then a disaster with the aerosol chrome attacking the paint. Lol Happy days.... ;-) Julian
__________________
Joo's Paint Kingmax Servos Optipower Yokomo |
#5
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julianb.
That is what I see coming. ![]() Practice. The only school ![]() |
#6
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I've always used a straight edged blade for the last 17 years.
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#7
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When I started airbrushing someone had given me a couple of boxes of 10A's so that's what I used, it wasn't until I started college about 5 years later I realised there were other ones available ( well before the internet - it's so easy now ! ).
My tutor who was an airbrush god said he used 11 so i tried them, he told me about seeing the tip of it and staying on your mask lines. We used to ink onto masking film with a .18 or .13 technical pen, he said it was better as you had less room for error than if you followed a pencil line which however sharp your pencil was still gave you room to wobble. To be hones that's something I struggle with now. Working to the lines of even a fine marker pen aren't as accurate as I want them to be because your scalpel blade can wander within the width of the line, am I being too picky, I probably think I am.... ![]() Aside airbrushing at college we used to ink on film a lot, if we made a mistake we were told the curved blade was best to scratch out with as the pointy ones made furrows in the film. Tel - when you say a straight edge blade do you mean something deadly like a razor blade or a stanley blade or do you just mean straight edged scalpel blade ? |
#8
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get the RCS mask out Chef
![]() as for blades...as mentioned it is just personal preference. I use the no.10 another option you could try would be the no.6 i think. it is inbetween the curved n straight blade |
#9
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When you buy blades make sure they fit which scalpel handle you have, I know the Swann Morton No3 and No7 Handles take 10 - 10A and 11. I don't know what the No4 takes though.
That's another point, I have 2 handles, No3 and No7, the 7 is much thinner and easier to turn for corners than the fatter 3, so I have both on the go at the same time, the 7 has the newest blade in it for cutting masking, then if I need to cut a loose mask or anything else at all I use the 3 which is not as sharp, every time I put a new blade on the 7 I transfer it's blade to the 3 and the one on the 3 goes into my sharps box, it might seem a hassle but you keep an ultra sharp blade on your best one then and only use it for masks. |
#10
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i just use an old thin paintbrush handle with a slit in the end. then slide the blade in and use a small piece of acetate sheet or similar and a strip of tape.
haha...tight http://www.rcsgraphicworx.com/howto_liquidmask19.htm |
#11
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That's quite genius actually Jon !
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#12
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Half way through my first shell. Looking ok but I'll be better next time. Need to cut the fast mask a little harder, so that I go all the way through
![]() Fab product I think that with a lot of practice I may actually enjoy doing this. I'll get some photos up as soon as I'm finished. ![]() |
#13
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#14
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I've never used anything but the scalpel edge to lift and remove mask, it's what I did when I worked on illustration board so I've always stuck with it. You soon learn not to go too deep and dig into your paint
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#15
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I've been using a pointed dental tool to remove the mask. I think that i've gone too heavy on the shading
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#16
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You can't say that Chef and then not post photo's for us to see.
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#17
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i juts use a old airbrush needle which i slightly hooked at the tip, works a treat
__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#18
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Here is the Shell. Gone too dark on the shading for the peel should have used a different colour may be grey or light blue. Had a few issues with the fast mask as it is the first time I ever done this. I think that I've got the hang of the mask now. Loved doing this. I'm off to buy another shell next week to do more!
![]() Oh I missed a bit on the roof that i thought I'd painted until I unmasked the windows only to find that I hadn't. I'll see what I can do about that later. Honest opinions please advice and pointers all welcome please be honest. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Let me have it guys. |
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