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#1
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i have had a few accidents with my mad rat where the front end breaks easily. Is there any stronger front end parts available? If not what can i do to stop it breaking so easily?
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#2
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#3
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the problem is its a basic car and not designed very well sell it and get your self a second hand b4 you wont regret it!
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#4
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![]() Quote:
![]() Read the threads posted above about the issue. The madrat is a good car for the price... and BTW, I've broken less parts than my mates B4s |
#5
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it is good advice,why keep a car thats going to keep braking and not get very long run times because of it? dont need to read the advice already joined the annoyed owners club and went back to a b4 as i know there reliable and not made from cheap plastic.
if most people knew that you have to spend money on them to get them to the same strength as a b4 what do you think they would go for?cheap crud or a quality car made by a manufacture with a lot of car making experience behind them!
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#6
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Mad rat is a superb entry level car. The price point is spot on and will get many budget racers into the hobby which can only be a good thing. Yes I have broken a front plate but that was down to losing my cool with dodgy radio gear and ramming a wall at full tilt. In a year I have broken 1 rear hub (rear ended by a B4). 1 T-piece which was replaced by a cf one and a twisted motor mount, again beefed up with an upgraded one. In fact the mount buckled due to a badly set up diff coupled with my losi 6.5T.
Badly designed? Don't think so. The only reason I'll be driving it less than last year is my new Mad monkey and my B-max
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Durango DEX410 Tekin rs pro/x12 6.5T DEX210 with Tekin and 6.5T Schumacher Cougar sv2 pro Ansmann Mad Rat, Mad monkey, Macnum Tamiya FAV, Tamiya Hornet Tamiya Grasshopper, Tamiya Hotshot Ansmann X4SC, Ansmann X4SC pro |
#7
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To be fair the car is great I ran mine last Tuesday and there was not a single b4 in front of me the cars that beet me were al, mid motor and to be fair my x2c would have easily beaten a few more of them
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DO NOT BUY/SELL TO THIS USER. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
![]() There is nothing wrong with the cars design.I,ve recently seen a basic 45 quid Mad rat (no option parts) beat the best cars out there in a high class race.. Vega/Tamiya/losi22 etc Ask anyone who has been to Moto Arena recently will back me up on this. They are very a capable racing buggy,far from the "cheap crud" mentioned.
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Hobao H2 Pro xbox/ps3/Wii U : budge1972 (add me) ![]() |
#9
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but people dont realise yes the car may have been up front but that driver is good compared to other people!its never the car its all the driver!
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#10
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Thats very true,its not always the car its the driver,,,but that also goes for breakages as well as race wins
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Cobra Racing Products,Penguin Custom Bodyshells,Ultimate RC Workshop,RC Car Zone |
#11
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yep if you give a driver a ansmann mad rat and a b4 everything in it the same he should do the same with them but after driving them i know which car he would choose!
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#12
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If I was just starting out and I had identical lap times with both cars and could buy one of them, I'd get the far cheaper one 10 times out of 10. So would the majority new starters.
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Durango DEX410 Tekin rs pro/x12 6.5T DEX210 with Tekin and 6.5T Schumacher Cougar sv2 pro Ansmann Mad Rat, Mad monkey, Macnum Tamiya FAV, Tamiya Hornet Tamiya Grasshopper, Tamiya Hotshot Ansmann X4SC, Ansmann X4SC pro |
#13
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![]() Quote:
The Mad Rat ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Hobao H2 Pro xbox/ps3/Wii U : budge1972 (add me) ![]() |
#14
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If you are the type of driver who breaks a car each club night then it doen't matter what brand you own. I know a few incl myself who have a habit ripping the occassional wishbone, shock tower or shock off a car from ansmann to x factory even a durango.
As for the mad rat being cheap crud well i wish my x6 wishbones were as strong cos i've never seen one break! yes there are some issues but then so do all the other brands.
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Website: http://www.wbmcc.co.uk/bingham-model-raceway.html Schumacher Cat Xls, Rc10 Team(retired), Mardave Cobra, SST 98 Rally Car, TT02 Rally car, Wpl-c24 and Element Enduro builders kit #71 #deaddogracing Autocare, unit 5 candleby Court, Cotgrave NG123RT. |
#15
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For £45 you cant complain... Bearnings are the only must have for the car, shocks are a bonus... Id have a madrat over a B4 anyday! You could always try crashing less to stop it breaking it ch!ef...?
And savage, all the links will help... If your still havin probs take some pics and im sure we can point you in the right direction! ![]()
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Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374 |
#16
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youd be quite suprised to know that i am quite a good driver and dont crash that often unless i c0ck up or get taken out by some1 which is when my cars get broken,anyway back to the point you should have to be carefull when driving a car you want to have fun which means pushing the car to its limit not be carefull because its made from butter
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#17
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I cant believe its not butter!
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rb5, Mission, F109, F103, F104v2 titanium, F104v2 black, 2 FF01s, FF03, TA02, TA04ss, TA04r, TA05, TT01, TL01, trf 415, M01, M02, 2 M03s, M04, M05, M06, XEVO, DB01, T2R Pro, TC3, b3, SC10, RC10 R5, E Revo, MR4 TC, MR4 TC worlds, MR4 BC SP, Ym34, xxx-t, Mad Rat, Predator DTM, Holiday Buggy (red), H.B (blue), dt03. |
#18
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Im not the best driver and all ive ever broken is a rear shock tower and a hinge pin...? The car is far from being made of butter!
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Team Losi Racing, Horizon Hobby TLR 22 5.0, TLR 22X-4, TLR 22-4, 22-4 2.0 Atomic Carbon S2, S44, Vega B4.1 Trader feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19374 |
#19
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I've drive a B4, X6 and know a Xpro and TC02C.
With the new front part no problem, a do many krach and i don't brake it. And my best car was the Ansmann one ![]()
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Sorry if i don't speak english very well ... I'm french http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Ma...r_home_100.jpg http://www.racing-cars.com/ |
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