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  #1  
Old 25-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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Default DF-03 winter project : some questions

I decided to have some fun this winter turning a DF03 into a racecar. I know many people tried this already but since I can't find a serious race report (besides Jimmy's, but that was with an almost bone stock DF03) and given the fact that I just LOVE the DF03 concept, I decided to give it a try myself.

I got a TRF501X to race so it's not going to be disaster if all goes wrong, and I end up with a good basher/training/foul weather car.

So I went to the internet and ordered the following at my usual HK supplier :
  • DF03 Dark Impact kit (sorry for all the Keen Hawk fans, but the DI has a racier look )
  • 3racing chassis kit
  • 3racing universals
  • Tamiya slipper (will use B4 spur)
  • front oneway
  • 3racing CF shock towers
  • 3racing rear hinge pin brace
  • 3racing front hinge pin brace
  • Kanzen 3mm diff balls (OK, not from HK )
  • 3racing Ti turnbuckles

Now from what I've read, the main issues in turning the DF03 into a top class racing car seems to be the following :
  1. No anti-squad
  2. No castor in the hubs
  3. wheelbase 1cm too short.

Am I missing something ?

I'm going to try the car first with all the hopups and check a few things out for myself but I'm thinking about doing the following :
  • Use TRF501X front arms and hubs (have to check trackwidth)
  • Take my dremel and modify the rear gearbox so I can mount anti-squad hinge pin braces
  • eventually, making my own chassis based on the 3racing chassis but longer and more side-by-side cell friendly

If you guys are interested, I'll keep you posted on the progres

Just got a message from the homefront : the postman deliverd a big package for me !
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  #2  
Old 25-10-2007
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V-Rossi V-Rossi is offline
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Will you test it sunday in Arendonk?
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  #3  
Old 25-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-Rossi View Post
Will you test it sunday in Arendonk?
Propably, because astro is the surface I want to build it for. The TRF501X drivetrain suffers a bit on high grip astro and all the tracks in my area are astro.

It could take a while though.
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  #4  
Old 25-10-2007
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You may want to add the Df-03 hop up shocks to your project and the heatsink bars.
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  #5  
Old 25-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budgio View Post
You may want to add the Df-03 hop up shocks to your project and the heatsink bars.

Didn't mention it but I'll be using a set of AE B4 shocks. Those Tamiya plastic shocks are just a notch over "useless"

I forgot to order the heatsink bars. Thanks
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  #6  
Old 26-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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Well, I came home from work and look what I found. Let the project begin.
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  #7  
Old 26-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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First step : Modify some alu pieces of the 3racing chassis so it accepts side-by-side cells. I just wonder why 3racing made the chassis so it accepts only stick packs
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  #8  
Old 26-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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The kit went together like a charm ! I was pleasantly surprised to see that the typical "Tamiya slop" I always had on my tamiya's in the 90'ies is as good as gone !
anyway, this is how it looks after 1 night's work.
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  #9  
Old 26-10-2007
jamminj650 jamminj650 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefke View Post
The kit went together like a charm ! I was pleasantly surprised to see that the typical "Tamiya slop" I always had on my tamiya's in the 90'ies is as good as gone !
anyway, this is how it looks after 1 night's work.
Nice build.... I have to ask you how you made the decsicion to go with the df03. Did you research or look at other cars. I have been contemplating to either purchase the df03 or wait for the new DB01 Durga. Can someone help me make a desciion. I will be racing at a professional track. I have been running Pro 1/8 scale for 4 years and it's time for a break..... I want something that will not let me down... I want to run Tamyia and I don't want to spend the money on th 501X.
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  #10  
Old 26-10-2007
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right, few tipsters for you with regard to rear wishbone mounting.....

you either need to make a new motor plate to move the motor a little further forward and a little higher, to not do this will mean you can't get the front suspension block in... OR.... you can raise the whole rear gearbox to do the same. You will need to extend the chassis at the rear to accomodate the rear block.

I did ask them to do these things when they were making the conversion..... but hey... they ignored me.

I don't beleive the TRF suspension fits. But I think someone (3Racing?) are doing caster blocks for the front now.

Buy another set of tamiya front diff outdrives.... and use them on the rear!

Buy shims and shim the gearboxes!!!

I am sure there is more
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  #11  
Old 26-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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@ jamminj650 :

I chose the DF03 for its intriguing layout and the endless hopup abilities. It's just a project for me as I'll still be racing the TRF501X at our nationals. After all, I became vice-champion this year so I'm not complaining about the performance of the TRF. I'd say the Durga is a safer bet in terms of performance because of its proven TRF501X suspension.

@DCM :

During the build, I already figured the rear outdrives could cause problems in the longer term, so they will be included in my next HK order.

about the gearbox : having driven a ZX5 in 2006, I take GOOD care when it comes to gear mesh

The rear wishbone mounting : I'll be making a longer chassis this winter so I'll have a good look at the possibilities. Does Tamiya make something like the antisquad block on a Losi XXX CR ? The easiest option would indeed be to tilt the entire rear gearbox. I did this before as an emergency measure but it's a bit of a crude sollution.

Do you have some more info on the castor blocks ? 3racing and the other hopup companies all have alu blocks but they don't mention castor.

Just a thought : i noticed a slight sweepback on the front wishbones. I was thinking of flipping the wishbones back to front to gain some extra wheelbase. The shocks will be mounted on the front of the shocktower then.
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  #12  
Old 26-10-2007
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I shimmed up the front of the gearbox to get a little anti-squat. not much since I didn't want to raise the motor too much.
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  #13  
Old 26-10-2007
Rob H Rob H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefke View Post
I decided to have some fun this winter turning a DF03 into a racecar. I know many people tried this already but since I can't find a serious race report (besides Jimmy's, but that was with an almost bone stock DF03) and given the fact that I just LOVE the DF03 concept, I decided to give it a try myself.

I got a TRF501X to race so it's not going to be disaster if all goes wrong, and I end up with a good basher/training/foul weather car.

So I went to the internet and ordered the following at my usual HK supplier :
  • DF03 Dark Impact kit (sorry for all the Keen Hawk fans, but the DI has a racier look )
  • 3racing chassis kit
  • 3racing universals
  • Tamiya slipper (will use B4 spur)
  • front oneway
  • 3racing CF shock towers
  • 3racing rear hinge pin brace
  • 3racing front hinge pin brace
  • Kanzen 3mm diff balls (OK, not from HK )
  • 3racing Ti turnbuckles
Now from what I've read, the main issues in turning the DF03 into a top class racing car seems to be the following :
  1. No anti-squad
  2. No castor in the hubs
  3. wheelbase 1cm too short.
Am I missing something ?

I'm going to try the car first with all the hopups and check a few things out for myself but I'm thinking about doing the following :
  • Use TRF501X front arms and hubs (have to check trackwidth)
  • Take my dremel and modify the rear gearbox so I can mount anti-squad hinge pin braces
  • eventually, making my own chassis based on the 3racing chassis but longer and more side-by-side cell friendly
If you guys are interested, I'll keep you posted on the progres

Just got a message from the homefront : the postman deliverd a big package for me !
You are doing exactly what I am going to do over the winter, I am looking to make a lightweight racer out of the df-03 with new purpose made chassis.

I read some of your issues, I am new at this, interested in your comment chassis is 1cm to short?, what problems does this result in?, if you make the chassis longer presumably you will have to use a longer drive shaft, are these available. I have seen a kit conversion available fro 7 battery.
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  #14  
Old 26-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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After seeing some video's of the DF03 on track and also from feedback here on the forum and from Jimmy's review, I found the DF03 looks jitterisch driving out of corners. A longer wheelbase gives more stability.

Making a longer driveshaft isn't doo difficult if you can use a lathe. But I also noticed that the driveshaft ends of my Hopup shaft from Yeah Racing are attached with pins. So all I have to do is push out the pins, remove the ends and find some alumiunium tube of the correct diameter and I can make any driveshaft length I want.
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  #15  
Old 26-10-2007
jamminj650 jamminj650 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefke View Post
@ jamminj650 :

I chose the DF03 for its intriguing layout and the endless hopup abilities. It's just a project for me as I'll still be racing the TRF501X at our nationals. After all, I became vice-champion this year so I'm not complaining about the performance of the TRF. I'd say the Durga is a safer bet in terms of performance because of its proven TRF501X suspension.

@DCM :

During the build, I already figured the rear outdrives could cause problems in the longer term, so they will be included in my next HK order.

about the gearbox : having driven a ZX5 in 2006, I take GOOD care when it comes to gear mesh

The rear wishbone mounting : I'll be making a longer chassis this winter so I'll have a good look at the possibilities. Does Tamiya make something like the antisquad block on a Losi XXX CR ? The easiest option would indeed be to tilt the entire rear gearbox. I did this before as an emergency measure but it's a bit of a crude sollution.

Do you have some more info on the castor blocks ? 3racing and the other hopup companies all have alu blocks but they don't mention castor.

Just a thought : i noticed a slight sweepback on the front wishbones. I was thinking of flipping the wishbones back to front to gain some extra wheelbase. The shocks will be mounted on the front of the shocktower then.
thanx so much for the feedback. Wow.... I never got this much feed back while running 1/8 scale here in US.... I think Im gonna like this electric thing. I will go with the Durga to start then. If I do opt for the 501x... is there something about spending that much on the car that I will regret. I don't mind fixin....but I do mind every qualifier....
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  #16  
Old 26-10-2007
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DCM DCM is offline
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shim the gears on the box, makes it better running

use the trf suspension blocks is the best so you take the mounting off the gearbox and onto the chassis.
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  #17  
Old 26-10-2007
BelstenToo BelstenToo is offline
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You may have seen my DF-03 on the other conversion topic, but it's spec is
  • DF03 Avante mk2 (I always loved the original, but now have a DI shell on order)
  • 3racing universals
  • Tamiya slipper (have tamiya spurs)
  • front oneway
  • 3racing CF shock towers
  • 3racing front hinge pin brace
  • 3racing front hinge pin brace on the rear (see photo - it fits with no mods at all)
  • 3racing Ti turnbuckles
  • 3racing Ti screw set (no philips heads)
  • 3racing gearbox brace
  • 3racing motor plate
  • tamiya heatsink bars
I did have the 3racing chassis kit but wasn't that happy with it, so have sold it and bought the mono 7 cell chassis to increase the wheelbase and it comes with a longer driveshaft. I'm impressed with it for £16 inc shipping.
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  #18  
Old 26-10-2007
BelstenToo BelstenToo is offline
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And finally, now I've worked out how to attach them here's some photos!
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File Type: jpg PA260047.jpg (110.9 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg PA260034.jpg (105.0 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg PA260033.jpg (101.4 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg PA260040.jpg (97.7 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg PA260035.jpg (95.5 KB, 57 views)
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  #19  
Old 26-10-2007
BelstenToo BelstenToo is offline
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And some more. Please shout if you want me to delete them as I didn't mean to hijack the topic so much!
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File Type: jpg PA260043.jpg (104.2 KB, 55 views)
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  #20  
Old 27-10-2007
stefke stefke is offline
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good info obout the Mono 7 cell chassis. I had been thinking about it myself.

Question : is it made from a stiffer material compared to the kit chassis ?
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