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#1
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i have been running the B-MAX 4 Factory for a few race days now and quite like it but cant seem to get the diffs and slipper right. Mainly the diffs it seems either very tight but then notchy or feels good but then slips to much and as for the slipper just tight to the max while i try and get the diffs right. Anyone else having the same problems and more importantly has anyone have a solution.
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#2
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Had some issues with my diffs, the standard balls was uneven.
Changed to ceramic balls and used 800 and 1200 sandpaper on the diff rings and now they are soooper-smooth. For the slipper i have to run it real tight, if not it generates to much heat!
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ME & MY OWN WALLET RACING! |
#3
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have told a few time's already how to put the slipper together as it has a smal problem no one seems to find.
so take the slipper appart and take the slipper plates then. and the slipper outdrives? and than look that wen if you move the slipper plates over the outdrive that they are free. normaly there is a smal ridge of some kind thats exessif material on the plate's that makes it hard to set up or not at all. ones u dremel that out the slipper works perfekt. ow and how to set it to max without braking the dif gears. if your difs are build properly and the slipper sits than at his place you block one rear weel and hold the spur (so slipper top is of at that time) and twist the other rear weel. if the dif slips than u'r slipper is to ticht if the slipper slips way of its to loos. at the point the dif and the slipper slip at the same point U hitted the fastest point the slipper may be set. if U twist both weels U will see that the slipper is the only part that slips and not the diffs . hope this helps and sorry foor the poor richting. greets ps if U cant get it to work properly than send me a pm
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topspeed modelshop Ralls racing Rc-speedhouse Rude-Bits Serpent Fba section offroad chairman. |
#4
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I would definitely recommend buying ceramic diff balls, either from ghost rc or Vampire racing. I also bought better quality diff plates, I think they are from the BD touring car but I can't remember. I also got better ceramic bearings for the drive train to help with drive efficiency.
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Al |
#5
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Ceramic or at least carbide Tungsten balls. Makes a big difference in durability. And from what I read, your balls seem to be worn (need replacing).
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#6
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In my Bmax I have ceramic balls in the rear diff and standard balls in the front. The difference is amazing, the rear one is way way smoother and much more free without any slip. The front is just no where near as nice. Get some ceramic diff balls, replace the thrust race and rebuild, it should last for ages and be much nicer after that.
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Who needs talent when you have a Yokomo! ![]() |
#7
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I hate the ceramic one's get busted to simple.
tunksten carbide are way of bether and last a lot longer.
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topspeed modelshop Ralls racing Rc-speedhouse Rude-Bits Serpent Fba section offroad chairman. |
#8
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Either way, the standard balls aren't up too much, so upgrade to either ceramic or tungsten carbide. I wasn't sure it would make much of a difference until I did it.
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Who needs talent when you have a Yokomo! ![]() |
#9
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it make's a big difference .
and I sugjested tungston carbide becaus they last longer and slip a bit les than ceramic thats it nothing more nothing les. hope it helps
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topspeed modelshop Ralls racing Rc-speedhouse Rude-Bits Serpent Fba section offroad chairman. |
#10
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Well I stripped them down and changed the balls for ceramic vampire ones as well as vampire grease both diffs now not slipping and smooth as a baby s bottom SWEET
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