RB5 SP2 Spare parts to keep stocked

[slow coach]

Ok fellas just got hold of a fairly good nick RB5 SP2 want to know whats the best stuff to have in the parts box and what if anything needs upgrading.

Also whats a good starting point set up wise for Dirt tracks bit bumpy a couple of medium sized jumps and a bit loose on top.

last question wheres the best place for RB5 spares in the UK or anywhere for that matter but UK first choice.

Cheers Jason

[carlin]

Hi Buddy,

For spares can only say PBM racing or JE Spares either one best place.

I dont know of any other model shop that supports Kyosho as good as these two tbh.

Keeping spares in your box -

wishbones front/rear
front shock tower
spare slipper pads/spur gear

Thats all i have got in my box but i aint planning to break anything Also i havent been running mine long enough to need any spares just yet

[tsan]

In the 2 years I've been running mine, the 4 most common things that break on my RB5:

1) Shock tops (the black/plastic eyelet things)
2) T-plates
3) Rear uprights
4) Front bulkhead

Also, having some extra gears on hand is a good idea too.

[RogerM]

tsan you must be hard on cars mate .... RB5 is bomb proof!

I also defy anybody to break the kit front tower ... I know somebody who has done a rear but never a front!

As Carlin said, wishbones, front steering parts, rear uprights (unless you upgrade to 516-0s ... love to see you break those and a set of front shock shafts for other people driving into you (although probably not a problem until next years F3s )


Kyosho cars are easily the strongest out there at the moment IMHO.

[slow coach]

still wondering whats set up would be good for dirt.

JE spares dont list the RB5 at all

PBM how do you order online ??

MK racing i had heard would be stocking but nothing yet


have got a little bit of time still before next race so can wait a little bit got to install all the electrics and things anyway.

also anyone know who might stock some losi ifmat studs or step pins

cheers jason

[RogerM]

Firstly if you ring or e-mail JE Spares (might be worth asking for Ryan to all the guys know Kyosho stuff fairly well) with your requirements and I am 100% positive they will do everything they can to help you.
I believe that they order from Kyosho most weeks so if they haven't got it in the shop it shouldn't take much longer to get hold of it.

When I last chatted with Ryan he had just got back from a holiday and was about to get cracking on listing up the RB5 stuff but you know what it's like when you get back to work after a few weeks off I'm sure


I have a question for you though .. where are you finding a dirt track to race on????

[slow coach]

its the only track we have over here

old bmx track but it needs a lot of work on it now, used to be in good shape but class has dropped in numbers and with it track work parties etc

http://www.grccc.org/photo2/index.html

[tsan]

Originally Posted by RogerM

tsan you must be hard on cars mate .... RB5 is bomb proof!

Saying I'm hard on cars is a bit of an understatement!
If there's a triple/quad jump, I'll go for it even if I know I shouldn't.

[RogerM]

Originally Posted by tsan

Saying I'm hard on cars is a bit of an understatement!
If there's a triple/quad jump, I'll go for it even if I know I shouldn't.

lol ... your sure driving the right cars then, bet your loving the way the FS flys.
Last time I had a model fly that nicely it was also a Kyosho ... a Concept DX helicopter

[tsan]

Originally Posted by RogerM

... bet your loving the way the FS flys.

I haven't had the chance to race my FS all that much yet. Just a tarmac race, and a very unsuccessful race day on a very rutted 8th scale track. Most of my ZX5 racing had been done with my SP. (Also a great flyer) We've finally got another carpet offroad race coming up in the next few weeks which I can hardly wait for.

[slow coach]

before i order any spares for the car have i got the right ones for the SP2

UM509 diff gear set
UM501 front bulkhead
UM519-2 rear hubs
UM119 diff rings
UM505B steering knuckle and c hub
UM521-1 fr and rr arms set
UM511 front tower

Optional UM516-0 alu rear hub with larger outer bearing obviously if i get these i wont get UM519-2

also what rear toe in does the SP2 come with as stock

cheers Jason

[RogerM]

Jason,

stock rear toe is 3 deg.

All looks ok to me on your list. Only thing I would add is a UM508B which includes the rear t-piece, rear hing pin holders, camber link bracket and gearbox case ... basically the rear of the car. It's about £10 IIRC and means that if you have a major crash you are covered.

Hope that helps.

[slow coach]

is the 521 the same as the 521-1 bar the shock mounting holes and what is preferred and is the 519 the same mounting points wise as the 519-2

I do find the parts a bit hard to follow for the SP2.

last one for now do you use the thin shins under the wishbone mounts as per the manual or not ?

[RogerM]

Ok .... here goes.

The 521 arm pack is basically the same rear arm as the LA243 we all ran on the RB5 before the SP came out. The problem for this was that LA243 came with an old old spec ZX5 front arm and the required rear arm, hence why loads of RB5 runners have masses of ZX5 front arms they give away to ready set runners at club.
UM521 solved that by placing the LA243 type rear arm in a pack with an RB5 type front arm so no waste.

UM521-1 is basically the same arm as 521 but it only has 1 shock mounting hole, this being between the two original holes. I hope that makes sense. Some people I know keep both in stock so they can make small adjustments (basically 1/2 a hole spacing) to the lower shock position, a tuning aid.

Although not absolutely correct if you use the rule of thumb that by changing the lower rear shock mounting point you change effective wheel rate by the equivelent of two spring rates. For example if you move from the inner hole on the 521 wishbone to the outer keeping a number #65 spring the wheel rate will be similar to that of a #75 spring on the inner hole so to put the wheel rate back to where it was you would need to use a #55 spring .... does that make sense?

For info the front is broadly similar, approximately 2 spring rates for per hole position as a rule of thumb ... again not exact.

The 519 and 519-2 are similar stories.
519 was the "high strength part" and 519-2 is the same part but with the camber link holes moved outwards by 1/2 a hole spacing, this means that the inner camber link hole on the 519-2 is half way between the two holes on a 519.

The ali hubs 516 have both sets of holes in, a bigger bearing and last forever ... job done IMHO.

The shims are there to give finer adjustment of the antisquat and hinge pin to diff relative positions.

Again not 100% exact but a guide;

RF and RR blocks no spacers or the same thickness spacers = 2deg antisquat
RF inverted, RR as kit (again no or same spacer) = 0deg antisquat

Each difference in spacer thickness give approx 1 deg antisquat change ..... for example RR and RF as kit with thin spacer under RF will give approx 3 deg antisquat. I will be honest and say I've not measured the spacers thickness and calculated the exact antisquats myself, something I need to do, so that info is 2nd hand I am afriad.

In case you don't know how to use the change in hinge pin to diff outdrive height here is the rule of thumb;

spacers under RR and RF raise the hinge pin closer to the diff = less side bite so easier to drive when grip is high.

Again, I hope that makes sense mate .. just ask again if not.

The Kyosho cars are just about the most adjustable out there in 1/10th at the moment and whilst that can be brilliant for those who know what everything does in combination with everything else can be a little confussing to some. I would suggest downloading Elvo's buggy setup guide (sorry no link but it comes up on google) as that explains most things in a sensible way.

Any further help just ask.

[slow coach]

Spot on thanks makes things much easier

[slow coach]

How do you get lipo to fit the screws for the t piece obstruct the case so it won't sit flush

[ApexSpeed]

Originally Posted by slow coach

How do you get lipo to fit the screws for the t piece obstruct the case so it won't sit flush

Flip it over and use it inverted. There are longer battery posts, too, that you might need, depending on your battery height.

[RogerM]

Jason, struggling to understand what you mean by "the screws for the t-piece".

If you mean the screws that go into the little lumps that protrude into the battery tray area they should be poking through the plastic and there is enough space between them for any BRCA / EFRA legal LiPo pack to fit (i.e. less than 47mm wide).

I can't say I have ever known anybody have a problem, infact they act as a retainer to stop the rear half of a saddle pack floating about

What pack are you struggling to fit in there? Is it on one of these;

http://www.brca.org/BRCA/elecboard/n...20v2%20pdf.pdf


http://www.brca.org/BRCA/elecboard/n...0v1%20pdf6.pdf

http://www.brca.org/BRCA/elecboard/n...0v1%20pdf3.pdf


???

Post a pic to show us exactly what you mean if you can please.

[Fabs]

Originally Posted by RogerM

Although not absolutely correct if you use the rule of thumb that by changing the lower rear shock mounting point you change effective wheel rate by the equivelent of two spring rates. For example if you move from the inner hole on the 521 wishbone to the outer keeping a number #65 spring the wheel rate will be similar to that of a #75 spring on the inner hole so to put the wheel rate back to where it was you would need to use a #55 spring .... does that make sense?

For info the front is broadly similar, approximately 2 spring rates for per hole position as a rule of thumb ... again not exact.

I have to disagree...

On the rear the difference between inner and outer hole is over 4 springs rates. To equate #65 on outer hole you need the #80 on inner hole, which is 5 rates up...

At the front, the difference is even greater, you cannot equate even the softest spring on the outer hole with the hardest spring on the inner hole, you'd need a spring that's at least 2 rates up to be able to do that.

Also the anti-squat with no spacers is 3 degrees. To get zero anti-squat you need to raise the RR hinge pin holder by 2mm

[slow coach]

yeah thats the ones i should of been more specific really its the plastic where the screw goes into, the lipo im trying at the moment is on the list 3rd page of the saddle packs GM V-MAXX 98994 which i have taped together for this apllication it may be the tape will check later on, i also have some other packs not tried them yet though

Saddle pack 1st page GM V-MAXX 98993 not tried at all yet
Stick pack 6th Page GM V-Maxx 98986 fits with some effort

OK just tried again quickly while typing this message the saddle does fit but it is VERY tight same for the stick pack it almost forces the plastic apart a touch to get in which cannot be good im going to try to take a sliver of plastic off and see if that helps, only other hassle is the stick has the moulded in cell lumps under which raise it up which makes the body clip holes tight but usable still just concerned that everything will be under a lot of stress because of the pack.

cheers Jason