|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
In the cat I have a LPF with a 5.5 motor at the moment.
Both have performed perfectly for almost a year together now with the occasional swap to the 6.5 or 7.5 track dependant. Last night at club I noticed after a run the green LED was flashing constantly. My dad running LPF+6.5 also has the same thing. The motor was temp gunned at 129 degrees in my dad's car. I wouldn't say mine was overheated at all. (20/81 with 23/33 gearing) I changed my motor for the other 2 and the green light doesn't flash. back with the 5.5 and it flashes again. The car performs awesomely with the 5.5 in, but would just like to know why it's doing it. The manual says when the ESC is overheated the flash will be *_*_*_ not 100% if this is the same as mine, but now the ESC is cold and it still flashes, plus it doesn't do it with the other motors. I have also reset my speedo back to defaults and the led isn't lit until I give it some throttle and it starts flashing again. Red LED comes on during throttle and braking as normal and green LED lights at throttle end point. Any ideas? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
sorry to jump in on your thread. I am running into the same issue as well.
And I find the motor is slow to accelerate almost like it is cogging. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Isn't the 5.5 too powerful for an LPF? I thought the max was 6.5 but I was recommended to go no lower than a 7.5 to be safe and avoid any issues.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
I've seen running the 5.5 for almost a year now with no problems at all on both of my LPFs Mine has ballistic acceleration. it's a bit weird at the very slowest speed though which it didn't do before. like it doesn't have enough torque to turn the spur |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I have had this problem twice and its the motorsensor that is giving up ! try cleaning it and at the same time check the soldering on sensorboard.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
This speedo has a 5.5t limit with 6 cell 7.2v batteries, and a 6.5t limit with 2 cell lipo's. We will change our text on the website accordingly, sorry for the confusion. Best Regards Mark Marshall Schumacher Racing |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
this cogging issue i think is sensor related as well. i had a 10.5 trinity motor new out of the box do this after 3 packs.
I would take apart the endbell and spray things out with motor spray and install a new sensor wire. Your swapping motors got rid of the problem so im thinking the issue is within your 5.5 motor. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I'll swap the sensor for the 6.5 and test then since it doesn't do it on the 6.5. the 5.5 is my oldest motor out of my V3 bunch. I guess this explains why my dad's 6.5 does it too.
Can't say I've ever had any problems running a 5.5 on the LPF previously, but if it does now I'll get a Pro to replace it. Probably makes sense now I have 5300mah 45C lipos lol |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Looks like a sensor problem or a sensor cable problem.
I ran an entire clubrace with a faulty sensor cable 3 months ago and hardly noticed it. I only noticed it on very low rpm, but is was a large track so that caused no problems. So I raced an entire day with the speedo insensorless mode. (GT2.0 Pro). |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
my money is on the sensor rather than the cable since it doesn't flash on the 6.5 and 7.5. I will replace anyway
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
G, I had the same thing... If the sensor cable is ok then its the sensor, but sometimes the rotor just needs shimming a bit closer to the sensor.... without anything actually being faulty. Give it a go
![]() |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I have the large one at the pinion end and 2 small ones at the sensor end. I'll try moving a small 1 to the other end though
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|