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  #1  
Old 20-08-2007
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Default Novak 3.5 from 4.5 Brushless

I raced a Novak 4.5 brushless this weekend for the first time since i bought it. It didn't seem to run to well, then it cut out. After checking all the connections that are perfect I took it apart. I also took apart my 6.5 motor to see if I could spot any differences and why it was making a funny tapping sound.

My 6.5 has black spacers around the shaft. My 3.5 doesn't. Is this correct?

Has anyone experience this problem before? The rating is 4.5 and the shaft was changed to a 3.5.

Any comments including "you're a noob but...." would be much appreciated!

Many thanks
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  #2  
Old 20-08-2007
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poss yuor 3.5 is a sintered rotor and your over geared hence the shut down.

changing a 6.5 to a 3.5 rotor will not alter the performance unless it being changed from a no sintered to a sintered, the windings are in the can
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  #3  
Old 20-08-2007
lazerboy lazerboy is offline
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Si senor, exactly correct. Was your motor or esc hot? if it was, you got saved a couple hundred dollars from novak. Being sensored it knows when the rotor is locked, over heating, spinning too fast, etc. use a 10 tooth or lower.
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Old 20-08-2007
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10 tooth?! the guy hasnt even posted what car he runs..
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  #5  
Old 20-08-2007
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yes, a 10 tooth pinion and 65 spur. good for a 3.5.
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Old 20-08-2007
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I was there with Mr Ben H on Sunday and can confirm:
  • The soldering and wiring was spot on.... because I did it!
  • The motor & speedo were not hot, so it wasn't thermalling
  • The motor shaft seemed stuck. You would turn on, hit accelerate but nothing would happen. You would give the pinion a turn by hand and then re try the acceleration and the motor would turn. It would turn very slowly and not smoothly.
  • We took the motor to bits and checked the bearings were free.
  • We tried different sets of cells
  • We compared the inside of the Novak brushless motor to that of another Novak brushless and found no differences other than the black spacers around the shaft.
  • We wanted to try and swap the shafts around.... but the pinion was stuck on one of them!
We just can't work out what is wrong?
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Old 20-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulRotheram View Post
10 tooth?! the guy hasnt even posted what car he runs..
He was running an XXT.
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Old 20-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zipper View Post
He was running an XXT.
was it damp weather ie damp sensor wire classic fault on brushless
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Old 20-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bert digler View Post
was it damp weather ie damp sensor wire classic fault on brushless
It sure was damp! That must be it then. I'll get him to test it now it's dry...
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  #10  
Old 21-08-2007
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electricity doesn't like water. so on your xx4 what's your spur? And as for my car it should be pretty obvious.(the one i'm getting anyway) Right now all i have is nitro.
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Old 21-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazerboy View Post
Si senor, exactly correct. Was your motor or esc hot? if it was, you got saved a couple hundred dollars from novak. Being sensored it knows when the rotor is locked, over heating, spinning too fast, etc. use a 10 tooth or lower.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazerboy View Post
yes, a 10 tooth pinion and 65 spur. good for a 3.5.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazerboy View Post
electricity doesn't like water. so on your xx4 what's your spur? And as for my car it should be pretty obvious.(the one i'm getting anyway) Right now all i have is nitro.

so you know what to run on his car even though you dont know his car or internal drive ratio are and to top it all you dont even have an electric car LOL
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  #12  
Old 21-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bert digler View Post
was it damp weather ie damp sensor wire classic fault on brushless
Firstly - Thank you Zipper for helping everyone with a much clearer explanation.

Secondly - Thanks Bert, your comments just saved the Noob spending more money!

Going to put it all back together today and test it. I have a sneaky suspicion that the Diggler is right.

Thanks again - I'll let you know the outcome.
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  #13  
Old 21-08-2007
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mark christopher, where did you come from? and for most cars with a 3.5, anywhere from a 12 to an 8 tooth is good.
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  #14  
Old 21-08-2007
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The trouble with small pinions is getting them to mesh. Anything smaller than about a 14 tooth has so few teeth relative to its diameter that the tooth profile goes all to cock.

At best it will result in a noisy mesh, at worst a stripped spur.

G
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  #15  
Old 21-08-2007
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if you can make an electric soud like a nitro SWEET! but it's not so sweet if it destroys your spur.

dont post a link of that thing at unbelievable rc.
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  #16  
Old 21-08-2007
Chris Doughty Chris Doughty is offline
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I really didn't think it was possible for a 48dp pinion to be smaller than a 14?

are we talking 32dp?
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  #17  
Old 21-08-2007
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You start to notice at a 16 I think (a little), more noticable on a 15 and very noticable on a 14.

I'd be amazed to see anything like an 8???
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Old 21-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazerboy View Post
mark christopher, where did you come from? and for most cars with a 3.5, anywhere from a 12 to an 8 tooth is good.
if you mean what racing back ground i came from electric off road from late 80's last 5 years have been both nitro and electric,

if you mean which planet did i come from , that would be planet Zogg
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  #19  
Old 21-08-2007
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no, i mean what universe!
i looked at the xx and it's a big spur, so a 16 will probably work. The cars i had used 56 tooth spurs, so small pinions were a must.
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Old 21-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazerboy View Post
no, i mean what universe!
i looked at the xx and it's a big spur, so a 16 will probably work. The cars i had used 56 tooth spurs, so small pinions were a must.
But what about the overall ratio of the transmission?

G
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