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#1
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I raced a Novak 4.5 brushless this weekend for the first time since i bought it. It didn't seem to run to well, then it cut out. After checking all the connections that are perfect I took it apart. I also took apart my 6.5 motor to see if I could spot any differences and why it was making a funny tapping sound.
My 6.5 has black spacers around the shaft. My 3.5 doesn't. Is this correct? Has anyone experience this problem before? The rating is 4.5 and the shaft was changed to a 3.5. Any comments including "you're a noob but...." would be much appreciated! Many thanks |
#2
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poss yuor 3.5 is a sintered rotor and your over geared hence the shut down.
changing a 6.5 to a 3.5 rotor will not alter the performance unless it being changed from a no sintered to a sintered, the windings are in the can
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#3
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Si senor, exactly correct. Was your motor or esc hot? if it was, you got saved a couple hundred dollars from novak. Being sensored it knows when the rotor is locked, over heating, spinning too fast, etc. use a 10 tooth or lower.
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#4
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10 tooth?! the guy hasnt even posted what car he runs..
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#5
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yes, a 10 tooth pinion and 65 spur. good for a 3.5.
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#6
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I was there with Mr Ben H on Sunday and can confirm:
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#7
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He was running an XXT.
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- Associated B6.1 - - Yokomo YZ CAL3.1 - - JConcepts BJ4WE - - Frankenstein DEX410 - - Schumacher Cougar Classic - - Xray T4 2013- - Tamiya Monster Beetle Black Edition - oOple Trader Feedback |
#8
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was it damp weather ie damp sensor wire classic fault on brushless
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who knows who cares ![]() |
#9
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It sure was damp! That must be it then. I'll get him to test it now it's dry...
__________________
- Associated B6.1 - - Yokomo YZ CAL3.1 - - JConcepts BJ4WE - - Frankenstein DEX410 - - Schumacher Cougar Classic - - Xray T4 2013- - Tamiya Monster Beetle Black Edition - oOple Trader Feedback |
#10
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electricity doesn't like water. so on your xx4 what's your spur? And as for my car it should be pretty obvious.(the one i'm getting anyway) Right now all i have is nitro.
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#11
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Quote:
so you know what to run on his car even though you dont know his car or internal drive ratio are and to top it all you dont even have an electric car LOL ![]()
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#12
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Secondly - Thanks Bert, your comments just saved the Noob spending more money! Going to put it all back together today and test it. I have a sneaky suspicion that the Diggler is right. Thanks again - I'll let you know the outcome. |
#13
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mark christopher, where did you come from? and for most cars with a 3.5, anywhere from a 12 to an 8 tooth is good.
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#14
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The trouble with small pinions is getting them to mesh. Anything smaller than about a 14 tooth has so few teeth relative to its diameter that the tooth profile goes all to cock.
At best it will result in a noisy mesh, at worst a stripped spur. G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
#15
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if you can make an electric soud like a nitro SWEET! but it's not so sweet if it destroys your spur.
dont post a link of that thing at unbelievable rc. |
#16
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I really didn't think it was possible for a 48dp pinion to be smaller than a 14?
are we talking 32dp? ![]() |
#17
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You start to notice at a 16 I think (a little), more noticable on a 15 and very noticable on a 14.
I'd be amazed to see anything like an 8???
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#18
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if you mean which planet did i come from , that would be planet Zogg ![]()
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#19
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no, i mean what universe!
![]() i looked at the xx and it's a big spur, so a 16 will probably work. The cars i had used 56 tooth spurs, so small pinions were a must. |
#20
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![]() Quote:
![]() G
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Graham North http://www.atomic-carbon.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/atomiccarbon https://www.facebook.com/nortechracing |
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