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Guys,
inspired by the feedback I received on my battery strap thread, I have looked at modifying a X6squared chassis to accomondate saddle pack lipos in stead of the stick pack. The reason why I am looking at this, is mainly that I can not get used to the looks of the body, and the zen body I painted a few weeks ago, doesnt quite do it for me either ![]() So I though that I could have a look at the possibility of making a carbon-fibre chassis for my car, but after giving it a hard thought, and also from looking at the fabolous work of a Swedish racer (http://rc10b4.blogspot.com), I soon realised that I dont have the tools or skills to make all the parts for mounting the gearbox etc. Instead I looked at the possibility of modifying a stock X6sq chassis, and here is what I came up with so far... I started with sketching up the X6 chassis: ![]() Next thing was to sketch up the placement of the batteries, and the outline of a standard B4 body. The front section of the X6 chassis is qiute similar to the B4, and the width is some 2mm narrower than the X6, so I think the B4 body could be a good start. ![]() My intention is to dremel down the X6 chassis, and have carbon fiber reinforcements made that goes along the outher edge of the chassis. That way I hope that the rigidity removed by cutting the edge of the chassis will be restored. Here is an idea of how the c-f plates could look, and I would probably stack 3 or 4 on top of each other and bond them together. ![]() I see I migh run out of real estate for mounting all the electronics, but I will pull out my dremel and test the concept on a scrap chassis. Let me know what you think ![]() |
#2
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oh, one more thing, it's not only the body that is the reason for this, the weight distribution will be shifted a little bit forward, so I might be able to end up with about 65/35 weight distribution without adding wigths to the front.
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#3
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Careful not to introduce weak spots near the extreme ends of the C/F stacked plates.
Bear in mind that molded composite and C/F plates don't quite flex in the same way. On every jump landing they'll be trying to break apart.
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you can use 2 saddle packs in the standard x6^2 chassis end to end where the stick pack fits in.
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I know, but that will not make the chassis narrower, so the B4 shell fits.
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ryan did you not read the thread mate
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oh yeah sorry
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#8
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maybe draw in where the servo would go so you know how much room you actually have to mount your electronics, then you'll get an idea how much room you'll have. The other thing is why not have 1 big box for the saddle packs instead of them being seperated? If you have a spare chassis, you could cut it all up and mount everything including the body so you have the look your going for then see how and where you could brace it all, and make sure its all solid, I just snapped my mid motor losi in half due to chassis brace falier, which made it mega floppy and snapped in half going over a tiny bump. other wise keep up the good work and post your progress
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#9
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wow, seems I got side-tracked here... Well most of my spare time the last year went into designing and building a new astro-track, so I hope I am excused...
Back to the project: I have dug out these old drawings, and also ordered a set of saddle packs, so I can get some momentum here. Meanwhile, x-factory came out with a saddle pack chassis, so I guess my idea will not be that novel any more, but nevertheless, I will be looking at finishing this project before spring comes, and judging by the temperature and amount of snow, I think I will manage that.... |
#10
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Leave the chassis as is, and put a Top Force repro shell on there mate! Would look dog's bollocks!
![]() http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT ![]()
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
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the body looks nice xDD
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The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it´s limit´s. TLR 22 "1.0" |
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why not run this body!!!!!!!!!!! AJ GALAXY is buy far the best looking and best handiling body ive found!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
![]() ![]() as for the saddle pack if u run on astro or on grass then go for it ....we run on American style tracks here in Australia and after back to back testing with the saddle and orig chassie ive gone back to the org as i find it works alot better on dirt tracks if you are trying to find more steering then do the BK front hub mod or try raising the hub carrier!!!!!!!!! ![]() |
#13
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
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__________________
ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#15
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Darren, is the DMS site down right now? (http://www.xfactoryrc.co.uk is OK)
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#16
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__________________
ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#17
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OK, I'll just order when it's up again.
Best of luck resolving those issues! Hang in there! ![]() I want to try a saddle pack chassis myself. After reading Ellis' comments on the change, it sounds very promising. I found the car great on dirt / low traction. But on astro it just seemed to roll too much, the chassis is moving around all the time ![]() OK, I also ran the car way too soft I think. And it probably had way too much droop as well... It needs to be squared up! ![]() I have the first X-6 chassis. So the X-6^2 LiPo saddle chassis is an X-6^2 chassis that has been post machined? => I can alternatively buy an X-6^2 and whip out the Dremel? Is the X-6^2 chassis only in plastic now? (not graphite)
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Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
#18
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Hi Svein,
The X6 Sq saddle chassis is as you correctly say a "standard plastic chassis" that is then machined to accomadate the saddle packs. The standard chassis is still available in Plastic and Graphite versions but only the Plastic chassis is available as a saddle version. Hope that helps. Darren
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ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#19
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A bit surprised you didn't have a AC GTO in your collection?
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#20
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Thx Darren! Which material would you recommend for astro? (I don't mind dremeling
![]() LOL! I ran out of space... got hooked on vintage as well, ebay is very, VERY dangerous!!! ![]() Also I found myself going to a race by plane... with 5 different cars in my luggage... ridicilous! ![]()
__________________
Life's too short to go slow! www.ymr.no Tech Tips, HopUps & Bling Xray 2014 XB4 4WD & 2WD | B4 FTW Night Fox XL | Mugen MRX-5 | RB | Futaba 3VCS FASST | Faskolor Visit my showroom |
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