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  #1  
Old 22-05-2010
enfieldbanana enfieldbanana is offline
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Default Building Tips For Cougar SV Pro

Evening ladies and gentlemen,

I have just picked up my Schumacher Cougar SV Pro kit and was wondering if you have any hints and tips that you could throw my way when building it?

Many thanks.

Andy
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  #2  
Old 22-05-2010
Tom3012 Tom3012 is offline
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Take your time and read the manual carefully, before you build the shocks, wash them out to remove any of the left over anodizing stuff
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  #3  
Old 22-05-2010
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when building the gearbox, when you get to the section were you fit the 3 screws through the top part of the gearbox, don't over tighten them in fact leave them loose,and skip the layshaft build and go straight ahead to mount gearbox top to chassis, tighten the 4 downward facing screws first then the 3 u left loose earlier this ensure the gearbox is fitted true and square,and then build layshaft,
make sure the pins inside the gear box that go through the plastic idler are in flush both sides before fitting o rings,and when building the shocks don't over tighten the shock tops or it causes to much pre load and ruins the bladders,and dont over tighten the lower shock mount at the front (the one that goes through the front wishbone)or it stiffens up the front end oddly,and make sure you clean out the shocks really really well.
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Old 22-05-2010
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Change all the suspension and steering tie rods to titanium, and don't crush the cir-clip when installing it into the diff.
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Old 22-05-2010
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as already mentioned in another thread you only really need to change the front top link ones,
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Old 23-05-2010
kwiksi kwiksi is offline
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I had one of the bushings work its way loose even with loctite. This is sort of insurance. Just get a longer screw and m3 nut.

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Old 23-05-2010
enfieldbanana enfieldbanana is offline
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Default Cheers!!

Thanks for the advance people, appreciate it.

Andy
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Old 23-05-2010
slow bob slow bob is offline
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when building the layshaft glue the drive pins in as the o rings are going to break within 6 or 7 batterys then the pins will fly out and destroy everything in your gearbox
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Old 29-05-2010
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hi,

got an SV today and got through the first bag of bits, enjoyable build so far but have one question.

the rear wishbones have a little binding, i dont think they are the wishbones but the split spheres anyone know a way around this?

thanks for any help
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Old 30-05-2010
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Make sure the spheres are fully home. They are tight in the holders when you first press them in. That should be fine.
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Old 30-05-2010
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yeah just had a look and they are in the holders properly, its not that much to be honest its not enough to stop the travel of the shocks.

thanks
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2010
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Another tip thats been floating around the forums. Long rod ends on the rear shocks for more droop.

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  #13  
Old 02-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Another tip thats been floating around the forums. Long rod ends on the rear shocks for more droop.

You need to dremel away a bit of material from the chassis for this to work properly. Just a small amount in the corner to allow the front edge of the wishbone to drop.
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Old 07-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
I had one of the bushings work its way loose even with loctite. This is sort of insurance. Just get a longer screw and m3 nut.

Had this problem too, what scew lengths have you used?
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Old 09-06-2010
kwiksi kwiksi is offline
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Try a 3X16mm button head.
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  #16  
Old 19-06-2010
Mr. Red Mr. Red is offline
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This is an idea I going to try. Just built the car and not raced it yet and I wanted to put some weight in there right away. One of these are bolted on each side of the lipo. A total of 96grams. Are having a new topdeck designed so I can mount the speedo on it. The topdeck opens from the front instead of the back to remove the lipo.
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  #17  
Old 19-06-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Red View Post
This is an idea I going to try. Just built the car and not raced it yet and I wanted to put some weight in there right away. One of these are bolted on each side of the lipo. A total of 96grams. Are having a new topdeck designed so I can mount the speedo on it. The topdeck opens from the front instead of the back to remove the lipo.
96 grammes sounds a lot
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  #18  
Old 19-06-2010
Mr. Red Mr. Red is offline
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May be so but we run very much on dirt and then it could be useful. I made more holes so the brass could be moved back and forth. If it appears to be too much weight, I just take away some with my very fine saw
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