De soldering...HELP!

[ralphee]

Hey guys

OK need some advice from you brushless guys, as this was my first time today.
First off, here's what im running.

TRF501x
EZ run 5.5t brushless motor and speedo.
Kit spur, 17t pinion
Intellect 5200mah LIPO's
Speedo set to a punch factor of 6, with the highest being nine.

Today was my first time out, and after about 4 mins, the Neg wire to the LIPO's came desoldered......right off the Corally connector.

Normally id think i was overgeared, but it doesnt seem so, and the speedo and motor seemed not to warm at all, though it was hot today, i did make the mistake of not opening up the hot weather vents on the shell (though i have done now)...could that be a cause? Or maybe i just had a bad solder join to the Corally maybe?

Any advice really welcome, as im a bit stumped, going to re solder now, but dont really want to go out again, till i can get a rough idea of what i may have done wrong.

Thanks in advance.......lee

[/tobys]

poor soldering sounds like a reasonable cause...

[tyreman]

Make sure you use silver solder as it has a higher melting point.

[ralphee]

Cheers guys, will give silver a try, pretty sure what i have (Draper) is lead, so maybe that will see me right!

bests....lee

[tyreman]

I use a 60 tin/40 lead 5 core solder from RS the stock code is 619-5615, it's about £14 for a 250g roll.

[rocketrob]

seems to me you're jumping the gun here, for unless you're resoldered it and are still having an issue guess-timating what it could be would be a moot point.

[KRob]

Check the Corally is a tight fit into the battery.
I had a connector unsolder itself when it was only a loose fit. Changed connector - problem sorted so might be worth a look...

[super__dan]

Originally Posted by KRob

Check the Corally is a tight fit into the battery.
I had a connector unsolder itself when it was only a loose fit. Changed connector - problem sorted so might be worth a look...

I agree, whether it's the root cause or not, bin that connector as once this kind of thing happens they are never the same.

[teamxray]

bad soldering is the problem and you dont need silver solder at all i never had a battery connector come off at all in the 35+ odd years of doing cars or boats

[ralphee]

Originally Posted by rocketrob

seems to me you're jumping the gun here, for unless you're resoldered it and are still having an issue guess-timating what it could be would be a moot point.

Speak English man, your grammar is bloody awful, and i asked nicely for help, not wise ass remarks, go eat a TV dinner or something.

As for the other guys, thank you very much, ill take all of that in, and take her for another run tomorrow, thanks for your time guys!

bests.....lee

[Matt Airbrushing]

If you have re soldered it then I recommend driving for a short time (30 seconds) and then have a good feel of all the electronics and make sure nothing is overheating.

If you did melt the solder then you either had a bad connection or the battery was getting very hot, either way its not a good idea to let the car get this hot again. If you are pulling enough amps to melt solder then your pulling enough amps to kill your cells and ESC.

The chances are that you just had a bad solder joint and once re soldered you wont have the same problem again.

You should never need to use silver solder on RC car connectors, if anything is getting hot enough to melt standard solder then something is wrong.

You may need solver solder if you are rewiring a motor armature, but thats a bit more specialised.

[ralphee]

Matt, ill try that buddy thankyou, its odd, as the cells were just warm, not hot at all,in fact all electrics seemed fine, not even the motor was hot, going out today with it anyhoo, see how it goes, just for the sake of it, ive fitted new connectors, not with silver solder though, as TBH, ive never used it anyway, never had to.

lee

[super__dan]

To be fair, lots of manufacturers advertise solder and 'silver' but it's just a good quality solder, not the stuff you can buy from the pound shop which is crap.