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#1
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I've just ordered an RB5 so i thought i would start a thread to pick peoples brains for anything they have altered on their cars to improve them.
After speaking to a friend i've got a couple already; 1 - replace the diff balls with ceramics (a given as i own a ZX5!) 2 - replace certain ball studs such as the rear inboard camber link with balls that have a hex driver head, so they can be changed with a ball head allen driver to save taking the rear end off each time you want to alter the location! 3 - lead in the front to help with on power under steer (cheers Stu!) any other tips?
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#2
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Jim, my tip is to buy your B4 back.
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Atomic Carbon S2, Atomised B44, Tek18, Blaze, Mid motor Mini T |
#3
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everyones a comedian!! Although it did go well at the weekend, well happy with B2.
Waynes tip was read the manual - ta for that! ![]()
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#4
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#5
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no i don't sorry. I was going to use balls and cups from a different car as i'm not sure if Kyosho do these. The HPI cyclone ones have a hex driver head, i just need to check the threads are long enough.
Anyone know of an online RB5 manual anywhere? cheers
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#6
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When building the slipper, make sure you squash the spring tightly as i built mine without squashing the spring in the hope that the tension on the nut would suffice.
This weekend i went to back the slipper off as the car is loveing to wheelie and the nut is that far back that the nyloc nut is almost off the threads lol. i only noticed as the little pop off cover wouldnt even sit on the spur gear cover as the nut was in its way lol. ![]() Col. ![]() |
#7
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Also, try the kyosho balls first, unlike the zx5 ones, mine is 3 meetings old and still abso perfect, The zx5 std balls would have lasted about 5 mins lol. Its prob the fact that its not under as much strain and for some reason, the diff gets away with being able to run quite loose.... Unsure as to why but its fine.
I'll prob upgrade come rebuild time, but as of yet that seems quite a distance away. Col. ![]() |
#8
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I think the ceramic diff balls will be my next purchase. the diff (for some reason) seems to atract so much dirt into it, it rediculous.
I stripped it down before the bury meeting because it was making a horrid gritty noise and the balls were really dirty. then after running at bury it feels the same again. so its time for another strip down and to purchase some new balls! ![]() Also it may be worth to get some titanium turnbuckles. as i managed to snap one of the std ones on its first test, due to a awkward landing. I just used some of the lundsford B4 ones. |
#9
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good point on the slipper Colin. i noticed that on my freinds at the weekend. very slippy dusty track and backed it off so far that the nylock wasn't engaged any more!
The B4 blue turnbuckles are a direct fit and match the kyosho blue!
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#10
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#12
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4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#13
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Losi xxx-cr ballstuds have the hex on the top
.215” Standard Neck HD (A6025) 3/8” Standard Neck HD (A6027)1/4” Standard Neck HD (A6026) .345 Short Neck HD (A6029) you can also get the nice Ti ones for approx £9 for 2 ![]() ![]() Stu |
#14
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Ti turnbuckles - stock ones bend easy. I used Lunsford B4 ones.
Stock Diff balls are better quality than the ZX5 ones. but if you are building it up and have ceramics handy.... Be careful with the ball studs and end caps as the RB5 uses a bigger sized ball stud Proline rear axle conversion if you are coming off a Losi or B4 and have a ton of wheels aready. Pick up some extra Blue spacers and you can use them to replace some of the plastic ones in the kit. |
#15
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A tip while building and make maintenance easier.
File/dremel the heads on the hingepin-retaining screws, so you only need to turn the screws a half turn and pass the pin through the cutout. Explaining pic below ![]() Untitled-1.jpg
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Team Red Bull Racing / JMI Motorsport CAT SX & Cougar SV Advanced Electronics - Savöx - NorthTQ - Autopartner |
#16
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Thats just bein lazy!
![]() But surely if you get to much vibration and the screw turns the pin may be able to escape? ![]() Fot the sake of turning the screw a few more times, I'll leave mine as they are. |
#17
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I'd also be quite worried if my car fell apart with just a 1/2 turn of a screw
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#18
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Since it's screwed in plastic, there's almost no way they'll turn just by vibration.. I've done this on all my Yok SD's and lately the TF5 Stallions, Lazer and RB5.
Some of the retaining screws is a pain to screw with a longer driver, so filing the screws makes the wrenching a lot easier..
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Team Red Bull Racing / JMI Motorsport CAT SX & Cougar SV Advanced Electronics - Savöx - NorthTQ - Autopartner |
#19
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A good idea for the build: use Associated ball-diff grease instead of the stock one. Greets, Chris |
#20
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how do tungsten carbide ball diffs compared to ceramic ones?
the latter costs double .. |
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