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#1
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Anyone else suffer massively from grip-rolling?
I had real problems with it at RHR at the weekend and couldn't seem to get rid! First time out with the car, but keen to get it sorted out asap. ![]() Rough car set up was: Yellow spikes F&R (2 rows removed on front during the day) Front: 40wt oil Number 2 Piston Blue Spring (changed from silver during the day) Inside on shock tower, outside on wishbone Rear: 30wt oil Number 1 piston Silver spring Inside on shock tower, inside on wishbone -1 all round. Tried a black anti roll bar, but didnt seem to help.. Any help welcome... really want to iron it out... |
#2
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what camber locations? What wheelbase?
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#3
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I ran black springs so really soft all round at kiddy (last round of the MAM) when grip was probably medium and didn't have a problem with grip roll and I was running silver ARB front and back.
Regional this Sunday I ran a rear ARB and only suffered in the final when I foolishly went for new tyres, although only grip rolled maybe 5 times max... no spike cutting ever. My dad was suffering a bit at the start of the straight since it was a fast chicane into a 180 sort of then onto the straight. I think this was mostly down to him going left hard then into right hard so the car was fully loaded on the suspension before transfering all it's weight to the other side causing a roll. I found going wide into the corner at high speed and then almost not steering left at all then hard right worked good for me |
#4
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Options...
__________________
:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint :: |
#5
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Do you run lipos and if yes, did you add weight under the lipos?
I added 60g of lead under each lipo (120g in total) and grip roll almost completely disappeared (driving on Astroturf in Kampenhout --> MEGA grip!). |
#6
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F link - inside on Carbon top plate with 1 washer, outside on carrier
R Link- inside on shock tower, inside on wishbone Medium Wheel Base. Ran a stainless tray & straps for weights... ![]() |
#7
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Lower the ride height.
Less grippy tires Cut pins off the outside edges, first, of the tires Thicker oil in the rear than you're running Run thicker oil all around than you are running Stiffer foam in the tires, especially the rear Move any added weight further rearward, or to the center, and away from the sides of the chassis. Increase length of camber links |
#8
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I've always been told thicker oil in the front than the back... most setups also run this unless it's the same front/back
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#9
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4wd, yes - but the softer oil in the rear makes the car roll on its axis easier under corner load, and while allowing it to turn-in easier it also leads to traction roll (that happens when are car reaches its max travel). ![]() EDIT = sorry to add to the confusion, but I answered this thread thinking it was about a B4 and not a B44. removed unneccesary info Last edited by rocketrob; 13-04-2010 at 04:41 PM. Reason: my mistake - 2wd vs. 4wd |
#10
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every car I've ever owned has had thicker oil in the front than rear.
edit after above post: the car in question is a b44
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#11
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Cheers for the help gents, 4wd is still a bit of a mystery to me..
Will give these tweaks a go and see how I get on.. ![]() |
#12
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With this sort of thing, you cannot change one thing and make it magically 'solve' the issue. Quite often you need to alter a couple of things to make it work.
HTH Mark
__________________
:: AE B5MCE - SP 7.5 v3.0 Brushless Motor - Reedy Shorty Lipo - Savox Servo - Spektrum Rx :: :: Paint By Turnip Paint :: |
#13
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Just to follow up, found a fix for my grip roll problems....
![]() Added 60g of lead to the center of the chassis. (in between lipos) Increased camber to -1.5 Thick silver rear anti roll bar.. Car is loads better, thanks for the help gents.. ![]() |
#14
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thats a little bit nieve only doing what your told.
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#15
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it works so I had no reason to doubt it...
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