Battery straps X6 squared

[grelland]

Hi there,


I have an X6 squared, and I am not too happy with the battery mounting setup.

The front thumbscrews are mounted way too far outwards, and foul the body, and with my Corally Lipos that are a bit taller than my other packs, the body sits way too high on the chassis.

Is there a kit ore something that will replace the battery brace with something along the lines of the positivo-negativo brace I used on my non-squared car, where the two forward posts were mounted either side of the ESC compartment.

I also see some cars with two separate bars, seemingy from a different car, does anybody know what car they are from?

Cheers,
Roy

[Chris Griffiths]

Ive seen a review, may of been on here actually, were they have replaved thumb screws/nuts with a counter sunk washer and a counter sunk screw. looks really good aswell.

Ill be doing this soon myself


Chris

[grelland]

I see, but then you need to screw the countersung screw into the chassis everythime you replace your lipo, and that eventually strip out the threads....

[Chris Griffiths]

Originally Posted by grelland

I see, but then you need to screw the countersung screw into the chassis everythime you replace your lipo, and that eventually strip out the threads....

Yes that would be a pain in the bottom! Ill try find that review.


Chris

[Chris Griffiths]

Couldnt find review but found this pic

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...zx6brace-1.jpg

You can see what i mean here

[grelland]

Yes I see, just as I thought, but I still have some concerns about stripping out the threads...

[Darren Boyle]

The Quick Release optional battery mounting kit (Part number XF1225) with 4 long threaded rods and 4 low profile nuts works really well in cases like this, just use a nut driver on the front two nuts and replace the rear two if you prefer with thumb screws as most drivers do...

[grelland]

I already have a kit like that, but what happens is that the nyloc on the nut is stronger than the hold of the threads in the chassis, so I ended up threading the rod in and out anyways... Also, to account for the taller lipos, the rods need to be long, so that again it fouls the body...

What about keeping the rearmost mounts, and add a couple of standoffs each side of the ESC bay, then make e new carbon plate... I can do that on my own, but I cant be the only one with this problem?

[Chris Griffiths]

Same here ive got that kit and its too tight so as you say takes out the grub screw also still hits body.

I may try a bit of heat proof tape on body t see if that stops the rubbing on paint but i doubt it, will prob just go staright through tape


Chris

[Darren Boyle]

Couple of solutions guys......

I know it does not help you with a body already painted and pre-cut, but when cutting a NEW shell do NOT cut to the cut line but cut 5-6mm lower to allow for more room for "larger" LIPO's underneath. When the body was designed it was for NIMH's or "standard size" smaller LIPO's, as they get bigger and bigger, then the cut line for the body just needs to be lower and lower.

As for the rods coming out when you undo the nuts, simply install the rods with plenty of "good" threadlock and assemble to the correct height when they are put into the chassis etc (I always advise to put a LIPO pack in place, assemble and have the top of the threaded rod just flush with the top of the nut), then leave in place overnight for the threadlock to "set" properly and remove the nuts the following day (which should then come off with ease and leave the rod firmly in its place and set to the right height for your type of packs) has worked every time for anyone I know who has tried it.

The reason the front two mounts are so wide was to make the two chassis sections either side of the "front two" cell slots as big as possible to install radio equipment in the two outer chassis sections, also since when the car was concieved it was the X60 truck that came first (and the buggy and truck both utlize the same chassis moulding tool) and the height of the nut on the front two mounts was not an issue or consideration on the truck. When the buggy followed, NIMH batteries were still being used by the masses (so radio gear was installed in the outer chassis areas) and the only LIPO's on offer were much shallower then too (hence the height of the strap was no trouble), so the design was fine, however the two tips above (lower body cut line and the QC battery kit) are simple, quick and easy solutions to these minor issues.

[Chris Griffiths]

Cheers for tips!



Chris

[MikePimlott]

Not a squared but same idea. Ive seen it a little neater than this also. Think its AE B44 battery posts, straps and thumb screws.

[TonyM]

I also bought the quick change kit and decided to keep the threads, discard the nuts and use standard FT thumb nuts. However, for the front two nuts I have reduced their height (screw the nut onto a screw, stick it in the Dremel and hold against a sheet of sandpaper) by approximately a half and bevelled the edges, still very easy to screw on but lower profile.

I also cut slots in the two rear holes of the battery brace, so I never have to fully unscrew those nuts, just pull the brace out. I know there were warnings about this allowing the chassis to flex more, but I don't believe that for European driving this is an issue - let's face it you have a very stiff lipo battery doing that job for you.

Oh, and as already mentioned, I cut the body along the lower of the two cut-lines.

[grelland]

Thanks for all the good answers, I agree this is a minor issue, but sometimes its fun to work on those also

I will have a look at what I do, then post some pics of the outcome

[super__dan]

I use screws all round, can't remember the last time I removed the lipo from my car as I just top it up between races.

[matdodd]

I'm the same I just leave my lipos in and use 2 button head screws in the front and thumb screws at the rear

[YoungChazz]

That truly was the idea from the beginning. Don't take the battery out!

And a good 4200 will give you all the run time you need. Buying more wastes money.

[TonyM]

You've got to keep in mind that some race meets stipulate that you charge in a lipo bag. Also, I've been to meetings where there are only four heats = 21 minutes max to your next race, and finally places where there is no electricity and a long haul from the car with a charging battery, so easier to have multiple sets of lipo's pre-charged.

Originally Posted by YoungChazz

That truly was the idea from the beginning. Don't take the battery out!

And a good 4200 will give you all the run time you need. Buying more wastes money.

[Chris Griffiths]

I thought if you just charged one lipo over and over it wouldnt be as good as rotating them? I know there not like NIMH but i still thought they would take a bit of a hammering.

Also i think id always take out of my car just incase somthing did go wrong

Chris

[burgie]

Lipos do not show any drop off in performance if you just charge them and race them. It is recommended that you let them cool down between charges, but I have never known any of my lipos to come off anything other than slightly warm.

As long as they are always balance charged, they will be fine. I have a couple of sets of 3200mah team orion lipos that are in their 4th year of racing now.