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#1
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Hey guys, i was looking at the diff positioning arrangement in the db01, in the manual, it has u putting in the diff seating it low in the chassis, im just wondering if its possible or anyone has tried spinning that hex 90 deg or 180, seat the diff in a different spot if more tension is needed in the belt or something
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#2
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Isn't that basicly explained in the manual. If you want more tension move the inner part more outwards instead of downwards?
You know the part where you align the dot and the triangle.
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««201, 511&503 |
#3
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yeah im talking about the actual hex /octagon thing that the inner offset circle sits in, i want to know if u can put them in upside down and make the diff sit higher, or sideways to bring the diff further forward or backward
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#4
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I don't think they'll fit that way as the bottom of the diff 'housing' and the chassis are moulded to fit together with a slight hex, the top part is a curve. It's done that way to make sure the adjustment can't slip.
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#5
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Most likely you can flip them over to run the diff in the high position. This is actually a tuning option on touring cars...
I don't think you will be able to get away with running them in the forward or rearward postiion though. Maybe if your belt has one extra or one less tooth... |
#6
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cool, i had a look at the manual, as far as i can tell, the octagon thing is equal lengths on each side, so my theory is now i could mount it in 8 different positions and use the internal offset circle to get the tension correct, my reason for the original question is im running 36 tooth pulleys and wasnt totally happy with the amount of tension i was getting even with the offset inner circle set to full tension, so i'd wondered if i could use the hex thing as well, im thinking i'll turn it 45 degrees, so the diff will sit low still, but further away from the cntre shaft to give me the tension i need, thanks for the help boys
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#7
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The small pulley is the weak link because it takes much less slack for the belt to climb out of the teeth than the larger pulleys. From kit setting, I actually loosened my belts one notch... |
#8
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i dont have the tensioners on my car, though i know theyre just a roller to prevent the belt lifting off the centre pulleys, the reason i need more tension is im running a 36 tooth pulley in both ends of the car, and when i move the offset circle that holds the bearings, into the position that will give the most tension, i dont feel the tension is quite enough, its close, but still a little looser than i would like. I agree with your setting though, when i had the 37 tooth pulleys, i thought two notches was too tight, so i dropped it back to one, but with one tooth less on the diff pulley, thats 3mm of slack i need to take out of the belt. and i know people will wonder why im running 36 tooth pulleys, two reasons, it means i can run keyed diff rings (its a preference thing, i dont trust non keyed diff rings, and it means i can run wide tooth pulleys, which lowers the drag a bit, increases efficiency and in theory, better top speed (which is important in spec class racing)
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#9
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Ah, I see. You will definitely want to try moving the diffs to the outward position then. That should gain you a little more tension.
You can also look to other brands for belts with 1 less tooth... |
#10
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yeah good point 94, my other option i've thought of is the original 501x belt which is 363mm, so 2 teeth shorter and i could run 17 tooth centre pulleys to make it all work, 3 racing makes a pack of 16/17/18 tooth pulleys for the cars. my aim though is to be able to keep the db01r belts as they are the pick of the bunch as far as wear and efficiency go, anyway i can only try it all and see what happens, but at least im able to turn that hex piece and get more adjustability that way
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#11
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just to finalise this discussion, i fitted the diffs turning the hex one notch, so all the triangles were tilted towards the centre pulley and it gave me the tension that i needed, and the diff spins smoothly in its housing no problems, this has solved my problem
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