Wheels.

[ryanlownie]

Hi guys,

Had my first run with the Durango today and had a few problems. First off, the rear roll pin snapped clean at the points where it enters/exits through the axle. Secondly, on the front wheels the roll pin is moving outward and forcing itself into the wheel, then after the final I noticed that the wheel wasn't even sitting on the hex anymore, it had shifted around a little so the pointy part of the hex was actually sticking into the flat of the hex on the wheel.

Judging by the two above problems I've put it down to either too much torque, it has simply snapped the roll pin and is forcing the fronts out plus shifting the wheel.

Or are the wheels so bad that the pin easily mashes into it?

Any ideas people or solutions?

Regarding the torque issue, my car was running standard setup regarding drivetrain and running an X12 OctaWind 6.5T, 40C batteries, standard SXX settings.

Thanks.

[werner1619]

I think you will find a few posts about the pins not lasting.

It is a poor design.

You wil also note that should you hit the front wheel on the side, that the bearings move inward. Another poor design on the C hub inner bearing support, it is way to thin.

..... ;-(

[ryanlownie]

Yeah I'm going to have a try with Nortech's and AE Factory Team pins.

And another new Durango driver had that bearing problem this weekend, they simply pulled straight through.

[mark christopher]

is your slipper too tight?

[T4miy4 Guy]

Originally Posted by werner1619

I think you will find a few posts about the pins not lasting.

It is a poor design.

You wil also note that should you hit the front wheel on the side, that the bearings move inward. Another poor design on the C hub inner bearing support, it is way to thin.

..... ;-(

Think this is what happened to Shanks yesterday

Andy

[ryanlownie]

Originally Posted by mark christopher

is your slipper too tight?

Slipper is set as per manual. I haven't adjusted it either as the problems occured at the end of the day, I didn't realise at first that it could be too much torque.

[HyperFX]

Originally Posted by Ry @ JE Spares

Slipper is set as per manual. I haven't adjusted it either as the problems occured at the end of the day, I didn't realise at first that it could be too much torque.

Regardless of the manual settings (although, a great starting point), make adjustments to be sure the slipper is working properly. I usually need to run mine 1/2 turn looser than what the manual says, for it to work properly. If the slipper is too tight, you'll be subjecting the drive pins to extra torque, and eventually snap the pins.

[JohnM]

Originally Posted by HyperFX

Regardless of the manual settings (although, a great starting point), make adjustments to be sure the slipper is working properly. I usually need to run mine 1/2 turn looser than what the manual says, for it to work properly. If the slipper is too tight, you'll be subjecting the drive pins to extra torque, and eventually snap the pins.

I'm pretty sure mine is half a turn looser then the book setting, just felt better over the bumps at my local track, but doesn't ever feel, or sound like it's slipping.

[telboy]

Since bulding mine last year, I have my slipper 1 full turn out now. It was tight as per the factory settings.
It just felt so much better once loosened.

Its all personal preference really, and that feels good to me.

We have had problems with the wheels, but only on a track that is desiged in such a way that, the car is turning and braking when landing from a jump on carpet. This happened a lot to start with, but now people are using their own methods to stop it happening.
I use serrated front nuts now, and once tightened well, it stops the wheels turning on the hex.
Others use B44/JC wheels as it has a deeper hex.