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#1
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Hi all,
What's are the most common breakable parts on a b44? Also, it's a brand new FT B44, do I need to add any weight anywhere, if I am using LiPo's? Many Thanks, Charlie Ware |
#2
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Only thing i broke was front shock shaft, and i only did 2 of them. (my fault too)
Weight is deffinatley needed use the rude bits brass lipo tray and brass battery straps. http://www.rudebits.co.uk/ |
#3
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I have broken the lower front bulkhead #ASC9713, 4 times and a front arm once...thats about it! Rudebita lipotray all the way for me!
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ME & MY OWN WALLET RACING! |
#4
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The front shock shafts (expensive!) are vulnerable as well. Personally, I believe that you can greatly reduce the chance of breaking one in an impact by orienting the spring perch such that the "slot" faces forward. Thus if you crash, the perch can just pop off, rather than use its full leverage as a fulcrum to snap your £6.00 golden toothpick. If you've got "early" top decks, you can quite easily break off the camber link balljoint - esp at the rear. The newer top decks have extra material around the hole and are stronger. Making sure that the ball joints are tightened down nice and securely will reduce the chances of failure there though. Theadlock. (edit: just read more carefully and realised that you've got a brand new car - you've almost certianly got the new decks) The front shock tower is also quite exposed to lots of punishment. In my experience, those are the parts that are most at risk on the B44. Your mileage may vary... ![]() Also, you will need to add some weight even to make the car legal - I just use coins. Should make up some "handling by HRH the Queen" stickers. ![]() Cheers, Ty |
#5
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I broke a couple of shock shafts and wing mounts when I had one but other than that it's pretty strong.
When the shaft breaks it will break where it joins the ball stud which renders the stud useless so I'd recommend getting some of them too.
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Lets Off Road! |
#6
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So far for me:
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Tony Mulligan DESC410R, DEX410, DEX210, Cream Extreme (the dog's b******s) www.srcc.co.uk |
#7
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front wishbones I have broken the most of without a doubt
closely followed by front shock shafts. done 1 rear too. then things I broke once were top deck, front bulkhead, rear arms, wing mounts, front shock tower. I seem to kill wheel nuts too so my wheels fall off all the time. replaced them a few times. |
#8
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id say you need around 80 gram adding if you dont use the brass tray. When you break the front shock shafts (and you will) replace with the silver steel ones as these only bend and allow you to finish the race and not spit out the spring and spring cup- which you will never find, as they always seem to fly out with the explosive force of a nuclear bomb!!
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#9
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#10
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Look what i did 2 weeks back!
![]() Its the only part ive broken on my B44 . Now replaced the shockeroonies with some Losi chaps. |
#11
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I have broken front hinge pin mounts but they only go if the hinge pin goes through the back of the wishbone if you get my drift, I would have some crown wheels in your box as well.
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#12
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3 front shock shafts
Numerous front bulk heads seem to snap the wee front lugs clean off One front arm. Everything else holding up just fine.
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Feedback: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32506 http://www.dropinnracing.com |
#13
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A solution I came up with for the front shock shafts was to get longer rear shock shafts (rc10t4), cut them to length and die cut larger 5-40 threads on the end.
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Radio Control Hobbies & Raceway 1258 South Main Street Waterbury, CT. 06706 www.rchr.biz |
#14
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I've broke the following:
1) Shock shafts (Lots mostly my fault but can't be helped as where they are but they do seem to be very brittle compared to other manufacturers.) 2) The lugs off the front top deck (My fault, replaced with modified FibreLyte top decks and they are mint.) 3) Front shock tower (Replaced with 4mm FibreLyte tower and had an extra mounting hole put on the inside so I could lean the shocks in more.) 4) Front driveshafts (The heavey duty one-way makes mince meat of them after a season, wears the cv joints and twists the driveshafts) 5) Crown gear (I go through a rear one each season, they just seem to wear out.) I used to break the front bulkhead but that was before I got the captive front wishbones. As for the weight I run about 100g in the back when using Intellect cells, it seems to do the trick. It's a really good car but it does have a few flaws where cheap materials are used where they should have used better stuff. They are great handling cars though, can't fault them for that. |
#15
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I've yet to break a shock shaft, but have carried across the shocks I ran on my BJ4 onto my B44. They use the B4 front shock shafts instead.. which are a tiny tiny bit shorter... I just unwind the shock bottom eyelet 1 complete turn.
The shocks have been used for two seasons... and no breaks! (you watch it snap next time out now!)
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- Associated B6.1 - - Yokomo YZ CAL3.1 - - JConcepts BJ4WE - - Frankenstein DEX410 - - Schumacher Cougar Classic - - Xray T4 2013- - Tamiya Monster Beetle Black Edition - oOple Trader Feedback |
#16
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I had a very big hit at worksop on sunday full chat off the start into a chair broken wishbone and shock top so not to bad after such a big hit.
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#17
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hi, i have the same problems with the front shock shaft (like most others to
![]() i can't understand why they brake?! i've booked some from losi, i hope they will be better...
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sorry, broken english... |
#18
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I keep loosing those sodding wing washers lol. and clips grrr.
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#19
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I have only ever broken wishbones and shock shafts as well, not too many though, 1 shaft and 3 wishbones in 2 years of racing the B44. I find the car generally bullet proof with breakages down to pure bad luck!
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Team Schumacher www.racing-cars.com Paint by www.customblitz.co.uk Feedback http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67178 |
#20
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big g, insert the r clips from the back and they wont come off anymore. I had the same problem, this sorts it
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