newbie question about motors

[wolf]

whats the diffence between
For example
15t single and a 15t x2 or double ?

[GhostlyRock]

15t single is wound with 1 piece of wire and the 15tx2 with 2 etc. More winds = more power, roughly speaking.

(now hiding behind the settee)

[pugs]

More winds = more power, roughly speaking.

(now hiding behind the settee)[/QUOTE]

not true mate, a 15x1 has more power but less rpm than a 15x2 and a 15x3 has less power than a 15x2 but has more rpm and so on......also the lower the turn the faster and more powerfull it is, I.E a 9x1 is a lot more powerfull and has a lot more rpm than a 15x1.

[rc boy]

or you could just go to brushless and save the hassle of skimming the motors and changing brushes lmao

[st1vo]

Yup, go brushless!

Less turns = less resistance = more current draw = more power (if your batteries and esc can handle it!)

Just a bit of info if you're a newbie:-

After 25 years of playing with RC stuff it finally dawned on me.

If you want a faster car and more enjoyment from the hobby the upgrades you need to make are (in order):

1. Charger
2. Batteries
3. Vehicle
4. Radio gear

and so on!!

I spent years with crap batteries and chargers! Change them first!!

[wolf]

i have the Associated RC10 B4RS RTR with stock setup
and was looking at upgrading the engine without changing the rest of the setup and was wandering what sort of motor to get and im using standard 3000mah nimh stickpacks
so what would you guys suggest ?

[st1vo]

See what's the fastest motor your esc will handle and get one of those!!

[JCJC]

Stick with the 17turn for a bit, if you start club racing you will need a selection of tires, springs, shock oils, pistons and bits of lead weight stuffed around the car.
Most setups used to run something like a 12double, now 6.5 or 7.5 brushless is common, but setup rules, right tires, shocks-springs-positions, weight and how you drive.

[j.m.]

I'd upgrade to LiPo first.

If you get a hot brushed motor, you'll have to buy a com lathe or find someone that will be able to cut your comms. This will need to be done every few runs.

If you can't find someone to cut your comms for you, then it's more worthwhile to go b-less as a comm lathes run at least $150...

[ashleyb4]

Look at a good quality 19t brushed motor most will be faster and more reliable than a cheap modified motor. Something like a peak dynastic, Orion Element, Checkpoint Money Motor.

A

[pugs]

I always liked the modified checkpoint's, sure the stock one's will be just as good.

[ian h]

Originally Posted by wolf

i have the Associated RC10 B4RS RTR with stock setup
and was looking at upgrading the engine without changing the rest of the setup and was wandering what sort of motor to get and im using standard 3000mah nimh stickpacks
so what would you guys suggest ?

Upgrading your cells to lipo is probably the best option. Car will deco be quicker and you'll get longer run times. If your plan is to race then you will find you could run a race meeting with just 1 pack. Cell management becomes very easy as lipos have no memory.

[wolf]

to change upto lipos would'nt i need to change my esc ?

[ian h]

Originally Posted by wolf

to change upto lipos would'nt i need to change my esc ?

You shouldn't have to. A lad at out club runs your setup with lipos with no problem. Your charger could be an issue though.

[wolf]

but on the ae site they say the rtr cars esc are not lipo compitable ?

[JCJC]

Lipo - its a battery, should be no problem for your esc & motors, you may/will need to change your battery connectors to suit, get a charger that will charge and balance lipo's (different charge profile to cells) and expect the car be much lighter - now you have to add more weight, but it can be added where it will help setup. Long term a good (approved) lipo and charger will save money.

[Lowie]

lipo's are VERY user-friendly ..
but have to be charged with lipo-specific-settings so you need a charger that has a lipo-function.
Secondly it is important that the tension on a Lipo-battery does not go below 2,9V per cel (or 3,0 or 3,3 V to be on the safe side).

Per cel, that means that in 1/10th, where we race with 7,4V lipo's, that 6,0 (or 6,6V) is the minimum-tension the battery can have.

Going below this tension, the chemicals inside the cel will change and the battery can become unstable.

A lipo going unstable can go into spontaneous fire, with a VERY hot flame so that it something you would like to prevent if possible

An ESC which is called lipo-compatible wil have a function that shuts the motor or throttle whenever it detects the Lipo-tension to be too low.
So, when the tension drops below 6 or 6,6V, depending on the ESC-settings, the car will stop.
Also, you have to know that generally speaking a lipo gives power until the end. The power-curve is very flat. It is only very near the end that the amps will drop.

Conclusion: a Lipo-compatible ESC is a safe thing to have.
But you can drive a lipo-battery with any normal ESC ... as long as you don't exceed the driving time.
If you notice a drop in performance, you have to stop immediately and recharge the lipo.
This is still not something you have to worry too much about. Modern Lipo's often have a capacity of more then 5000mA. With a 10 brushless motor, or, let's say, an 17T brushed, this will give you driving times of +20 minutes ... so pleeeenty of time.

I recently tested my X11 Predator (1/10th 4WD buggy) with a 10 brushless .. and drove 42 minutes until the lipo-cut-of kicked in.

A lipo-cutoff-device can also be bought as a stand-alone device. I know LRP has them.

hope this helps you