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  #1  
Old 11-11-2009
c0sie c0sie is offline
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Default Mardave - whats the difference?

Between...

V12 VRX
V12 HotRod
V12 HotRod Worlds Edition
V12 RS MiniStock

??

As a Mardave layman id appreciate any help
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Old 11-11-2009
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The vrx is the dogs b*******
http://mardaveonline.co.uk/rckits.htm
A general look on google will give you a good deal of info.
To race a mardave is back to basics,down to earth cheap fantastic fun racing. Parts are dirt cheap so not a big loss if you break a wishbone , last pair cost me less than £2
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Old 11-11-2009
c0sie c0sie is offline
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Is the VRX worth the extra cash?

Im certainly not out to race oval, im looking at trying to race at a local circuit club in the winter with a cheap car, hence the V12 interest

If they dont care for what I run then ill just slap a diff in a V12 and have a giggle

Is there a huge difference between the std V12 and the Worlds edition??
Thanks
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Old 11-11-2009
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no realy a standed hot rod kit will be fine just turn the a arms upside down and a few washers under them for a bit of castor, ture your rear tyres down to around 51mm ish and your fronts to around 47mm ish and your off check the mardave site for a set up page aswell
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Old 11-11-2009
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The VRX is loaded with all the latest hop ups and is a fast little car.
I only ran the standard v12 but it was a great car. Theres a chap called knighthawk on here who is running a diff pm him for info on how it handles, I,ve not seen one yet.
To me personally the vxr is a bit expensive but worth the cash, but I feel it is better for all drivers to race the same spec car then you get a much better feeling if you win a heat just on skill rather than having a better car. Mardaves are about fun and should stay that way.
Following the success of the V12 Worlds kit, Mardave Racing are pleased to release its successor.
The 2009 V12 VRX £89.99

Specification as follows:
  • New Silver Polymer technology wishbones
  • New Silver Thermal Polymer technology motor pod (for much better heat transfer)
  • New rear ride height adjusters
  • Teflon Ceramic sealed bearings
  • Spring tuning kit Soft/Med/Hard
  • Front camber strut brace
  • Decal By Nitel Graffix
  • Lexan Fiesta or Clio sport shell
  • Anodised chassis
  • fully adjustable mounts
  • Optional extra's Available
  • Motor Heat Sink & Plate
  • Alloy Servo Blocks
  • 5 Spoke Wheels
  • Speedmaster VRX Speedo
  • Shim Set
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Old 11-11-2009
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Cosie, the standard kit is fine mate, in my experiance the
"New Silver Thermal Polymer technology motor pod (for much better heat transfer)" is to brittle the black plastic is more forgiving
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Old 11-11-2009
c0sie c0sie is offline
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So much advice

Thanks all, its all helped

However I have been informed that the brushed G2 is shite and needs to go, but that kinda detracts from the idea of super cheap 'broke student' racing that I had in mind for me and Mrs c0sie.

Damn..cheap racing is not without its pitfalls!
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Old 11-11-2009
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From what I've heard the mardave brushless system isn't very good and the diff makes next to no difference.
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Old 11-11-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c0sie View Post
So much advice

Thanks all, its all helped

However I have been informed that the brushed G2 is shite and needs to go, but that kinda detracts from the idea of super cheap 'broke student' racing that I had in mind for me and Mrs c0sie.

Damn..cheap racing is not without its pitfalls!
I found the G2 to be a good fast motor for the money (about £8) but if you put com drops in it, it was buggered the brushes did,nt like it so we just added a little drop of wd40. The only must for me was a big front bumper from kamtec @£4-5 then it would hold its own in the demolition derby at the end of the final. The cheaper black ones broke too easy for me anyway.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bumper-Mardave...item2e96ab9a83
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2009
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stox217 stox217 is offline
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Right
Mardave motors are fine as long as its cleaned and not over geared or undergeard. (Plese no com drops)
I run a worlds baseplate but everything else is off the old std v12 black nylon.
I have put a gold axel from mardave £3.95 that removes all the slop out the rear end.
I have fitted a mardave/manic bumper too.
also a kamtec front brace on the kingpins so it stiffens up the front end.
Soon to go in is a 2nd hand sphere tc spec speedo for some more speed and setting tunes. But i used to fly with a 2nd hand novak xrs in.
Also i have a few more tricks but pictures will be required to aid in explaning them.
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  #11  
Old 12-11-2009
steelie600 steelie600 is offline
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Just slap a 6.5 brushless in there get the diff and rebuild it properly glueing the ball plates to their respective bits (axle and out drive) grease balls thouroughly. 16t pinion 50t spur. 9650 servo, kimbrough servo saver (A defo must have) pink fronts and magenta rears and go and embarrass the 12ths!!! Great fun!!
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  #12  
Old 13-11-2009
simond001 simond001 is offline
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G2 motor is fine. I used one for curcuit racing last winter in a mardave with 2s lipo and diff.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7LUt0QPR68 to see how they go

Personally i would stick with the advise above regarding the silver motor pod and wishbones.

Pop a 1mm washer under the ball pivot, turn wishbones upside down and add camber, add a brace across the king pins to hold them in and strengthen, round tyre edges etc..

I also used a long grub screw which i put between the centre pin and springs on the rear of the motor pod. This allowed me to adjust the ride hieght at the rear of the car to keep the chassis flat.

To protect your lipo i would put a fibreglass/cf plate acrodd the chassis and use the cobra battery mount.
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