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#1
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Could someone please explain or post a link to a post / explaination, of the correct way to fill these shocks with oil as i am having trouble with getting the air out and bleeding them properly.
I`ve built them as per instructions Remove all air from underneath piston I fill the oil too the top of the cylinder Then screw the cap on (there is no rubber cap with this kit , which you would normally seat on the top of the cylinder pushing the excess oil out) Once built this way when i do the damping motion the shaft is only compressing half way up the cylinder, telling me that theres air inside. What am i doing wrong , it`s twisting my melon man! Thanks Andy ![]()
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#2
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They are supposed to have air in them (they are aeration shocks).
If you look at the instructions carefully it shows you should not fill the oil to the top but actually leave about a 1mm gap. James |
#3
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Build like you've already done, oil to the top, put the cap on loosely, push the shaft in all the way slowly or 2-3mm from full in (to the start of the thread / ball cup). With the shaft pushed in (all the way, or 2-3mm - depends how you like it) screw the cap on the rest of the way.
You can use the bleed screw to do the same thing if needed and if you've 'activated' the screw - but the cap is just as good really. There is supposed to be air in there - you've got too much oil if you can't push the shaft in.
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If your PM doesn't at first succeed - try, try again. I'll reply in the end, honest. ![]() Last edited by jimmy; 02-10-2009 at 01:59 PM. |
#4
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Ok i`ll give this a whirl tonight
Cheers Jimmy
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#5
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![]() Quote:
Fill so the edges are just at the bevelled edge of the cylinder, but with a concave surface to the oil. Screw the cap on and this gives you the right amount of oil (as near as dammit). A lot easier than bleeding. As said above, you need that squeak of air in there for them to work (just the tiniest squeak mind you). |
#6
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the rods should push out the same amount, and there should be no 'tightenning' on the damping, as you push the shaft in.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#7
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Thanks for the advice chaps
![]() Just done the front one`s and they work nice! Don`t really know where i was going wrong but sorted! Andy
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#8
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![]() Quote:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/42139ml.pdf 501X and 511 manuals have always shown and stated to pull the shock shaft out, then install the cap. Associated B4/T4 manuals want you to push the shock shaft in most of the way and install the shock cap. I've obeyed the manuals of both manufacturers over the years. Any differences do you think?
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Tamiya America - Trakpower - 92Zero Designs |
#9
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check out this link how Jilles Groskamp rebuilds his shocks...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sliCxsIZ3v4
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ME & MY OWN WALLET RACING! |
#10
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Andy
use jimmys method pal works best Shafts should pop out by about 5mm when pushed right in I believe just add or remove a little oil to get both the same I have motor cleaner ready to clean up with See you tomorrow pal |
#11
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Yeah i used Jimmys method and there super slick now!
Cheers Shank`s mate ![]()
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