lrp shark ft problems

[paul booth]

hi, i have two lrp sharks both with novak mongoose 10.5 systems inolabs metalgear digital servos, trakpower 1600mah 2s lipos, they keep blowing up i bought the second shark as a spare they were both used for racing but im just using them as bashers justnow and put smaller pinions on them but these wee things must do about 40 or so, hope somebody can help me miby they need a smaller spur or something

[jim76]

what pinion you running? should be on a 12 depending on track. the mongooses are a bit hit and miss, the motor is fine but a lot of people run other speedos

[steve46]

Originally Posted by paul booth

hi, i have two lrp sharks both with novak mongoose 10.5 systems inolabs metalgear digital servos, trakpower 1600mah 2s lipos, they keep blowing up i bought the second shark as a spare they were both used for racing but im just using them as bashers justnow and put smaller pinions on them but these wee things must do about 40 or so, hope somebody can help me miby they need a smaller spur or something

Hi Paul

What keeps blowing up?.....if it's the speedo there have been a few novak mongoose esc that I have seen blow up....I run a shark and most of us now use the Tekin RS speedo's .....these small 1/18th scale buggies seem to be working on the limit and I don't think the mongoose can cope with the heat.

May be worth investing in a Tekin.

[jim76]

the tekin is very pricey though. i run a bog standard nosram matrix without fan. fits fine on the top deck and copes easy with the 10.5

[paul booth]

thanks for the help its a 12 tooth pinion i work at tayracers model shop so can send stuff back very easily. they even have a square cut in the shell for fan they werent too bad when my workmates owned the cars as they raced them in a barn in wintertime series at csor. i usually boot them up and down carparks and they seem to blow up miby i should just use them on the track for 5 mins at a time and not till the lipo cutoff comes on

[jim76]

yeah, if you are bashing the cars for 15 mins (a 1600 lipo can easily last this under race conditions!) then they will probably get a bit hot and strained. shorter burstws with cool down will help. Or a more reliable ESC

[paul booth]

Originally Posted by jim76

yeah, if you are bashing the cars for 15 mins (a 1600 lipo can easily last this under race conditions!) then they will probably get a bit hot and strained. shorter burstws with cool down will help. Or a more reliable ESC

cheers thats brillant cant wait to get my speedos back now

[Radish]

You could put a 49t spur in with an 11t pinion which may help keep the speedo and motor a bit cooler. I've also cut a hole under the motor to get some cooling air onto the it. Check the setup on the Mongoose to see if you've got any drag brakes on as that can heat them up too. There have been quite a few problems with the Mongoose but they are still popular.

[jim76]

yeah good point about the chassis cut out Richard, i forgot that one. Break out the dremel if yours hasn't been done yet Paul. And also cut out an air scoop in the shell if you have one.
I also notice you are running the larger kit rubber tyres for bashing, so Richards advice on the shorter gearing is spot on. Must club racers use the smaller diameter foams, hence the bigger pinion.

[Body Paint]

10/49 for a tight track, 11/49 for a open track. 12/45 on a 10.5 with a mongoose speedo for 15 minutes is a ticking bomb You may get away with 12/45 on very small foams but with those big kit tyres on she's gonna blow.

Some have started to use the LRP SXX comp speedo which seems to be working very well indeed

[paul booth]

yes i dont think i can get a refund from cml i will find out tomorrow but whats the best brushless i can buy? probs sensored i would be after as its a bit smoother but not too bothered if i cant get a refund what about this system?

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml...tId=0000004126

[mrspeedy]

Get a Tekin Rs (not pro) and run the Novak motor with it ......

Fit and forget

[paul booth]

i dont think i can get a refund on the novak though which isnt very good

[Body Paint]

The only sensored motor available is the Novak. IMHO sensorless is the best way to go with micro and as with most things, you pay for what you get.

If money is no object then get a Novak 13.5 and a LRP SXX speedo. If you gear it correctly you will have no troubles with it. I really think that you had yours overgeared which will have undoubtably caused it's premeture failure.

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by Body Paint

IMHO sensorless is the best way to go with micro

I think you mean sensored there Craig!

[paul booth]

where do i get a 49 tooth spur gear for the shark? thankyou very much guys i will get my novak back and get the gearing sorted

[c0sie]

Paul,

If you are looking for an alternative ESC for your Mongoose have a look at the LRP SPX (80400). I have one of these, coupled to a 10.5 and would advise starting around 11/45 or 11/49.

If after 5 minutes it reaches over 60'c on the motor then you need to look at cooling and fans!

[paul booth]

thing is i dont know where to get a 49tooth spur

[c0sie]

They are made by a company called Atomic and comes as a pack of 3 spur gears (41, 45 and 49).

http://www.rcmodelimports.co.uk/com/...oducts_id=1943

RC Model Imports are good

[paul booth]

yeah my mate told me about them a had the website stored in my notes on my phone but thought i would check if yous got them from spire models as we order from them every monday at tayracers just would save me having to make an account with rc model imports cheers