Kyosho zx5 rear driveshafts

[mjtkyosho]

i have got trouble with rear uj driveshafts popping out (65.5mm)the manual says they are the right length but gone back to 70mm dogbones but have now lost one using 220 rear arms with 3 hole hubs any advise or does any one know if another manufactures are a bit longer and will fit

[Fabs]

What car ?

In my FS I've reverted to what I believe are 70mm ones as they were coming close to popping out.

[Fabs]

double post ??

[mjtkyosho]

i think its a sp version not sure bought 2nd hand but has all upgraded necessary parts on it

[madmax]

i has a similar problem with my sp, to solve the problem i reduced the droop of the car and it solved it. and the car felf more stable also

[RogerM]

Never even come close to the point a driveshaft could dislocate ... you guys must be running huge droop for that to happen!

[erkan]

Or the wrong A-arms.. Now i dont have wich A-arm is longer, maybe RogerM knows?

But the point is, on my RB5 i ran the rear-mid-conversion but with old A-arms cause i couldnt get any more new ones, anyway, the A-arms from the conversion kit was too long, they bind when at full suspension travel so i had to change those to the old ones too..

Maybe you guys have done a similar mixup but with short shafts and long arms?

[RogerM]

I'm not sure I understand the above post, sorry.

On the RB5 if you run the wider LA243 rear arms you need to run the longer driveshafts (the back ones that were options for the original kit ZX5), use silver driveshafts with the stock RB5 ZX5SP/FS wishbones on the RB5.

On the ZX5SP/FS use the kit driveshafts with the kit wishbones, there is no need to change.
(Please remember that the SP and FS have different rear shafts because the inner hinge pins are spaced differently .... FS uses longer silver driveshafts from the RB5 as it has the 2mm wider hinge pin spacing ..... SP uses the black shafts and the narrower spacing ........ hopefully that hasn't confused anybody).

[SimonW]

Both myself and my brother-in-law have had driveshaft issues similar to this and 1 thing i noticed was that when using proline axles, you have to use 3 shims on the inside to space the driveshaft and with kyosho hexs' you only use 1 shim, so if the suspension on both cars are the same like Bros' and mine then you'll notice as i did that the proline axled car can have a little more droop as the shaft is further in to start with by virtue of the extra shims. My SP car is set-up with the law rear end, long silver shock bodies, 54mm shafts (no limiters) proline axles and i run middle tower and inside on the arm this gives massive droop and the shafts are in JUST enough to not fall out.

HTH SimonW

[RogerM]

Simon, intereting combination of bit your running there. May I ask why you went that way?