TRF501X Tips

[Patpop01]

Hi,

I am struggling to get following items setup correctly.

- Slipper : Are there any tips on how to determine when it is to thight/loose ? How to setup the slipper up correctly ?
- Diffs : How thight do you have to set the diffs ? Any tips when building them ?
- Pinion : I have changed my pinion several times, from 14T to 18T running a 5.5 LRP X11, but there is no noticable change in temp. How can I determine the correct pinion to use and how do you guys keep your engines cool enough ?

I suppose these are questions many people wonder about, so I thought why not start a theath, that can be used as a reference.

Thanks.

[3975dave]

Which pulley and spur are you running for the gearing??

[Patpop01]

The standard 501X WE spur and pulley. Hope this helps.

[3975dave]

I ran a Nosram equivalent 6.5 yesterday in my Durga on a 20t pinion with no worries. That gave a final ratio of 9.328 with kit 91t spur. The 501we from the chart has a 96t spur so the nearest ratio and pinion would be 9.371 on a 21 pinion.

Running a 5.5 I would start on a 20t pinion and keep an eye on the temp.
Here is a link to the chart. Hope it makes sense.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/cars/...-gearchart.pdf

[Patpop01]

Thanks Dave,

I'll try you suggestion on the pinion. I was kinda confused since last time I asked this question I was doubting which one to use.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19085. DaveG28 said he started out on a 15T and finally got to a 17T.

Do you use any kind of heatsink on your motor ? Or have the bottom undertray cutout near the engine ?

I heard from a guy at my club your should set up the slipper by placing a wrench key in the pinion screw and rotate both front wheels. This results in the key getting stuck against the aluminium. You should then adjust the slipper till it just doesn't slip when further rotating the front wheels. Does this make any sense, or is there another way to set the slipper ?

Regards.

[Balders]

Adjusting the slipper on the 501 should be as simple as tightening or loosening the nut on the layshaft on the spring side. tighter the nut the less the slip and vice versa.

I've never heard of adjusting a slipper by putting a driver in the grub screw of the pinion and rotating the wheels. Can't see that doing anything other than possibly testing the front or rear diff to see if it will slip... I'd ignore that method if I were you mate.

[3975dave]

A heatsink will certainly help if you have heat issues! Is it a tight or open track? That will make a difference to the gearing you can run. Also from your last post in that thread you mention that you run the speedo on setting 5 instead of 1-3. If 5 is giving more power this will generate more heat.

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by Patpop01

Thanks Dave,

I'll try you suggestion on the pinion. I was kinda confused since last time I asked this question I was doubting which one to use.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19085. DaveG28 said he started out on a 15T and finally got to a 17T.

Do you use any kind of heatsink on your motor ? Or have the bottom undertray cutout near the engine ?

I heard from a guy at my club your should set up the slipper by placing a wrench key in the pinion screw and rotate both front wheels. This results in the key getting stuck against the aluminium. You should then adjust the slipper till it just doesn't slip when further rotating the front wheels. Does this make any sense, or is there another way to set the slipper ?

Regards.

I'm now running 17/87 gearing on a 5.5 by the way!

[3975dave]

That seems pretty close so give it a go. Just keep an eye on it till your sure.

As for your diff and slipper settings its just a case of feel. Set the diff first with the slipper tight and then back of until it gives enough slip for you. Dont run the slipper to loose though as you cause melting issues with the pads.

[WHITTLER555]

I am running an X11 5.5 with a Sphere speedo and lipo. I run a 18 tooth pinion with a 96 tooth spur gear and it is plenty quick enough.

[Patpop01]

2 Balders : <Adjusting the slipper on the 501 should be as simple as tightening or loosening the nut on the layshaft on the spring side. tighter the nut the less the slip and vice versa.> It should be a way to test the slippage in the slipper, not a way to tighten or loosen it Of course that is done with the nut loool

2 3957dave : It is a technical astro turf track. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mq7vL...eature=related I had already set the power profile on the speedo back to 2, since my last post.
Is there a way to determine if a diff is thight enough ?

2 daveg28 : I'll use a pinion then that will bring the ratio as close as possible to 10:1. I am a bit confused. Is it better to go slightly over the ideal 10:1 or better under ?

Thanks once more.

[MotoRev]

Originally Posted by WHITTLER555

I am running an X11 5.5 with a Sphere speedo and lipo. I run a 18 tooth pinion with a 96 tooth spur gear and it is plenty quick enough.

What Lipo's are you running? I used that combo at the weekend and it thermalled after four mins and canned my Lipo's

[Hairy Spider]

Originally Posted by 3975dave

The 501we from the chart has a 96t spur

Standard worlds spur is 91T. Original 501 was 96T.

[knighthawk]

For the diff's,

Tighten the screw right up then back off 1/4 turn

Slipper,

From a standing start, full acceleration, it should slip for approx 1meter



I've been setting cars up with this method for years and haven't had diff's melt or slipper pads burn.

This is only my opinion though and different motors / track conditions etc effect the slipper, this should always be setup at the track. 9 times out of 10 the diff's shouldn't have to be touched once built

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by Patpop01

2 Balders : <Adjusting the slipper on the 501 should be as simple as tightening or loosening the nut on the layshaft on the spring side. tighter the nut the less the slip and vice versa.> It should be a way to test the slippage in the slipper, not a way to tighten or loosen it Of course that is done with the nut loool

2 3957dave : It is a technical astro turf track. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mq7vL...eature=related I had already set the power profile on the speedo back to 2, since my last post.
Is there a way to determine if a diff is thight enough ?

2 daveg28 : I'll use a pinion then that will bring the ratio as close as possible to 10:1. I am a bit confused. Is it better to go slightly over the ideal 10:1 or better under ?

Thanks once more.

I would always err on higher, so greater than 10:1. I'm also using an x12 which I think likes lower gearing than the x11. Are you having temp problems? Mine always run hot, but I find the 5.5 lrp's pretty flexible on gearing in as far as still being fine speed wise at high gearing!

[shanks]

Originally Posted by Patpop01

Hi,

I am struggling to get following items setup correctly.

- Slipper : Are there any tips on how to determine when it is to thight/loose ? How to setup the slipper up correctly ?
- Diffs : How thight do you have to set the diffs ? Any tips when building them ?
- Pinion : I have changed my pinion several times, from 14T to 18T running a 5.5 LRP X11, but there is no noticable change in temp. How can I determine the correct pinion to use and how do you guys keep your engines cool enough ?

I suppose these are questions many people wonder about, so I thought why not start a theath, that can be used as a reference.

Thanks.

Hi

Slipper too tight - under full accelaretion from a standstill it will not slip - a locked slipper like this usually means you will loose the back end coming out of bends under full power - a slipper absorbs power so its not so abrupt (exaclty same principal as a clutch on a real car - without one you would just stall the engine)....too loose it will slip like mad - car wont accelerate too well - same as a real car with a knackered clutch!



Slippler should slip for a metre under full acceleration from a standstill on a high grip surface - adjust it until it does.

To test whether diff is tight enough (tight enough means slipper slips before diff) - lock all wheels by putting car on the ground - turn the spur gear with you finger (may have to press hard) it will slip on the shaft..(between the pads).

If it dosnet slip on the shaft i.e. you are turning spur and the shaft- then the diff must be slipping so tighten a little...(assumming slipper is not locked totally)

Read the gearing chart for your motor (get it off web-site if you dont have) it will give you a final drive ratio.

Then using a 501x gear chart - available on here you can see which pinion to use...every motor requires different gearing

ps LRP's in mine and my friends experience run very hot....

[WHITTLER555]

Originally Posted by MotoRev

What Lipo's are you running? I used that combo at the weekend and it thermalled after four mins and canned my Lipo's

Hello, I have run that set up at all the Nationals last year with NIHM's and I have just completed the first National at Talywain using the same set up and I swapped to Demon saddle pack 4200mah 35C lipo's. I also only have a bonded rotor in the 5.5.

How slack do you run the belts? I used to have heat problems until I slackened the belts right off, however I have it set so that they do not skip. This has really freed up the drivetrain and so far no problems.

I run the car with both vents cut out of the body and use an undertray.

I would really like one of those Aszerashi bodies but I can't find anyone who sells them?

If you race in the NW or NE come and find me and I will take a look at your car.

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by WHITTLER555

Hello, I have run that set up at all the Nationals last year with NIHM's and I have just completed the first National at Talywain using the same set up and I swapped to Demon saddle pack 4200mah 35C lipo's. I also only have a bonded rotor in the 5.5.

How slack do you run the belts? I used to have heat problems until I slackened the belts right off, however I have it set so that they do not skip. This has really freed up the drivetrain and so far no problems.

I run the car with both vents cut out of the body and use an undertray.

I would really like one of those Aszerashi bodies but I can't find anyone who sells them?

If you race in the NW or NE come and find me and I will take a look at your car.

Think rc direct may have those shells in again now?

[chokoboy]

Originally Posted by DaveG28

Think rc direct may have those shells in again now?

Or u can order them directly from www.team-azarashi.com super fast shipping and service!

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by chokoboy

Or u can order them directly from www.team-azarashi.com super fast shipping and service!

I don't think they ship to the UK though, they can't as they have distributors (DMS and RC-Direct if my memory serves), can check on their eBay site to be sure though!