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#1
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I was bored tonight so i thought i would make my self a custom draglink. I wasnt going to post anything but then i thought wow this is cool and i wanted to do a mini review like jimmy. hehe
![]() So here we go: What you will need: Two short ball cups i used some i had laying around as these are relativly short but you can use longer ones and cut them down. You will need some m3 threaded bar. Or a old turnbuckle. But i used threaded bar. Tools: Caliper pliers dremel a calculator if you can add or subtract. Ok you will need to check yor ball cups fit on the losi ball studs: ![]() Yes Next you will need to measure the standard draglink which measures 44mm ![]() This is where a digital cliper comes in handy and the calculator: You need to measurethe length of yourball cups the ones i used measred 16mm So you subtract the size of your ball cups from the lngth of the standard draglink. Mine worked like this: Gap= 44mm-(16mm x 2) which equals 12mm You will now need to wind one end of the threaded bar into one of the ball cups then mark it where it is fully in. Take the threaded bar out and measure how long this is. Mine was 9mm so calculators at the ready: length of threaded bar=(9x2)+7mm which equals:25mm I used 7mm as this was the gap i would leave betweek the two ball cups as shown in the image below: ![]() So you now need to cut your threaded bar to 25mm in length or the length of your choice calcualted by using the simple formula above. i sujest you use a dremel for this but a hack saw will work. Now you have all your parts: ![]() Now you just need to put all the parts together ans ajust to the correct sizr i did mine to 41mm as i needed mine 44mm shorter than the standard one: ![]() Then simply install and ajust your turnbuckles as required to get your toe in correct. ![]() Hope you dont mind this jimmy i just thought it would make it interesting by putting it on a forum like a little guide instead of just making it and putting it on. Also i love the way you do your reviews and articles. And wanted to do something similar. A |
#2
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Also safelty notice if you are a child ask your mum or dad to help you with the dremeling.
A |
#4
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Also i must apolligise for my awfull spelling and also there should be 6 pictures as at first one of them didnt loads of me so i had to refresh a few times to get it to load.
And thanks jimmy glad you dont mine. A |
#5
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Cool guide ash! Very intrestign to read!
Is it much stronger then the original one? ? Kev |
#6
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Out of interest, who's set-up did you put on your XX4 that had a custom draglink?
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#7
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I think it is tom cockeril's or tom cockil im not sure it was tom someone i found it in one of the past posts on here.
Do you have a good inddor setup phil you wouldnt mind sharing ![]() A |
#8
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Haven't really run mine much indoors, but might have a better answer after the SuperCup this weekend.
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#9
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Same here hopefully i may have abtter idea after dudley this weekend.
![]() Does anyone think people may be interested in buying these but proper ones using titanium turnbuckles and not a bodge. Proper shiny silver ones. Unlike mine. A |
#10
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Hi Ash
I have being running this set-up indoors http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...6&postcount=19 I have since gone back to the standard drag link. The other was something Chris Doughty used a couple of times so I tried it to see what the difference was. The link I used was actually a proper moulded Losi item that I think is from the XX steering parts. If it is a high grip indoor track then i would go to Green or even Blue front springs depending on grip levels. Any other questions just ask. What carbon parts were you thinking of making up? |
#11
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Yup thats the one.
Oh well i enjoyed making my custom draglink ![]() The carbon parts i was thinking of making was just a rear shock tower brace. But the carbon fibre id more exspensive than he part so i may as well get a proper one. But i have been looking at titanium turnbuckles that would work well as an ajustable draglink instead of the normal moulded one that could be used at 44mm long. Like the normal link butmight be a bit stronger. As looking at this moulded one its a bit bendy i know its nice in a bump so you dont break anything but ill see. A |
#12
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I do have a question how the hell do you get the front stub axle off the front UJ?
I dont want to puut at it to hard. And i dont want to break anything A |
#13
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For the Carbon Shock Tower braces you would be much better off running a front one instead of a rear if you are only going to run one. However, Fibrelyte do both the front and rear braces for about £15 I think. I was running the front one till I broke it.
Regarding the drag link I have experienced no problems with the standard one. |
#14
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Have you got a like the the fibre light one i know DC racing do the rear for 9 quid but i didnt know ther was a front well. aslong as the stock draglink holds up that cool it just looks a little thin in places.
A |
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