B4 factory

[bigfella0875]

Hallo all


I have just got a Factory team B4 kit . Iam going to put a 6.5 orion brushless and Lipo in the car when I build the kit up is there any things that I need to know when building and running the B4 as Iam new to the 2wd seen .



Bf

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Hi bigfella,
Gearing wise - presuming it's a sintered rotor - go for 22/78 or 23/81
Setup wise, 5 or 10g lead weights in the corner pods of the chassis (front and rear), weight underneath the rear shock tower - approx 28g or run the Ghea brass bulkheads
5-10g lead in the front nose can help - or again, run a brass front bulkhead and since you're running Lipo, a thin slab of lead under the battery (approx 110g) will help.
In all, up weight will be approx 1525g.

a Jconcepts front wing can help flying a little nose down and a K-factory front shock tower is a must if you hit things hard like me

Suspension wise - 30 deg caster blocks (optional) on the front and springing damping is up to you.

For over here on high grip astro, the blue front springs with silver rears are a safe bet (35Wt front / 30wt rear) or drop 5wt and a spring grade possibly since the lipo will be a bit lighter than nimhs or if you want to help generate more grip.

Can't think of too much more to say - you won't go too far wrong - the weight in the chassis corner pods and behind the rear shock tower really help.

HTH

[bigfella0875]

Thanks for the info I will try that were is best place for spares and the K-factory front towers







Bf

[Mike Hudson]

dms-racing, m-k-racing, pbm, microtech racing all very respaectable model shops kfactory tower dms will most likely have although there not really necessary, i've only managed to break one stock front b4 tower in over 3 years of using them and given them some good abuse kfactory towers are a nice piece of bling though

[Medders]

Not sure about the front shock tower, I don't think they break too often. If your gonna upgrade anything I'd start by replacing the plastic front bulk head which split very easily.

Apart from that just follow the instructions when building, they are nice and simple

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by Medders

Not sure about the front shock tower, I don't think they break too often.

LOL - you're clearly not trying hard enough

I've even managed to break a K factory front tower

It could be the Beast of Beckenham that keeps claiming them though

Joking apart - would agree that they're not strictly necessary - though I have been through 2 or 3 of the standard ones. They do look nice though.

[reg]

i would add that the right tyres are a must,and stiffer rear springs,the only thing i changed from kit was the front tyres and my car was lifting the inside wheels on fast cornering and also just swopping ends,i got schummacker mini pins all round and stiffer rear springs and holy s**t this thing is on rails,also the RPM heavy duty ball cups
enjoy

[Medders]

[quote=Medders;225822]Not sure about the front shock tower, I don't think they break too often.



I broke a front shock tower today

[mikeyscott]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

Hi bigfella,
Gearing wise - presuming it's a sintered rotor - go for 22/78 or 23/81
Setup wise, 5 or 10g lead weights in the corner pods of the chassis (front and rear), weight underneath the rear shock tower - approx 28g or run the Ghea brass bulkheads
5-10g lead in the front nose can help - or again, run a brass front bulkhead and since you're running Lipo, a thin slab of lead under the battery (approx 110g) will help.
In all, up weight will be approx 1525g.

a Jconcepts front wing can help flying a little nose down and a K-factory front shock tower is a must if you hit things hard like me

Suspension wise - 30 deg caster blocks (optional) on the front and springing damping is up to you.

For over here on high grip astro, the blue front springs with silver rears are a safe bet (35Wt front / 30wt rear) or drop 5wt and a spring grade possibly since the lipo will be a bit lighter than nimhs or if you want to help generate more grip.

Can't think of too much more to say - you won't go too far wrong - the weight in the chassis corner pods and behind the rear shock tower really help.

HTH

I've been suffering grip role with this set-up running yellow staggered and yellow mini spikes. Not sure if mini pins should go on the rear etc.